Ancient Bee-Line chassis questions

[scarysharkface]

A friend gifted me the chassis from a mid-60's Bee-Line travel trailer.

I'd like to rehab it, build a small box for two people to sleep inside (and some storage) and be able to haul a pair of dirt bikes (Suzuki DR350 motorcycles, to be exact, at about 260 pounds each) and pull it behind my Jeep.

I have so many questions that I don't really know where to start, so here are some pictures from the ride home...





I am concerned about this hitch, as I don't see any facility for locking it..



I know that I need to pull the hubs and replace the bearings and seals.



I'm guessing I'll be able to use the axle and hopefully the springs as well.

Initial thoughts are to deck it with, well, deck material, and build the box in the middle with storage between the wheels and a flat "bed" over that (extending over the wheels as well). Motorcycles would go up front and behind, for balance.

If it's worth tackling, then let me know that and offer suggestions for doing so on a tight budget. If it's just a bad idea, then I would like to know that before I sink a bunch of hard-to-come-by time and harder-to-come-by money into it.

I welcome all suggestions.

Thanks!

John

edited to add dimensions: 6' 8-1/2" W x 8' 8-1/2" L not including tongue or bumper..

[48Rob]

Hi John,

Sounds like a good idea...balance the weight of the bikes front and rear...

Looking at the picture, my first thoughts are is the frame long enough to carry two bikes and a sleeping area, and is the axle far enough back to carry the rear load.

The next thought then would be is the frame strong enough (in dimension) to carry the bikes, and is it structurally sound enough (rust?)

After that is the cost comparison between spending money to rehab what you have, or have a custom frame built.

Nice drop axle by the way!

Rob

[scarysharkface]

The rust is only surface-deep in most places, believe it or not. I'll wire-wheel it and paint over with Rust Reformer just to be sure it doesn't get any worse.

I re-packed the wheel bearings tonight (they appear to be in excellent condition), and did some test-positioning with the tape measure and some scrap lumber (to lay on and such). Having done that, I think the size is just about perfect for what I'm considering *if* I can keep it simple.

The frame is light, but with decking (5/4" treated deck material or something else?) I anticipate it will be plenty stiff and robust (the decking will distribute forces and prevent the frame cross-pieces from twisting at the ends). I picture that I will also run treated lumber around the perimeter of the frame, bolted into the cross-pieces. Would that be recommended or appropriate? Would that make it too heavy?

Speaking of which, my one concern with the running gear is whether or not the springs will be right for the load. I don't think what I'm planning will be that much more weight than what they were spec'd to carry, unless I go overboard with the decking and box.

I'm not a big fan of the drop axle, since I'll be pulling it with the slightly-raised and off-road prone Jeep, but then again it does make for easier everything else. I think I just need to get my brain around it first. I do like the idea of not having to buy an axle or kill myself getting the bikes on/off.

Does it really look like it's not going to be enough trailer to do this?

Thanks, again, for the feedback.

John

[scarysharkface]

Not a very bright picture, but this is the setup I've been using with one bike and just me sleeping in the back of the Jeep. This was in Big Bend a couple of nights after Christmas 2009...



John

[48Rob]

John,

Nice star picture!

The first step I'd take is to determine how much a Bee line trailer of your vintage weighed, so you can determine the engineered capacity of the axle, springs, and frame.

Andrew and others here are very good with calculations regarding weight, and re-engineering things, perhaps they can help also.

5/4 seems overkill for the deck, plywood in my opinion would provide more rigidity to the frame than individually fastened deck boards?

Longer shakles can increase lift by an inch or two.

Rob

[RonS]

The drop axle, if of suitable strength, can be placed on top of the spring packs instead of the bottom where they are now for several inches of lift.
Handling may change...
You may also need to install longer shackles to maintain proper clearance between the axle and frame; determined by the spring travel.

Rob

Huh? What am I missing here? Looking at it, it seems to me that putting the axle over the springs would LOWER the trailer body even more.....

[Shadow Catcher]

From experience in the rust belt/North Coast rust reformer only sort of works, and not for long. Your best bet is to get it sand blasted down to white metal and then to use something like Zero Rust to kill what rust might be hiding. With the Sonett I did do the wire brush (big one on a 7" grinder wearing a gas mask) and then used Zero Rust, seems to be working so far but took a LOT of time.
This is one of those cases where the cost may balance out a new frame designed the way you want for off road.

[scarysharkface]

Looks like the original configuration weighed just under 1800 pounds, based upon using the google to find someone who's looking for a shipper for one. I would guess the frame and running gear I've got weighs less than 400 pounds, which gives me a reasonable amount (<~1400 lbs.) to work with.

I did a scan of composite materials, and it doesn't appear that's a good choice for this.

Thoughts?

John

[48Rob]

Ron,

You're right, I'm wrong.

I shouldn't have been typing this morning while in a hurry to get to work...
My bad...


Longer shackles will increase the lift slightly.

Rob

[scarysharkface]

I realize I'm putting the cart, so to speak, before the horse, so to speak, but I'll ask anyway.

After I've done the things to make the frame viable and rust-free, should I use treated wood decking or will I be better off with regular construction-grade wood materials with heavy sealer on top and that tar fence-paint on the bottom?

For where the motorcycles will go, I would like to bolt U-channels to the frame. I'm guessing I'll still need decking to stiffen the frame (complete the "box" structure of the frame), but that it can be 1/2"?

For habitable space, it sounds like 2x4's ripped in half and installed on-side (1-1/2") is the answer. I think having no complex curves and skinning it with 1/4" or 3/8" cedar siding (structural in this case) might be the simple/easy/difficult-to-completely-screw-up way to go (sorry, teardroppers).

I've got lots more thoughts going through my head, but my lovely wife tells me it's time to fetch a child from Scouts and will have to post later..

Thanks for the feedback and wisdom. Please keep it coming.

John

[starleen2]

If you haven't done it by now - repack the wheel bearing so you'll when the last time they were done!

[scarysharkface]

If you haven't done it by now - repack the wheel bearing so you'll when the last time they were done!

Done.

Rims, btw, are 13" on 4 bolts and will be replaced. I hope it's a common size.

John

[scarysharkface]

Today I spent some quality time with a wire wheel.

Before:



After:



Parts aren't so shiny, but I've done as much as I can with the wire wheel. Hosed most of it down with Rust Reformer (it's what I've got) to at least keep things from deteriorating (it's sitting outside) until I can make more progress. It is quite a morale boost to see it not all covered with dirt and rust.

John

[48Rob]

Sure looks a lot better!

Rob

[bc toys]

If it where me I would turn over the drop axle and build a ramp on back door. Get new hitch a swival style and add a 3/4 " plywood floor build a foldable bed up front and storage over and behind wheelwells for bike axcesserys and camping stuff can go under bed. thats my .02$