DD, on the road to LCG

[StPatron]

The dinette area is almost complete now, just need to build the table and add the table supports. Here's the "before" street-side bench:


And, here's the "after" shot:


The framing members were salvaged from the original pop-up camper. I carefully dismantled them, labeled and bundled them for re-use. A lot of time was spent prepping them,,,, removing staples, screws, edge trim and the facings. As a result, very few additional supplies were needed. New facings, some poly, screws and glue. Probably around 20 bucks in new materials, within budget.

[grizz]

This is the part of the build people who do not build, do not get..... Preparation.

The amount of time it takes to prep a piece of "used" wood, to clear the staples, nails etc is much more than the value of your time, but the reward is much greater.

[aggie79]

Wow Gary,

You are really moving along on your build. I do like the dinette. It's one of those things I wish I had incorporated into my build.

We don't have a tabby, but here is a picture of "Fur Thing", our teardrop inspector:



Tom

[StPatron]

We don't have a tabby, but here is a picture of "Fur Thing", our teardrop inspector:

"Fur Thing" is gorgeous. Got one similar, "Cream". She was very curious, watching my every move as I dismantled the pop-up.


I've been able to get a little bit of work done in between racing inside the house when the storm sirens sound. Life in tornado alley.

I planned to build the closet today but instead decided to re-do the end panel on one of the dinette benches. It's the bench just inside the entry and has an access door. I wasn't happy with it and it was bugging me, so tackled it today. Grass is too wet to mow, guess I'll have to keep working on the camper in the meantime. Life is good!

[StPatron]

This is the part of the build people who do not build, do not get..... Preparation.

The amount of time it takes to prep a piece of "used" wood, to clear the staples, nails etc is much more than the value of your time, but the reward is much greater.

Right you are, Grizz. I just couldn't bring myself to take the wrecking ball to the pop-up and pile it at the curb, there were too many salvageable parts and the challenge of incorporating some of the materials in my build is something I enjoy. I have a few "surprises" in store for later.

Granted, it would be easier and less time consuming to purchase all new materials but where's the fun in that? I hope to demonstrate that anybody can turn a ratty, old, unwanted pop-up into a customized camper of their dreams.

[jkidd6339]

Everything is looking good Gary. Glad to see your getting some time to work on it. I finally bought some wood for the cabinets and just maybe I'll get started on them soon. Are you going to the rally? Oh here is a picture of mouse.

[StPatron]

Everything is looking good Gary. Glad to see your getting some time to work on it. I finally bought some wood for the cabinets and just maybe I'll get started on them soon. Are you going to the rally? Oh here is a picture of mouse.

Funny pic.

Thanks, Jody. I've about finished the closet and am covering the wheel wells with laminate that I scavenged. It's nice being able to get some time to work on it. Gonna have to skip this rally, will be at Stanton

[StPatron]

A few months ago I discovered a dumpster-diving goldmine at a nearby cabinet and countertop shop. It's unbelievable what they decide gets tossed out and it's difficult to resist the temptation to check it now and then and fill up my truck with assorted goodies, not only large countertops but also pieces of laminate scraps,,, some quite large! I picked up some nice blue laminate recently and decided it would be perfect for lining at least one of the bathroom walls. I planned to use vinyl to cover the rest.

Today I applied the vinyl with 3M spray adhesive and rolled it out with the laminate roller,,, without success. I had stored the vinyl flat in hopes that a fold line would "disappear" but the crease appears permanent along with other wrinkles. Here's a pic of the vinyl/laminate corner:


Here's a close-up of the crease:


I'm a bit disappointed. I had done a prior sample test which worked great,,, but the sample piece was un-creased. Additionally, today's application was on a standing wall and I wasn't able to apply clamped pressure to the entire surface. I tried smoothing out the crease using a heat gun but that wasn't successful.

This wall will eventually have a cabinet and sink, so those will cover the goof but I will have to consider a different approach for the remaining two walls. I'm wanting a water-proof lining and would like to avoid having any seams. Maybe if I apply the vinyl to the walls before installing them? I could then clamp it together with another sheet of ply and apply weights. Or, scrap the vinyl idea and cover the walls with a patchwork laminate pattern from my pile of salvaged scraps!

[grizz]

Hi Gary,
I think application before fitting it may be one answer.
Alternately, go in to the people who are using the materials, and ask them the question.... "How do you manage creases ? "

Another thought would be to use the contact glue on both sides, and then when it has gone "off" toy apply the sheet, and use just finger pressure to connect the bits that stand proud.

I would also get a 20ml syringe, and at least a 18 gauge needle, and suck the air, or at least puncture the bubbles, and then again use pressure to flatten, and get the 2 glued sides to bond.

Hope that helps.

I am just off to work..... about 10 minutes late, but had a colleague on the phone teaching me to use a web portal more efficiently.

WEEKEND !!!!

[StPatron]

Thanks, Rian. Those are all great tips.
I'll try them out on this area before proceeding with the other walls, in addition to pre-application.

Enjoy your week-end!

[vtx1029]

Applications like what your doing are hard. I've installed way too many aircraft de-ice boots to count, talk about a nightmare. Try rolling out a 12' long boot and get no bubbles or wrinkles, you can't pop them and boots are really costly so its almost a one shot deal. But you can use the application and theory. Go find some 3M 1300L adhesive. Pour some in a cup and mix in some MEK (you can get it at most hardware stores) to thin the adhesive out just a little thicker then water. Then brush both surfaces with adhesive using a single stroke method, don't overlap your strokes too much and go in the same stroke direction. It takes 10-30 minutes for the adhesive to dry to a tack. apply 3 coats on each. When its just barely tacky then roll the mat up and start in a corner using a roller and slowly roll it and stick it down as you go using a roller (this is a 2 person job) If its not sticking too well you can lightly rub a rag soaked in MEK across the surface to activate the glue some more. if you get bubbles you can pop them with a pin and roll the air out.

One trick you can use to keep it going on straight is mark both surfaces with a center line before laying up the glue the glue is transparent so keeping it aligned straight is easy.

[grizz]

Applications like what your doing are hard. I've installed way too many aircraft de-ice boots to count, talk about a nightmare. Try rolling out a 12' long boot and get no bubbles or wrinkles, you can't pop them and boots are really costly so its almost a one shot deal. But you can use the application and theory. Go find some 3M 1300L adhesive. Pour some in a cup and mix in some MEK (you can get it at most hardware stores) to thin the adhesive out just a little thicker then water. Then brush both surfaces with adhesive using a single stroke method, don't overlap your strokes too much and go in the same stroke direction. It takes 10-30 minutes for the adhesive to dry to a tack. apply 3 coats on each. When its just barely tacky then roll the mat up and start in a corner using a roller and slowly roll it and stick it down as you go using a roller (this is a 2 person job) If its not sticking too well you can lightly rub a rag soaked in MEK across the surface to activate the glue some more. if you get bubbles you can pop them with a pin and roll the air out.


CLEVER.

What is MEK ?

One trick you can use to keep it going on straight is mark both surfaces with a center line before laying up the glue the glue is transparent so keeping it aligned straight is easy.

[StPatron]

Applications like what your doing are hard. I've installed way too many aircraft de-ice boots to count, talk about a nightmare. Try rolling out a 12' long boot and get no bubbles or wrinkles, you can't pop them and boots are really costly so its almost a one shot deal.

Thanks for your suggestions, vtx1029.

Luckily, the size of the material being used on that wall is easily manageable. A 12' piece would be a nightmare!

It's a combination of application error along with permanent creases in the thick vinyl that I don't think can be overcome regardless of adhesive used or technique. That second pic was poor as it didn't highlight the major problem, the crease.

I've experienced permanent creases with other fabrics. Mfrs. sloppily fold the material lengthwise, rarely is it evenly distributed. Then, it remains on the bolt and that fold crease sets over time. Even with cloth, steaming is sometimes unsuccessful. This vinyl is very thick and has a better than average memory.

I plan to lay out the remaining vinyl today and see if I can cover the other walls using pieces cut from each side of the fold crease, even if it means having an overlapping seam or two.

Rian: MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone or Butanone, a solvent.

[StPatron]

When I checked the vinyl today I discovered it was very loosely adhered. So, I decided to try a little experiment by pulling the upper half down and using contact cement on it, same process as used with laminate application. Apply, let dry and then roll out. I used the larger laminate roller on most areas and a small, wooden wallpaper roller on any stubborn areas. Worked great with the exception of the fold crease. Improved but still visible. The spray adhesive performed better in my test sample, go figure.



For the other two walls, I plan to cut out the fold crease, overlap the edges and add trim if needed. Another hurdle cleared. Thanks to all for your suggestions.

In addition to wrestling with the vinyl today, I got the remaining flooring section cut and tarred. I used a paint roller previously but today I double-gloved, grabbed handfuls of goo and smeared it on by hand. Worked much better and very little mess. Cleanup: four gloves in the trash can.

I also cut the aft bulkhead, applied more laminate to the wheel wells and installed my first section of ceiling. Next up, screw down the last of the flooring section, apply vinyl to aft bulkhead, construct divider wall and apply vinyl to it, build desk area and upper cabinet, build bathroom vanity and upper cabinet and,,, the list seems endless but is getting shorter day by day. Enjoying most every minute of it!

[grizz]

Just looked through the thread again, and noticed this again, loved it the first time, love it now.

That will be a great galley or even interior decoration.