will glue n screw with titebond iii be enough?

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will glue n screw with titebond iii be enough?

Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:00 pm

hi guys will titebond iii and screws every 4 inches be enough to keep walls together at hwy speeds this will create a strong torsion box. also what can i use for filler before i sand and herculiner the whole thing ? how about titebond iii mixed with sawdust?
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Postby caseydog » Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:33 pm

The glue is going to be doing most of the work. The screws just provide a mechanical backup -- and keep it together while the glue dries. Plus, when you get everything closed up, there's not going to be a way for wind to get in and "pressurize" the cabin.

Screws every four inches is probably serious overkill, but if it makes you feel better, go for it. Just be accurate with the screws -- don't split any wood.

I glued and screwed my walls to the floor and I put a screw approximately every foot.


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Postby S. Heisley » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:33 pm

This is what happens when you take out the screws and try to pry apart a wood frame that has had enough Titebond III used. The wood gives before the glue does:

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And, yes, sawdust mixed with Titebond III makes a handy filler.
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Postby deceiver » Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:22 pm

years ago the govt. spent our tax dollars to test glues. They tested lots of them but found white (elmers) glue to be the best for wood. Now we have others and titebond is an even better evolution of white glue. Titebond three is pretty much the same except water resistant.
i.e. If a 2x4 is glued together properly with titebond and clamps by overlapping 4" and you try to break it. The break will always occur someplace other than the glue joint.
I make guitars. The neck is glued on with white glue. The glue holds a huge amount of tension from the strings.
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Postby Ageless » Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:33 pm

When you use screws to hold a bonded joint; the screws act as clamps. Once the adhesive has set, the screws can be removed.
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Postby starleen2 » Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:25 pm

you'll be just fine with glue and screws - But I echo that every four inches may be overkill on the screws. But to add to the conversation - on the ladybug , I used 3/4" serrated paneling nails to hold the exterior 5mm luan ply to the wall framing while the titebond glue set - no screws showing through and them little nails ain't coming out!
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Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:26 pm

K now I am feeling all fuzzy inside now heh that titebind iii is amazing stuff, I got a gallon of it when I started the build and I might come close to using it up on this camper!

Last big question I have, I need to find a 2 inch aluminum T metal any ideas?
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Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:37 pm

err 1.5

I need to cover the edge of 2x4 and the wall joint. so that actually be a 3 inch metal 1.5 on one side of T and 1.5 on the other side of T
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Postby afreegreek » Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:53 am

titebond is very good glue but it is CABINET MAKING glue. it's not meant to withstand dynamic loads.. for critical joints (sides to floor etc) PL Premium is a much better choice.. it's also a lot cheaper.
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Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:03 am

I have pl200 that I was planning on using for the walls to floor joint along with a T metal. as soon as I can find a T metal heh
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Postby schaney » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:34 am

A good glue joint is stronger than the surounding wood. This is a break test using Titebond II.

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Postby Jst83 » Sun Jun 06, 2010 1:23 pm

:applause: Yes Titebond is great stuff, I started out using liquid nails and switched after a test and it sate up quickly and wouldn't budge.
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:57 am

Speaking of Titebond III – has anybody tried to use it to wet out fiberglass? I think when I try doing some panel tests I’ll include some Titebond specimens just for grins.
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