TearTable ... Direct download of plans on Page 7!

[Lookfar]

Looks like the perfect table for me. I would love a set of plans.
[email protected]
Thanks for your efforts...

[Ward]

I was going to stay away from this site until I got more organized but, when I saw the email today of the replys to this post I just couldnt help myself

I also have cut my table and assembled. and found the problem with the notch ( thought it was my fault though) What a relief would have been the first mistake I had ever made.

I had a problem drilling a 3/8 hole int the 3/4 plywood (operator error) but I will blame it on the way plywood is constructed Then I thought about the dowels getting broken off and or misplaced if not glued. My solution was to route a 7/8" x 7/16" deep groove where the table and seats would meet the supports. Not only did this solve my problem with the dowels and holes it made the table lighter as well.

I know youre asking where are the pictures? They will be in my next post promise!

Regards

[Ward]

Alright here is a picture of the underside of the table the groove starts about 4 1/2" from each corner and crosses in the center. The cut is not the prettiest and probably is more than 7/8" in alot of places.


This next picture may alarm some people but please keep in mind he has four older sisters and he is wearing his PPE! This picture illustrates the strength and stability of the table without any kind of securing other than the grooves and gravity. The table seemed to be sturdier once the tops were fit snuggly over the supports.


And here is a view of the assembled table. It is now primed and ready for paint pictures soon to come.


Regards

[Corwin C]

<snip>
My solution was to route a 7/8" x 7/16" deep groove where the table and seats would meet the supports. Not only did this solve my problem with the dowels and holes it made the table lighter as well.
<snip>

BRILLIANT !!!! I hadn't thought of that. Let me know how the 5/16" of ply remaining holds up after some use. I would have been more conservative and only went 3/8" deep. Good ply would make a big difference here also. I think that I'll make your groove idea an option on the plans if you don't mind.

I also have cut my table and assembled. and found the problem with the notch ( thought it was my fault though) What a relief would have been the first mistake I had ever made.

I'm glad I could preserve your "never made a mistake" record ...

[Miriam C.]

<snip>
My solution was to route a 7/8" x 7/16" deep groove where the table and seats would meet the supports. Not only did this solve my problem with the dowels and holes it made the table lighter as well.
<snip>

BRILLIANT !!!! I hadn't thought of that. Let me know how the 5/16" of ply remaining holds up after some use. I would have been more conservative and only went 3/8" deep. Good ply would make a big difference here also. I think that I'll make your groove idea an option on the plans if you don't mind.

I also have cut my table and assembled. and found the problem with the notch ( thought it was my fault though) What a relief would have been the first mistake I had ever made.

I'm glad I could preserve your "never made a mistake" record ...

If the groove proves a weakening issue then perhaps some 1/2" x 1/2" or larger rails on either side. That is what I thought you were doing...

[Corwin C]

If the groove proves a weakening issue then perhaps some 1/2" x 1/2" or larger rails on either side. That is what I thought you were doing...

The original design used dowel pins (4 on the top, 2 on each seat) to keep the parts aligned (if you look closely in my "finished" picture you can see the tips of the dowels as almost white spots on the top and seats). I used dowels because I believed that it was the "easiest" way to hold the parts in place using simple hand tools and it would make the top "flippable" allowing different finishes/details for different uses. Conceivably one could be built with just a handsaw and brace & bit. The only time that there is any stress on them at all is when someone applies a sideways or twisting force to the table top or seat and during assembly/disassembly (especially w/ warped ply like I used). Ward seemed to be having difficulties with the dowels in the original design and routed a groove to perform the same function. I don't think that the groove will be an issue on the TearTable as I believe it is more than strong enough provided that it is used with some care (Ward's helper certainly has no fear). There may be an issue with the larger spans on the large table, I'm going to have to look at it seriously before I recommend the grooves in that application. Cleats/rails as you suggest would work as well (better in some cases), but would add thickness (and storage issues) to the final product. As with most things, each "solution" has it's own advantages and disadvantages.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Thanks for the plans! Not sure when I'll get around to building it, as I'd really like to build a washerboard game first, but it certainly next in line!

[azbrewer]

My wife saw this over my shoulder and asked for a set. Don't know when but I will add it to the list, if you could send the plans it would be great. [email protected]

Thanks

Steve

[d_lairson]

Could you send me an updated copy of the plans? I'm looking for a couple of starter projects and the wife loves this table so I thought it would be a good one to start with.

Thanks!

[Uncle Chan]

IF the plans are still available, I would like a set. I will be taking our tear on a two summer vacation next month and would love to take this sweet little table with us.

Thank you,

Doug

[email protected]

[rebapuck]

I'm not seeing something. It looks to me like the seats, crossbar and seat supports are all screwed together. How does it come apart? Is it unscrewed to dismantle?

[Corwin C]

I'm not seeing something. It looks to me like the seats, crossbar and seat supports are all screwed together. How does it come apart? Is it unscrewed to dismantle?

It is all lap joints except for the top and seats which are located by dowel pins (Ward used dado slots instead of the dowels.) The pieces simply slip together and support each other. There is no hardware whatsoever. It only takes a minute or two to set up and about the same to take down.

[Rlowell]

I just found this link...What a great idea!!!

If it is still available, may I please have a set of the plans? Thank you very much. My Tear is almost finished and this would make a great addition.
Rod

[Rlowell]

oops... my email is [email protected] (RODL)
Thank you.

[Flying hog]

Could I also get a set of plans? [email protected] Thanks!