wall alignment and fender alignment questions

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wall alignment and fender alignment questions

Postby Aint2Proud » Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:53 am

I have a profile that extends over the front and back of my frame by about 1 ft. each way. How have people aligned their walls with each other to the front and back to make sure they are even for spar and roof attachment? IS there a jig or something I could build to help?

second question - I am looking at Kit style fenders - I am figuring on 3 inches of clearance from the top of the tire to the inside of the fender. The rough dimensions of the fenders I have seen are 20 inches high by 42 long. The 20 inches high with my 3 inch clearance measurement will put the bottom of the fender about 6 inches below my frame - does that sound right? I don't have the fenders yet, so sorry no pics.

Thanks,
Ryan
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Re: wall alignment and fender alignment questions

Postby bobhenry » Thu Jul 22, 2010 10:35 am

Aint2Proud wrote:I have a profile that extends over the front and back of my frame by about 1 ft. each way. How have people aligned their walls with each other to the front and back to make sure they are even for spar and roof attachment? IS there a jig or something I could build to help?

Thanks,
Ryan


I first thought you were worried about one wall being further forward than the other but that too easy measure the overhang.

Upon rereading I think I better understand your delima you are trying to keep the walls running parallel in the vertical direction. Many use the factory corner of the ply material cut off as a giant framing square. I built my galley wall and installed it first to keep the walls square to the floor and running parallel. In the nose I cut a temporary spreader that measured exactly the width of the galley wall. There was still too much wiggle in the nose after installing both walls so I cut a square and true piece of osb the exact width of my galley wall and installed along with another spreader this made the 2 spreaders into a shear panel and eliminated 90% of the wiggle.

If you are worried about your spars not running 90 degrees to the wall simply mark the location of each spare ON BOTH SHEETS at the same time while they are loose and can be laid face to face. ( I hate to admit it but on my 4x7 I failed to do this and wound up with 2 spars on the nose running up hill 1 1/2" off last week. :oops:

P.S. If you mark centerline to centerline you eliminate the chance of aligning to the wrong side of the line. ( like I did )[/b]
Last edited by bobhenry on Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Aint2Proud » Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:37 am

You were correct with the first thought - I am worried about one wall being further forward. What is "the overhand"? I was going to set up a temporary wall squared to the tongue and run both walls forward until they touched it, but was wondering if there was a better way.

For the vertical I have deadmans built that are squared and plan to run a few initial spars. Along with the deadmans that should keep them plum while the glue dries.

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Postby bobhenry » Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:49 am

Sorry typo "Overhang"

tape measure to the front or rear frame cross tube and they should be equal.

If you can measure diagonally across the trailer the diagonals will be equal when the walls are square with each other also.

Maybe you can just back it into the wall :laughter:
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Postby Aint2Proud » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:08 pm

Maybe you can just back it into the wall

That is basically the jig I was thinking about!

I have measured and remeasured, just looking for a fool proof way. Thanks.

Anyone have insight on the fender question?
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Postby aggie79 » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:37 pm

Aint2Proud wrote:That is basically the jig I was thinking about!

I have measured and remeasured, just looking for a fool proof way.


Like Bob, I cut a jig from a piece of scrap MDF. The only difference is that I cut it full width so that it plumbs both walls at the same time.

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Aint2Proud wrote:Anyone have insight on the fender question?


I'm almost to this point in my build. I think you are using the clearance that most recommend. I may try to go a little lower because I want the tire up inside the fender. As far as how low it hangs below the frame, this depends upon the distance your axle is from the lower edge of the sidewall and the diameter of the tire.

The bottom of my fenders will work out to be almost even with the bottom of the sidewall but my sidewalls overhang the frame, I'm using a tall tire, and my the hub of my torsion axle is even with the frame.
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Postby Gage » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:39 pm

Aint2Proud wrote: Anyone have insight on the fender question?

Just center the fender opening to the wheel/tire and attach to side wall of tear. Piece of cake. :thumbsup:
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Postby rladams39 » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:59 pm

All you need to do is measure your walls length, make some marks for the center of your walls. Then measure your floor and do the same mark the centers.
Then when you install your walls,just line up the center marks on the wall with the ones on the floor..

If your front and rear ovehang are the same amount this will work out just fine.. If you have more overhang towards say the front, lets say the front overhangs 2 inches more than the rear, just move your mark on the walls toward the rear 2 inches to achieve your overhang..
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:19 am

Especially make sure that the two sides get marked well when they are lying on the floor together. You could get marks for both fore/aft alignment as well as the stringer layouts as was mentioned earlier.

Also the idea of putting in some interior structure will help keep the walls upright and square.
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