Check my young Montana logic

[claw73]

Thanks Conestoga,

I'm thinking of doing the DIY bed liner just for the top surface where rocks seem more likely. Here we seem to sand the roads with quarter size rocks and they last all summer, so I want to not worry about a rock pelting a piece of epoxy.

Thanks! Keep ideas coming everyone!

[claw73]

Alright, I got out yesterday and even talked my roommate into helping. We got the other wall all framed up and figured out how to do the windows. Pics of that will be coming whenever they get progress made. It seems like I'll be stuck until next month on the 11th when I get paid. Good news is at that point it will be the galley, roof, staining/sealing, and all the hardware!

We only made one mistake of installing a nailer/wood inside wall sandwich by measuring one side (the one without the door) before checking the side with the door. This was for the small overhead junk shelf. Guess what got in the way...the dumb door . Luckily we were able to adjust and add a second nailer and since the whole thing is getting skinned still, no one will have to know. I'll get pictures before the inner skins go on and of the windows soon!

[claw73]

Well, weather and funds are holding me up. Luckily, payday is only a couple weeks away and I think I can finish it to be rolling and sealed. However, I now have a couple new questions for all my guiding heroes.

I have figured out how to build windows. I will be using the parmesan cheese tube top method where I have two layers of Lexan, with an inner layer that rotates and has parts removed that can align with the outer piece. Then the inside turns and is blocked against the outside piece. It's hard to explain, and this next part isn't any better. I want to cut a 10" circle in the outside skin, place the outside square piece of Lexan up against the inside of the outside skin with a butt-load of silicone. Then I will place some 1/2" x 1/2" molding on the inside of the siliconed Lexan with more silicone and screws going from the molding to the 1x3" frame that surrounds the Lexan.....anyway I'll try to get some pictures as I build it to describe it better. Here is my question though, what is the best way to cut a 10" diameter circle in 1/4" luaun without a dremel, router, or jigsaw.

The second question is about sealing the top. I was thinking of using rhino lining or something similar but that is very expensive. Has anyone used that asphalt emulsion black goo for the roof? If that isn't possible I'll just seal with epoxy and paint for now. Thanks for any tips everyone!!!

[claw73]

Well, weather and funds are holding me up. Luckily, payday is only a couple weeks away and I think I can finish it to be rolling and sealed. However, I now have a couple new questions for all my guiding heroes.

I have figured out how to build windows. I will be using the parmesan cheese tube top method where I have two layers of Lexan, with an inner layer that rotates and has parts removed that can align with the outer piece. Then the inside turns and is blocked against the outside piece. It's hard to explain, and this next part isn't any better. I want to cut a 10" circle in the outside skin, place the outside square piece of Lexan up against the inside of the outside skin with a butt-load of silicone. Then I will place some 1/2" x 1/2" molding on the inside of the siliconed Lexan with more silicone and screws going from the molding to the 1x3" frame that surrounds the Lexan.....anyway I'll try to get some pictures as I build it to describe it better. Here is my question though, what is the best way to cut a 10" diameter circle in 1/4" luaun without a dremel, router, or jigsaw.

The second question is about sealing the top. I was thinking of using rhino lining or something similar but that is very expensive. Has anyone used that asphalt emulsion black goo for the roof? If that isn't possible I'll just seal with epoxy and paint for now. Thanks for any tips everyone!!!

[Ageless]

Cutting a circle by hand?





Pocket saw

[eaglesdare]

I'm having a hard time picturing the ice dam tape and the "C" you make with it.

Here is a real crude drawing....

The C is the tape folded back on itsself sticky side out. the little blobs are the 2 rows of silicone. lexan/plexi on top and the plywood roof below.

Does that help any ????

i just started reading this thread and have to say i was having a hard time visualizing this also. thanks so much for the drawing! i was also thinking of a lexan window on top.

[claw73]

Hahaha, that was ALL BOBHENRY! Credit should go where it actually belongs. For the top Lexan window that is the way to do it, but I'm not sure if I can incorporate (or maybe just how to) the ice dam tape into the side windows.

[claw73]

Alright all you great thinkers. I have a conundrum. What do people use on edge moulding? I know some of you use angle iron that is 1/2" and 1/4", but is there anything less spendy? Also, what do people use when you make your doors? I was going to use the moulding around the door frame, then put some 2" on the actual door which is where the sealing will go. Does this sound like the common way to go?

I don't want the moulding to be the most expensive piece of the teardrop. Any tips?!?

[Conestoga]

i can see right thru your "trailer on the wall" trick. good try..
but how'd you get that door to stick to the wheel?

[Conestoga]

I have figured out how to build windows. I will be using the parmesan cheese tube top method where I have two layers of Lexan, with an inner layer that rotates and has parts removed that can align with the outer piece. Then the inside turns and is blocked against the outside piece. It's hard to explain, ...

something like SlyTerry's, right?

...and this next part isn't any better. I want to cut a 10" circle in the outside skin, place the outside square piece of Lexan up against the inside of the outside skin with a butt-load of silicone. Then I will place some 1/2" x 1/2" molding on the inside of the siliconed Lexan...

this is where i lose ya... i can't see the molding. i have a concept window going too and this is where i get stuck.

...with more silicone and screws going from the molding to the 1x3" frame that surrounds the Lexan.....anyway I'll try to get some pictures as I build it to describe it better.

waiting patiently

[claw73]

I hope this helps.

The molding is just so that it is less permanent and the plexi can be removed/reinstalled if broken without ripping apart the entire wall. Just in case.

[Conestoga]

claw, thanks for the useful drawing.

i too am attending the "bobhenry school of architectural design"
so i fired up mspaint.exe

there is the opening in the outer plexiglass.
inevitably, moisture is going to get in between the layers of plexiglass.
an area of interest is the lower edge.
any weatherproofing (in red) on the outer plexi will hold that moisture in. i think.
there will also be condensation from the inside of the cabin.
the desired path of drainage is indicated by the arrow. "weep hole"

[claw73]

Thanks Conestoga, that drawing is much better than mine. What is a common way to add a weep hole to the windows?

[Conestoga]

claw, i have no idea. i've never built a window (that opened) before.

my first thoughts are to just put a little drain channel there, the size of a
drinking straw, angled down and outward. and plug it with a pencil when the
trailer is in storage so wasps don't move in....
as you can see i don't have a lot of hangups when it comes to cosmetic things.

[claw73]

Wow it's been a while since I was on here. We are still possibly getting snow so I haven't done much work. However, I'm ordering plastic piano hinges from mcmaster carr for both the one door hinge and the galley hatch. I'm starting to look for the hardware to have door latches. Any tips?

My doors right now will need a plate on the inside to stop them. I'm thinking I'll run some aluminum angle around all the corners and continue to use this for the inside. Does anyone have any recommendations for a rubber (read less expensive) molding for the edges?

The windows are being worked on right now with pictures to come later!

Thanks!