Help! No juice at battery wire from vehicle

[deceiver]

I finished my renovation. I've got a marine battery on the tongue and everything works with it.. Yeah!

So, now I figure it's time to connect my trailering package to the trailer and see if I can get 12V power while I'm driving so that I can charge my trailer battery between campsites.

The problem is that my Red hot wire from the connector is dead. I've tested all the other wires.. brakes, turn signals, lights etc.. They all work but the big red hot wire is dead. Yes I had the vehicle started and a good ground while testing with a meter There don't seem to be any blown fuses.
My vehicle is a 2000 chevy Tahoe with the trailering package. The hot wire has never been used before. What am I missing?

[WesGrimes]

I finished my renovation. I've got a marine battery on the tongue and everything works with it.. Yeah!

So, now I figure it's time to connect my trailering package to the trailer and see if I can get 12V power while I'm driving so that I can charge my trailer battery between campsites.

The problem is that my Red hot wire from the connector is dead. I've tested all the other wires.. brakes, turn signals, lights etc.. They all work but the big red hot wire is dead. Yes I had the vehicle started and a good ground while testing with a meter There don't seem to be any blown fuses.
My vehicle is a 2000 chevy Tahoe with the trailering package. The hot wire has never been used before. What am I missing?

I have the 06 Olds Bravada and I remember the dealership saying there was a kit that I needed to buy if I wanted to have power and brakes at the trailer plug. I think it was called the trailer braking kit or maybe it was the squeeze every last dime out of our customers kit .

You might call the dealership's parts department and ask if there is a kit you need for power brakes on the trailer.

[Miriam C.]

Call Chevy! Really it sounds like the kind of issue they have probably heard a few times.

[TENNJIM]

I have a 2000 Chevy S-10. Even with the regular kit, we had to run a seperate 12Volt hot line (fused) from the battery. Some people put in a cut-out switch or auto-acting ignition switch solenoid. These allow removing the connection when engine is off and tow vehicle is still connected to the trailer to keep from running down the tow vehicle battery. If the Hot wire is already there, it possibly has not been connected at the tow-vehicle battery end.

Jim B / Utah

[deceiver]

Hmm... I have battery switches at the hitch that I'm planning on disconnecting with. Manual is find enough for my needs. The wire is a nice heavy one. I'd like to connect it at the front end of the vehicle if it hasn't been already. There's nothing in the manual about it. I wonder where it is located. I'd connect it myself if I knew where the thing was.

[Dale M.]

My 2005 Chevy PU has a FUSE in fuse box under hood that was not factory installed, it was taped to brake controller harness (not installed either) laying under rear seat in rear of cab....

Check for factory FUSE (40 AMP) supplying the connector at rear of TV... Information "may" be in owners manual (at least this where I found it for my vehicle)...

Dale

[deceiver]

I called today. seems that a brake controller harness has to be connected. I supposedly got one with my vehicle (10 yrs ago) I have no idea were it is. Then I have to check the fuse.

[Dale M.]

Seriously doubt it.... Hot lead to rear should be independent of any controller....

Anyway that is why there are owners manuals....

According to owners manual (copy I found online) Check under hood fuse panel (probably over left front fender). FUSE position labeled STUD #1 should power lead to trailer connector... Green 40 Amp fuse...

Check owners manual page 6-60.... Page 6-61 calls it STUD #1 and labels it Accessory Power/Trailer Wiring Feed ...

If you are standing to side of hood (in front of left wheel) and pull off cover to under hood fuse panel it will be the fuse at top left (closest to motor, closest to grill)... Anyway there should be a fuse label/decal under cover....

IF you have lost Owners Manual, a PDF version can be found online...

http://www.devicemanuals.com/guide/Auto ... UVXo=.html

Dale

[deceiver]

Seriously doubt it.... Hot lead to rear should be independent of any controller....

Anyway that is why there are owners manuals....

According to owners manual (copy I found online) Check under hood fuse panel (probably over left front fender). FUSE position labeled STUD #1 should power lead to trailer connector... Green 40 Amp fuse...

Check owners manual page 6-60.... Page 6-61 calls it STUD #1 and labels it Accessory Power/Trailer Wiring Feed ...

If you are standing to side of hood (in front of left wheel) and pull off cover to under hood fuse panel it will be the fuse at top left (closest to motor, closest to grill)... Anyway there should be a fuse label/decal under cover....

IF you have lost Owners Manual, a PDF version can be found online...

http://www.devicemanuals.com/guide/Auto ... UVXo=.html

Dale

Dale, I went out and transfered another fuse temporarily from another location to the one you designated.. Damn if I don't have a hot wire now at my battery connection. If you're ever in Maine I owe you a steak on my BBQ. Many thanks. I was ready to pay to have someone look at it which I usually don't like to do and don't do. Bravo

[deceiver]

Now, The fuse spot that worked when I temporarily moved another fuse into it. I'm just charging a battery on the tongue of the trailer. What fuse size should I put in that spot 30A?

[Dale M.]

The manual specifies a 40 amp.... 30 amp will be ok maybe even a 20amp... As long as the "surge" when you plug connector in does not cause it to pop....

Dale