Don & Christi's 6 x 10 Cargo Conversion

[GPW]

Don , anxious to see how your conversion is progressing ... looking GOOD !!!

[d30gaijin]

Don , anxious to see how your conversion is progressing ... looking GOOD !!!

My sister-in-law has been in town visiting since the day we got back from our 4th of July adventure so absolutely no progress made, but it's not her fault. A couple of days after getting back I came down with one of those "Hangs On" type of summer colds (my son had it before me, and still does) so I run too low on energy to get out and do anything after getting home from work. Maybe things will be looking up for this weekend. I'd like to make some progress.

Don

[GPW]

Get Well soon !!!

[d30gaijin]

OK, made a little progress. Added stiffeners/framing to the sink counter top and screwed the counter top down tight to the framing. The counter top is now solid as an oak. Soon will be putting a front cabinet facing and doors between the counter top and the floor but will first lay the linoleum flooring. Linoleum floor is the next big task.

We bought a remnant of commercial grade linoleum large enough to do the 6x10 floor, something I have never worked with before, so will learn, hopefully not the hard way, as we go, but I understand it is a bit different installing commercial grade linoleum than standard household grade linoleum (I have installed household grade linoleum before). Commercial grade is somewhat thicker/stiffer and more brittle than household grade. Thankfully the weather is in the upper 90 degree range, which should help with the commercial grade linoleum flexibility.

If anyone has any advice/tips on installation of commercial grade linoleum it would be welcomed.

Don

[d30gaijin]

Spent most of the day cutting and trimming, trimming and cutting linoleum but I finally have it fitted. I'm glad I only have to do linoleum once!

Tomorrow will be spreading the glue and rolling it down.

[GPW]

D30, Good looking floor !!!

[d30gaijin]

The new commercial grade linoleum floor is now glued, rolled, and in place permanently. Yippy I am glad that job is done.


And now on to other things to get the conversion usable (before it is anywhere near complete i.e., actual completion is a long ways down the "by learning experience" road) but we do expect to take it out once it is usable, although not complete.

Don

[rebapuck]

I recently googled stainless steel screws in aluminum. Apparently there is a problem between the two metals.

I'm still going to use them to attach an awning rail as the rail is painted and will be painted a second time before installation.

[d30gaijin]

I recently googled stainless steel screws in aluminum. Apparently there is a problem between the two metals.

I'm still going to use them to attach an awning rail as the rail is painted and will be painted a second time before installation.

I believe it is called differential metals corrosion but I doubt we'll have a problem with it in the lifetime of our trailers.

Only thing I can suggest is don't buy 18-8 stainless screws. I did and found that they are too soft and the heads break off easily or the Phillips driver slots distorts easily when screwing them into the aluminum cover skin and into the steel frame. Buy 410 stainless screws for their better strength (Only slightly less corrosion resistance). I bought 500 18-8 screws to replace all the exterior screws on our CT and then had to buy them again in 410 SS. I bought both sets of SS screws from http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-screws/=82th01 for $5.60 per hundred (shipping is minimal).

Don

[rebapuck]

Cr@p. They haven't arrived yet, but I'm sure I bought the 18-8. It's just for an awning rail that will be infrequently used.

Another simple solution for electricity, is a power-surge strip. I used that in my VW and Puck. Of course, neither has AC or microwave.

[d30gaijin]

Cr@p. They haven't arrived yet, but I'm sure I bought the 18-8. It's just for an awning rail that will be infrequently used.

Another simple solution for electricity, is a power-surge strip. I used that in my VW and Puck. Of course, neither has AC or microwave.

I'm sure the 18-8 will work fine for you, just use a little caution when screwing them in. I am replacing screws that go into the steel frame of the trailer, lots of screws, so I am using a rather high torque Bosch cordless drill to remove and replace the screws and that's what caused the problem using the 18-8 screws.

I'll have 3 110v AC outlets in the trailer, and all three will be up front so extension cords will get the 110v AC to the rear of the trailer if we need it (along with your excellent idea of using power-surge cords), which I am sure we will if we want to run our laptops. If I need to go external of the trailer then we'll use the campground plug-in (hook-ups) along with a power-surge cord (as long as it isn't raining) or use the generator's outlet if dry camping.

Thank you for the power-surge cord tip.

Don

[Camper]

Hey Don i plan to make my unit removable.There will be a door hat flips down when the uit is not installed.It is a very small unit so not very heavy.I saw a camper in the hall fame.It is ( George Teague's GT Pop up camper)Some good ideas there to check out.
Derrick

[d30gaijin]

Hey Don i plan to make my unit removable.There will be a door hat flips down when the uit is not installed.It is a very small unit so not very heavy.I saw a camper in the hall fame.It is ( George Teague's GT Pop up camper)Some good ideas there to check out.
Derrick

Derrick,

Apparently I am a complete idiot when it comes to searching TTTT. I cannot find the "Hall of Fame," nor anything relating to George Teague"s GT Pop up camper when I do a search. If you have them bookmarked might you have the URL handy?

OK, removable AC unit makes sense, as does the door. Question is; do you have a design planned to support the outside (heavy end) of the AC unit? I suspect some sort of a fold down flap external but I am curious as to what design you might have in mind?

Any help you might provide is greatly appreciated as I am running sort of blind "Designing as I go" but that's exactly what I am doing, designing as I go.

Thanks,
Don

[SmilinJack]

d30gaijin (Don),

The hall of fame is located at the very top left corner of each page. Above the picture click on Hall of Fame. Then just scroll through the various entries til you find the one you're looking for. Here's the link to George Teague's page:

http://home.earthlink.net/~g.teague/

I built a hinged wall and home made storm door for the rear of my trailer out of 3/4" plywood. I then cut a hole in the wall section and mounted an 8,000 BTU window air conditioner in the wall. It will have a flip down door to cover the hole when the AC isn't installed. You can see the pictures of the door and wall in my album. But I haven't posted a picture since I cut the hole in the wall for the AC.

[Camper]

Hey Don
I am not reall computer savy so am not sure how to set up those links .However looks like some one helped u out.As for the support if you look at the picture where i am reaching in thru the side window just below my arm you can see a piece of steel angle where the lights are mounted to,that is where i will have a removable brace to support the ac unit .Also there will be a trim piece wrapped around th ac unit where it goes thru the wall that will also give support. However in your case besides a frame on the ac unit a drop down support could also work for your trailer
Derrick