Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

[Larry C]

Ultralight Stripper Build Journal:

My plan is a light as possible 5X8 Teardrop. I have chosen Mike's Ultralight profile as the foundation of my build. 500-600# is my goal. I want a tear that can be towed by a small car/truck.
I will use techniques I know. I have built several strip kayaks. I am comfortable with fiberglass/epoxy. So.... I will build a wood strip sided Ultralight, encapsulated in fiberglass/epoxy. However, I will not strip the top. I will use either silver colored fiberglass or colored carbon/kevlar cloth over 1/8" Plywood. spartan galley and cabin.

As of 3/09/10:

THE DESIGN. THANKS, MIKE!


PROFILE LAYOUT ON MASONITE. BRADS AT xy POINTS. BATTEN CLAMPED TO BRADS. WORKED GREAT FOR PROFILE LAYOUT..





PROFILE LAMINATIONS GLUED (BOTH SIDES SHOWN ON TOP OF EACH OTHER)


20 YEAR OLD PRESSURE TREATED PICNIC TABLE LUMBER


RECYCLED INTO FLOOR LUMBER. PICTURE ALSO SHOWS SOME STRIPS FOR SIDE WALLS, AND FIRST HATCH FORM CUT FROM DISCARDED PLYWOOD (10 PLY) HOSE REEL.


THIS IS MY PLANNED FRAME. IT'S ANDREW'S PICO LIGHT REDRAWN FOR A 5X8 WITH 12" WHEELS AND MAYBE A 935# AXLES. THANKS, ANDREW!







Larry C

[Shadow Catcher]

Should be a stunning teardrop, I look forward to following this one. I have always admired wood stripper canoes but we tend to hit lots of rocks, Hard!

[dwgriff1]

There are several of those Mikes Ultra light under construction. I think it has a great profile.

Work carefully you should be able to beat mine at 580. I think 500 is possible without undue problems.

Looks very good.

dave

[Juneaudave]

I sure like your plan!!! Keep the pics coming!!

[bve]

Great introduction to your build. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress.

Burke

[Larry C]

Did some work on my build this weekend. I decided to further cut some weight off my floor. I had originally milled my old picnic table lumber to 1-1/2" x 1-1/8" to use for my floor framing. The ends were milled to 1-1/2" x 4" taperd to 3" to match profile. All this old lumber is pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine. It is strong and heavy.
I remilled it to 1" X 1-1/8" and reduced the ends pieces to 1" X 3" taper to 2" My goal is a floor that is 1-3/8" thick with 1/8 Luan bottom and 1/4" on top. I hope the SYP on 12" centers is going to be strong enough for the 5X8 as my trailer frame is just a triangle and the torsion box floor is mostly self supporting. The bottom will also be fiberglass/Epoxy.
I found some 1" blue foam at Lowes. After measuring it in several locations, I found the thickness was inconsistent. I decided to mill the foam to the exact thickness of my wood framing. It worked very well, but created a big mess

No....... That ain't snow



Big mess blowing all over my garage/yard


Everything being planed to 1"




materials for build piling up


My first use of the HF Trim Router I bought a couple years ago for $20.
I really like it because the starting torque is very mild compared to my fixed base Bosch. I used a 1/8" solid carbide bit with a 1x4 as a guide to cut the door profile and the bulkheads/shelves inset into my template.




Floor framing planed to 1"


Larry

[Juneaudave]

There is a new one, planing foam!!!

Keep those pics coming, I think I'm going to learn alot here!

[2bits]

I love the frame, I will be doing a simliar kind of frame if/when I build the next one. So simple and proportioned.

[Larry C]

There is a new one, planing foam!!!

Keep those pics coming, I think I'm going to learn alot here!

Dave,I don't know what you will learn from me that you don't already know.
Your build sets the bar for "woodies" I constantly check your pics for inspiration and ideas. Mine won't be anyway near your Teardrop's quality.

Larry

[Larry C]

I love the frame, I will be doing a simliar kind of frame if/when I build the next one. So simple and proportioned.

I agree, Andrew really came up with a great design. I think it is elegant!
I especially like the adjustable prop stand incorporated into the coupler tube.
I don't know what my build will end up weighing so I will build the triangle for now and see what everything weighs before buying my stub axles. They are availalbe 425#;550#,and 935#. I am hoping to use the 550. I want my axles loaded close to their rating.

BTW/ your build is one of my favorites...........

Larry

[2bits]

Oh I like that stand that you mentioned! Just seeing the frame makes me want to start another one already, and thank you too!

[Larry C]

I finally got the steel I need for the frame. Everything is cut and ready for my welder friend. The tongue angles were a lot of fun to cut as the angles were beyond the capability of my old miter saw converted to a metal cutting chop saw. I cut them with a hack saw which took awhile, but came they out good. All other cuts, the chop saw worked great.
I don't have my flexride stub axles yet because I am not sure if I will need the 550# (I hope) or 935# capacity. I will wait till I get the frame welded and finish me torsion box floor and weigh everything before deciding.
The floor build is also progressing. I do have a question for anyone that has the Atwood Stabilizer Jacks. I would like to know the bolt center spacing for the attachment as I will be installing Tee nuts in my floor frame to be able to attach the stabilizers later.

Larry C.

[img]http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=66365[img][/img]

[img]http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=66367[/imghttp://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=66368][/img]

[steve smoot]

Larry, the trailer is looking good...

I found out too late that 3/4" plus 3/4" does not equal 1 1/2" when you are talking foamboard... sure wish I had a planner that would take 14 1/2" stock..

Steve

[2bits]

Beauty in simplicity!

[S. Heisley]

Nice, really nice....Can hardly wait to see and read more!