Eamarquardt offers sage advice and solid math, as usual... Some other wizards on this Forum have nice installs.
See some Websites here to dive in and tweak your System to your needs. Solar House/Off Grid folks already have figured out what you need to know:
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=c ... lar+panels
http://www.irv2.com/forums/
http://www.backwoodssolar.com/
In the 'Tech' section of the 'irv2' Site, some RV folks share their real world Solar insights. A fellow linked from there is VERY keen on what many would consider over-sized Panel -> Battery wiring [#4 vs. #10 AWG], but he makes some sound points. He also advocates putting charging and monitoring right at the Batteries so there's 'no' losses. He advocates charging up a Battery, with the Charger/Tender right there, to whatever the Battery Manf. suggests; not some voltage that is 'conventional' wisdom. These tricks net you more stored energy. This fellow further suggests using a House-quality, not RV, Panel -> Battery Tender/Manager. They have some nice performance subtleties that net you more power.
The newer >200 Watts Panels offer rooftop space economy. Another consideration might be to run the numbers of price/Watt. However, 'big enough' wiring and connectors cause multiple Panels to cost more installed. In the Trade, what you're looking for is 'Balance Of System' [BOS] re: Panel -> Batteries -> Control Electronics sizing WITH some System growth potential, hopefully. One fellow dumps 'excess' wattage into his Electric Water Heater in which he replaced the Anode plug with a resistance heating element.
Tilting Panels toward the Sun, based on Latitude, is one good trick. Following the Sun via [House] tracking Arrays, or Panel relocation throughout the day, can net you >20% more power. Staying out of shadows is another. Panels DO put out power on cloudy days; just not as much, obviously. Water and Snow 'bounce' cause higher Panel output.
Lots of Panels output more wattage in Sun than specified. Big Home Systems have Panels wired in series, not parallel. So the Array outputs high voltage at modest Amps, allowing the wiring to be smaller gauge. This would be unnecessary on a TD. But, this is why Home Systems have up to 600 VDC input specs on some Control electronics.
Knowledge is power, no pun intended, so knowing Battery condition via Instrumentation is key. You can put what are called 'pin jacks' in a convenient spot and plug Multimeter probes into those. This lets you 'recycle' a Multimeter into a Battery readout device w/o having access to the Batteries. Just use 'good size' wire so that the Multimeter reads voltage w/o significant, wire-based, voltage drop losses.