Brakes

[boxcar]

I think if one averaged out the cost of steel nation wide you will be looking at somewhere in the $400 rainge to build a basic tube trailer w/
a say 2000lb axle equiped with 7" brakes. Cheaper if you used angle or pos. channel iron. Wile this is not going to compete with the H/F trailer on price point nor ease of build. It is on a par if one is thinking of converting a H/F to brakes.
The 2200lb Kelsey axle w/7" brakes is between $125 (cheapest I'v seen) and $175 (most I'd spend) and is available in 4x4, 4x4 1/2, 5x4 1/2, and 5x5 " Bolt pat. Or one can use the 3500 axle with 2000 lb springs.
The larger 10" brakes on the 3500lb axle don't build up heat nearly as fast and will out last the 7" units. But you won't get the same bolt pat. variety. The Kelsey Hayes axles are prety much the industry standard and are sold trough most trailer suply outlets. Making replacement parts available nation wide. If one must order over the internet. Make sure that you are geting an axle that is at least compatable with the kelsey parts .
Or you may find yourself unable to get replacements when you need them the most. ... Boxcar...

[eamarquardt]

converting harbor freight to brakes folks doesn't mean scraping the hole harbor freight trailer and building a new one. To much mony in this balony.

Just get a new axle and you really don't even need some one to weld to convert it. you could actually do it all with bolting together. cost you way more for the steel to build the frame than just the new axle and springs.

Just grab a new axle some springs and the shackles about 8 foot of good heavy thick walled angle iron and get a tape measure and a good half inch drill. going to need some drill bits close to 5/8s or half inch. even 3/4 will work. bolt the angle to the frame and measure the axle to the tongue to get square. I would though weld the spring shackles at this point as it is easer to tack it to get right on with the measerments and square. than bolting. but go ahead and bolt the angles with the new axle attached to the harbor freiht frame.

Your choice of wheels but I would get 15s or 14s if it was me. ditch the harbor freight 12s. add gas schocks and your got one of the best pulling go any where teardrops.

it would cost you way more in square tubing to build a hole new frame pluse axle pluse brakes. Its just a teardrop for God sake and its just holding your bed and a kitchen counter. Its not weighing hardly anything.

why build for a hole new rv? teardrops the hole idea in the 30s and in todays economy and resson are meant to be cheapo. its the concept instead of going normal rv.

Build what you want. but gee to me if a harbor freight trailer Can do the job. why build a hole new frame.

You can put brakes on a harbor freight trailer with out a hole new rebuild just switch the axle and beef the frame up with a bit of heavy angle. Nothing to it and cost about problay at least half of what all that square tubing is going to cost you for a new trailer on top of your new axle.
My thoughts. Slowcowboy. If you need a new frame just get a old popup they can be had for little or nothing and scrap the body and use it or even a old boat trailer. on teardrops it all depends on you and how deep your wallet is. You can build as cheap[ and get by as you want or build as elaborate and put as much money in a teardrop as you want.

If yer gonna go to all the trouble outlined above, why not build exactly what you want in the first place. You can scrounge, beg, borrow, steal (if your concious allows), recycle, sell your children (I'd gladly sell my 20 and 23 year old sons, save the money their education is costing me, and put some money in my pocket), mow lawns, work at Burger King part time, etc.

I just bought:

2-Flex ride half alxes(1,400# cap) equiped with 7" electric brakes 5 on 4.5"
2-rims and tires (the fat ones like on tent trailers)
electric brake controller
integrated trailer plug and cable
integrated tow vehicle recepticle and cable
break away switch
battery isolator to charge break-a-way battery
break away battery and box

All like new for $225. The fellow I bought it from paid almost $700 (I have the reciepts).

You, as I recall, got a tent trailer frame with axle, brakes, and maybe rims and tires for what $100.

Bargains are out there if you are willing to look and wait a bit.

If you want "instant gratification", the HF trailer is exacly the size you want, tow with a vehicle that won't be "on the edge" a HF trailer is a viable alternative.

Cheers,

Gus

[Corwin C]

I'm not going to knock those who choose to use HF trailers ... they're just not the solution for me. Yes, I will spend a little more on my trailer, but it will be exactly what I want from the beginning ... electric brakes, 15" wheels, 5'x9.5' frame, lightweight, receiver hitches (back and sides), mounting points for spare and stabilizers, etc.

If a HF meets your needs and wants, then by all means use one ... if you're going to have to heavily modify a HF to get what you need/want, I would check into the other possibilities that are out there. By the time these little trailers are modified to accommodate much more than a 4'x8', it seems that they might be actually more costly than the alternative.

[boxcar]

I desided to try to end this debate once and for all. Harbor freight trailer (average cost $300 + 2200lb kelsey axle with 7" dexter brakes and all hangers and springs from my local suplyer $225 +2x2"x3/16 angle iron x 8ft $20 + 15" tires and wheels from Leschwab $210 + Monro gas 12" shocks $60 =$815
60 ft 2x2x120 sq. tube $120 +2" coupler $16 +Safty chains $10 + 15" wheels and tires (from Leschwab)$210 + same axle as above $225 + fenders from my local trailer suply $30 + trailer light kit $20 + Monro 12" gas shocks $60 = $691
And yes, if you scrounge you can do better. Also this does not incl. Labor.
But time is money, so if you figure that you will spend about 4 hours first building your H/F trailer then add another 4 hours to modify it at say $20 an hour ( I asume most people here make at least that). This will defer some of the cost of having to pay labor if you are not a welder...Now look at the numbers , The H/F trailer is no longer a bargan... Sory for going off topic like this . I will try not to speek on this again....Boxcar...

[Corwin C]

I desided to try to end this debate once and for all.

Good luck ... these threads have a life of their own and they seem to breed quickly.

Harbor freight trailer (average cost $300 + 2200lb kelsey axle with 7" dexter brakes and all hangers and springs from my local suplyer $225 +2x2"x3/16 angle iron x 8ft $20 + 15" tires and wheels from Leschwab $210 + Monro gas 12" shocks $60 =$815

60 ft 2x2x120 sq. tube $120 +2" coupler $16 +Safty chains $10 + 15" wheels and tires (from Leschwab)$210 + same axle as above $225 + fenders from my local trailer suply $30 + trailer light kit $20 + Monro 12" gas shocks $60 = $691

And I would not be using the fenders or lights from the HF anyway (I don't like how they look) so that's actually a savings ...

And yes, if you scrounge you can do better. Also this does not incl. Labor. But time is money, so if you figure that you will spend about 4 hours first building your H/F trailer then add another 4 hours to modify it at say $20 an hour ( I asume most people here make at least that). This will defer some of the cost of having to pay labor if you are not a welder

I recently helped a friend (who will be assisting me on my trailer) build a 4'x8' trailer w/ Dexter 3500# axle to go under a 500 gallon water tank for hauling water to cattle on the Escalante Desert. (Yes, he knows it will be overloaded) Between the two of us (we're both experienced metal workers) we were able to build it in about 3 hours with all the welds ground smooth and ready for paint. This included cutting steel, tacking together, squaring carefully, welding on tongue, jack, safety chains, 2 5/16" hitch, welding on brackets for Dexter axle, gussets for corners and tongue, completing all welds, and grinding smooth. All of the tools and supplies needed were at hand and we followed a plan. There were no "off-the-cuff" decisions (which saved a lot of time.) He does quite a bit of welding for the community and has steel suppliers which give him wholesale prices and drop ship directly to him, he bought the axle complete w/ 16" rims & tires 2nd hand for $200. I just called him this morning, and his estimation (no fenders, no lights, traded labor) was a total of $460. And believe me, this is one heavy duty little trailer. (No brakes BTW ... it'll be used 100% off-road with a 4WD 1-ton Dodge pickup in an environment that would be a maintenance nightmare for brakes)

Now look at the numbers , The H/F trailer is no longer a bargan... Sory for going off topic like this . I will try not to speek on this again....Boxcar...

It is interesting to see this with numbers. It just firmed up my decision to continue with my plans.
May this RIP. (... but I know it won't)

[boxcar]

Glad to be of help...Boxcar...

[artwebb]

I desided to try to end this debate once and for all. Harbor freight trailer (average cost $300 + 2200lb kelsey axle with 7" dexter brakes and all hangers and springs from my local suplyer $225 +2x2"x3/16 angle iron x 8ft $20 + 15" tires and wheels from Leschwab $210 + Monro gas 12" shocks $60 =$815
60 ft 2x2x120 sq. tube $120 +2" coupler $16 +Safty chains $10 + 15" wheels and tires (from Leschwab)$210 + same axle as above $225 + fenders from my local trailer suply $30 + trailer light kit $20 + Monro 12" gas shocks $60 = $691
And yes, if you scrounge you can do better. Also this does not incl. Labor.
But time is money, so if you figure that you will spend about 4 hours first building your H/F trailer then add another 4 hours to modify it at say $20 an hour ( I asume most people here make at least that). This will defer some of the cost of having to pay labor if you are not a welder...Now look at the numbers , The H/F trailer is no longer a bargan... Sory for going off topic like this . I will try not to speek on this again....Boxcar...

An enlightening post. I would certainly think long and hard on this if building a trailer I expected to top 1500 or tow with a small vehicle.
I've never towed with electric brakes before, though, so I'd probably go with surge brakes rather than having a setup I have to program, as I wouldn't have the foggiest how to program it, which might make me more, rather than less, dangerous

[angib]

Just to throw another figure into the debate, the UK has some fairly harsh rules about the size of trailer a motorcycle can tow - max width 40", for example.

The weight limit for bikes (which never usually have trailer brakes) is 330 pounds or two-thirds the motorcyle's kerb weight (sorry, curb weight), whichever is less. Of course for a motorcycle, kerb weight is quite low compared to its gross weight with a rider and passenger onboard but nevertheless two-thirds is quite a big percentage.

Andrew

[boxcar]

You don't program electric brakes. Most use an adjustment knob . You lightly apply your vehicle brakes then adust the knob until you feel a slight drag from the trailer and you are done. Surge brakes definatly have some advantages . Like being able to use them with any tow rig wired for a reverce lock out. But try backing up a hill or into a driveway with out a lock out. And they have no provisions for a drag brake. ( The ability to aply the trailer brakes independently from the rig brakes). Useful when on steep down grades (can prevent trailer jack knifing). Oh and by the way. Even a trailer that tips the scale at 1000lbs is to heavy to tow with a 2800lb rig like my cj5 (yes I am a masikist) [img][/img]with out brakes. Also it is not just the rig weight but the wheel base that can determine if you need brakes. A 1000lb trailer can still push a 4000lb rig with a 100" wheel base sideways in a sudden stop on a corner. I'v seen it happen to a Bronco towing a singal quad trailer.The Bronco was probably heavyer than 4000lbs and the trailer was more like 900lbs.The Bronco was totaled as was the quad and the trailer .I think no mater wich system you choose (electric or surge ) you can't go wrong. [img]:applause:[/img]..Boxcar...

[boxcar]

Look read the responses to your posts. Slowly... I have sed many times that your mods make sence if you already own a t/d with a H/F trailer under it...So scraping it was only brought up by YOU.
As to the $20 an hour coment it is an average for the whole community. ( That's everyone posting here) .Sure some people make less ,BUT some make more. It's an average!!!!!!!! As to the prices I posted again an average. Yes you can get steel cheaper in Oregon than in California. It depends where you are..... And yes shocks go on sale and there are many quality diferences . I did not quote the cheepest shock available . Why would I? There junk!!!!!!!I am truley sory that you got your feelings hurt . I think that you have taken things out of context and are arguing just for the sake of argument. By the way Kelsey hayes is one of the largest axle manufacturers in the world. Available everywhere . Thats the only reason I mentioned them .. Most of there axles use Dexter brakes. ( Common parts available everywhere. I have also stated that you can do the whole trailer thing on the cheep if you shop arround and use second hand parts. But that can not be quoted as fact because there are to many variables. I was given a fairly desent 69 cj5 yesterday. How often does that happen? Can we just get allong now. I'm trying.... By the way we are going to Moab in three weeks. Won't be far from you. You should come go wheeling with us . I'd love to swap stories around the fire with ya! I'l even buy ya a beer or two...Boxcar... or ....Mr. Boxcar.... if you like.

[hugh]

After reading this I have decide to order a 3500lb axle with brakes for my trailer. Initially I cheaped out and bought a 2000lb axle with a 48" hub face width to tow behind my Jeep Cherokee. Before heading out again it will have a wider track [less tippy] and brakes.

[asianflava]

After reading this I have decide to order a 3500lb axle with brakes for my trailer. Initially I cheaped out and bought a 2000lb axle with a 48" hub face width to tow behind my Jeep Cherokee. Before heading out again it will have a wider track [less tippy] and brakes.

Is this a torsion or leaf spring axle? If it's a torsion and you didn't get it derated, you will be in for a rough ride.

[hugh]

Leaf springs for me, also I have bought a set of munroe shocks which will be mounted at the same time. It should take about a month to save up, order and install them.

[48Rob]

Hugh,

Leaf springs are rated also.

It would be good to know what your finished trailer willl weigh so you can order the springs to be rated just a bit more, say 500 pounds or so.

If you can get close, you probably won't need shocks.
If the leaf springs are rated for a much heavier load than you put on them, shocks won't help as the springs won't flex enough to need damping.

If the springs are too light for the load, shocks will help.
Soft leaf springs give a very smooth ride, but need damping because they move so much at every little bump in the road...

Rob

[teardrop_focus]

Thanks, Rob, for adding that... but I must remind anyone else who may be reading this that there are leaf springs available that have the appropriate spring rate and weight rating... those too benefit from the installation of a hydraulic damper (shock absorber).

And yes, Hugh, it is most important when building a trailer to have a weight goal/weight never exceed rating... otherwise, the trailer suspension might fail from too heavy a trailer, or bounce down the road, beating the contents of the trailer to smithereens.

hugh

After reading this I have decide to order a 3500lb axle with brakes for my trailer. Initially I cheaped out and bought a 2000lb axle...

Hi, Hugh. Here're a couple of thoughts on the matter...

If the teardrop trailer's loaded static weight was something near 1500-1600 lbs, and if that were a 2000-lb rubber torsion axle, it would have been perfect. It would not be "cheaping out". Spring and axle ratings are chosen as 125% of the trailer's loaded static weight, and the ride quality would cushion and protect more delicate items like lanterns, dishes, electronics, etc.

With a leaf-spring solid-axle setup, yes; the axle itself can have a higher-rated capacity... then you're getting a (sometimes) beefier spindle, beefier bearings, larger brakes, etc... but at the expense of added weight.

(Please pardon me if I seem a bit cheeky by adding the following... [in case you're already aware of spring rating vs loaded weight and suspension compliance issues]).

Regardless of which leaf spring axle you choose, when choosing the actual leaf spring's rating, choose a spring rating of 125% of the trailer's loaded static weight... that is if you want keep the trailers contents from bouncing off the ceiling... and to keep the trailer from wanting to change lanes when you hit a big bump out on the highway.

Do you know, or have a planned, trailer maximum loaded weight?