Ordering Trailer TOMORROW Help!

[digimark]

You might want to look at my album and some of my original posts on T&TTT. My trailer is a custom-configured CargoSport CS610SA -- the CargoSport had a bunch of the upgrades I wanted so the price came out better, like LED exterior lighting all around, plus some of the mods I wanted weren't available in the Journey.

Some initial thoughts:

1. I don't know what your budget is, but it doesn't add a lot of cost to have Pace insulate everything -- floor (Thermobacker), walls and ceiling. Getting the ceiling insulated also means you need to specify some kind of ceiling like lauan or the white laminate-like stuff I chose. The point is you're going to need the insulation, so compare the cost of having them do it (and the warranty) vs. time and materials to do it yourself.

I wish I had asked them to mark on the walls where the studs are -- it would have helped me when I was mounting cabinets.

2. If you aren't springing for the RV-style door, at least make sure you get a flush-mount side door latch mechanism, so you can lock it from the inside and prevent people from locking you in from the outside.

3. If you think you might be replacing the roof vent with a 12V fan or an air conditioner later, you might want to have them put an electric stub box next to the vent so you'll have the circuit available.

4. Pace offers different kinds of stabilizer jacks -- the light duty ones have a pin and drop straight down in the corners. They work but are a bit hard to work with. The heavier duty ones are spring-loaded and/or scissor down into position, although some have reported they have a problem when sand gets into them. Investigate your choices.

5. I chose a 6'x10' flat nose trailer chopped a foot (4'9" interior height) because I wanted it to fit into an 81" garage door opening and the 6' width allows us to sleep across the width of the trailer. (Assumes you are less than 5'9" high.) If I couldn't put it into my garage, I'd have had to pay ~$100/month to store it at a local storage place here in suburban Maryland outside DC. If you have a permanent place to store it you can do a lot more height options than I could.

Unless you are wedded to the 5' width, you might ask the dealer to let you hook up and test drive a 6' wide trailer and see if the extra width is still manageable behind your Jeep before you commit to the smaller trailer. If you have any doubts at all, this legwork is important because you can't make the trailer wider later.

6. You can ask Pace to add a receiver hitch to the back end if you think you might have need of it to haul bikes, portable grills or any other hitch-mount items.

7. The battery they installed in my trailer for the basic 12V service for dome lights and such is an Interstate HD24-DP, the cheapest deep haul battery generally available. Not a lot of capacity there. You might see if they offer a higher capacity option. They installed the battery in an inexpensive white two-piece Group 24 battery box with a vent in the trailer wall and a corrugated tube to connect the two.

8. Again, not knowing what your budget is, and where too much begins, but I had Pace install a 30A 120VAC shoreline, 6-slot power panel, both internal and external AC jacks and a single fluorescent fixture. I also had some 12V power points installed for recharging cell phones and a patio light outside the door so I could see outside the trailer in the dark through the window without opening the door. Made the trailer more useful in several modes.

Hope some of this helps.

[Crazylegs]

I think I have made up my mind on the height at 5'6". Pace is building it for me i am excited. to get it back . I have more questions if you help.

1. I am trying to decide where to put the windows. For now they are centered on the flat wall at 45" above deck height, does that sound good? The window is 15" x 30".

2.Another question how do they insulate the floor at factory and how after the fact?

3. Where do I put propane on a Vnose?

4. How to heat.

[8ball_99]

I went with a flat nose just because I wanted a spot to mount a battery box and a LP bottle. With a Vnose you won't have room for that stuff on the front of the trailer.

[astrotrailer]

I don't know how they do it at the factory but I can tell you how I did it. I first water sealed the
plywood floor on the top and underneath the trailer. I cut down some 2x4 wood down to 2 inch
height. I screwed them under the deck along the edge of the metal frame and a few in the middle
to stiffen up the floor which was only supported every 2 feet by the metal frame. I sealed the added
2x4 wood. I then cut 2 inch rigid insulation to fit all the spaces between the 2x4 pieces I added
between the frame sections. This gave me two inches of insulation under the deck. I bought 2
4x8 thin fiberglass panels and cut them down to match the width of my trailer. I used them
to cover up the rigid. I screw them in place with caulk underneath the edges using screws with
flat washers. The screws went in the the 2x4 under the deck. I caulked all the screws and edges.
I also put 1/2 inch of quality closed cell foam underneath the carpet on the floor and under the
carpet going on the ramp door and side walls. The walls also have 1 inch rigid and 1 inch of
rigid and 1 inch of closed cell foam in the ceiling. I use mine in the winter time because
nights are long and great for astronomy imaging.

[nickelmania]

You might want to look at my album and some of my original posts on T&TTT. My trailer is a custom-configured CargoSport CS610SA -- the CargoSport had a bunch of the upgrades I wanted so the price came out better, like LED exterior lighting all around, plus some of the mods I wanted weren't available in the Journey.

Some initial thoughts:

1. I don't know what your budget is, but it doesn't add a lot of cost to have Pace insulate everything -- floor (Thermobacker), walls and ceiling. Getting the ceiling insulated also means you need to specify some kind of ceiling like lauan or the white laminate-like stuff I chose. The point is you're going to need the insulation, so compare the cost of having them do it (and the warranty) vs. time and materials to do it yourself.

I wish I had asked them to mark on the walls where the studs are -- it would have helped me when I was mounting cabinets.

2. If you aren't springing for the RV-style door, at least make sure you get a flush-mount side door latch mechanism, so you can lock it from the inside and prevent people from locking you in from the outside.

3. If you think you might be replacing the roof vent with a 12V fan or an air conditioner later, you might want to have them put an electric stub box next to the vent so you'll have the circuit available.

4. Pace offers different kinds of stabilizer jacks -- the light duty ones have a pin and drop straight down in the corners. They work but are a bit hard to work with. The heavier duty ones are spring-loaded and/or scissor down into position, although some have reported they have a problem when sand gets into them. Investigate your choices.

5. I chose a 6'x10' flat nose trailer chopped a foot (4'9" interior height) because I wanted it to fit into an 81" garage door opening and the 6' width allows us to sleep across the width of the trailer. (Assumes you are less than 5'9" high.) If I couldn't put it into my garage, I'd have had to pay ~$100/month to store it at a local storage place here in suburban Maryland outside DC. If you have a permanent place to store it you can do a lot more height options than I could.

Unless you are wedded to the 5' width, you might ask the dealer to let you hook up and test drive a 6' wide trailer and see if the extra width is still manageable behind your Jeep before you commit to the smaller trailer. If you have any doubts at all, this legwork is important because you can't make the trailer wider later.

6. You can ask Pace to add a receiver hitch to the back end if you think you might have need of it to haul bikes, portable grills or any other hitch-mount items.

7. The battery they installed in my trailer for the basic 12V service for dome lights and such is an Interstate HD24-DP, the cheapest deep haul battery generally available. Not a lot of capacity there. You might see if they offer a higher capacity option. They installed the battery in an inexpensive white two-piece Group 24 battery box with a vent in the trailer wall and a corrugated tube to connect the two.

8. Again, not knowing what your budget is, and where too much begins, but I had Pace install a 30A 120VAC shoreline, 6-slot power panel, both internal and external AC jacks and a single fluorescent fixture. I also had some 12V power points installed for recharging cell phones and a patio light outside the door so I could see outside the trailer in the dark through the window without opening the door. Made the trailer more useful in several modes.

Hope some of this helps.

Digimark.....How are your bunks set up. Do both sides go into the E Tracks?

[Crazylegs]

Any solutions for propane on a v nose 5x8? What are some ideas for heaters? Utah winter and high elevation Camping.

[pete42]

I am looking at a vee nose cargo trailer I too wondered about short tongue so I ask and they will add 12 inches to length and also add extra bracing.
I should have ordered last year but to many trips to hospital that trailer got put on back burner down to 3 more stays in hospital 1 this month and 2 next then maybe then I'll jump ....

[astrotrailer]

I put in an Atwood furnace last year. Works great with a very low (<2) amp draw on the battery. I do astronomy imaging out of my
trailer and I get really cold at 3AM in the winter and need a place to get warm, so I love the furnace.

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=33848

[digimark]

How are your bunks set up. Do both sides go into the E Tracks?

Yup. With E-track in both walls I used beam sockets to carry 2x4's across the trailer width, and then used 1/4" hardwood panels across those to form the bunks. (I used three 2x4's per bunk so the middle would be supported.) I used a router to cove-over the edges.

I mis-measured where to put the E-Tracks -- didn't allow enough room between them to stack the bunks vertically -- so I had to offset them. It's easier to climb into the top bunk though.

[Crazylegs]

Just an update. My trailer is ordered and I am excited. Delivery sch on may 28. I live in Utah and go camping every month with my son and his scout troupe. I am one of the leaders for the troupe and feel a responsibility to go even when it is cold. I am a partial paraplegic from a accident when i was 18. I use crutches and braces or a wheel chair to get around. I can not wimp out and stay home on the tough ones. Last January we camped out in Utah's west desert and it was 10deg when we went to bed and dropped colder that night. The boys slept out on the ground is bivy bags and i sleep in a 4x8 trailer that is tight but is insulated and helps keep me warm. On some of the winter camp out my legs get so cold i shiver all night and never sleep.
This new trailer is going to make my life so much more comfortable.

I am considering instaling Propex HS2000 heater http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/air-heaters.php
Check out the size of this this thing it is the size of a shoe box.
What do you think?

[nickelmania]

How are your bunks set up. Do both sides go into the E Tracks?

Yup. With E-track in both walls I used beam sockets to carry 2x4's across the trailer width, and then used 1/4" hardwood panels across those to form the bunks. (I used three 2x4's per bunk so the middle would be supported.) I used a router to cove-over the edges.

I mis-measured where to put the E-Tracks -- didn't allow enough room between them to stack the bunks vertically -- so I had to offset them. It's easier to climb into the top bunk though.

Thanks Digi! Can I ask how your TV is set up too? Satilite?

[nickelmania]

Just an update. My trailer is ordered and I am excited. Delivery sch on may 28. I live in Utah and go camping every month with my son and his scout troupe. I am one of the leaders for the troupe and feel a responsibility to go even when it is cold. I am a partial paraplegic from a accident when i was 18. I use crutches and braces or a wheel chair to get around. I can not wimp out and stay home on the tough ones. Last January we camped out in Utah's west desert and it was 10deg when we went to bed and dropped colder that night. The boys slept out on the ground is bivy bags and i sleep in a 4x8 trailer that is tight but is insulated and helps keep me warm. On some of the winter camp out my legs get so cold i shiver all night and never sleep.
This new trailer is going to make my life so much more comfortable.

I am cesidering instaling Propex HS2000 heater http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/air-heaters.php
Check out the size of this this thing it is the size of a shoe box.
What do you think?

That is quick turn around time. I ordered my trailer and I think it is going to take 4 to 6 weeks and the factory is only 1.5 hours away.

[Crazylegs]

I was getting bids from both Pace and Haulmark and i told them when i needed it for a week long Scout camp @ the first of june. There bids were with in $100 of each other and i told them i would except the bid from the one that could get it by that dead line and Pace said they could. I hope they deliver.

[digimark]

CrazyLegs asked about the TV...

It's a 19" Vizio panel I bought from Dell with a $200 off coupon I had that didn't have a minimum purchase on it -- oops. The TV was $9 plus shipping. Bet they don't do that again.

I haven't figured out antenna options yet so for now I plug a video iPod or an iPod Touch into it and play movies and TV shows off of that.

If I didn't already have the TV mounted, I would just use an iPad -- the 10" screen is big enough.

[chukar]

i would advise that you get the extra 6" height option rather than the bent head scenario you describe.

if it is raining/snowing and you have to spend major portions of a day or 2 in the cargo your neck will thank you soo much.

the extra $25 bucks in gas will be well spent and now you have more room, hence more possibilities for storage and ....

I like your ideas and you have spent some time "thinking it out" for sure