I used Titebond 2 to make my floor - was that bad ?

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I used Titebond 2 to make my floor - was that bad ?

Postby tcolar » Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:29 pm

I built my floor using titebond 2 ... today I read several negatives thing about it, such as "creeping under load"... whatever that means ... and maybe also problems with freeze/thaw cycles .....

I've read in other places it was one of the best waterproof glue for wood to wood ... anyway lots of confusing data/infos out there.

Anyway now I'm a bit worried, anybody got any good/bad experience with that stuff.

Note: I'm still gonna seal the underside with epoxy+foam+henry 204, so that might help too.
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Postby Ageless » Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:33 pm

Titebond 2 is NOT waterproof. Titebond 3 is. However if you seal the exterior from the elements; it should work OK.
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Postby tcolar » Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:39 pm

You are right TB2 is "water resistant", not waterPROOF like TB3.
But yes, either way it will be sealed.

Just hoping it's strong enough, wouldn't want the floor plywood to leave the wooden frame ! Of course i did put some 1+'' screws(not much strength there) in and the bolts will be going through both layers to the metal frame, so i'm probably ok, it's just that some stuff i read today worried me about TB2.
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Postby planovet » Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:49 pm

As long as it's sealed, you should have no problems. It's plenty strong enough to hold.
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Postby Ageless » Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:50 pm

I found Gorilla glue makes a wood glue now that is waterproof and cheaper than TB3. I've used it a few times but having put it to the test yet. I did have one joint I had to reset and it took several smacks with the hammer to break loose. The bonding looked good and it didn't take pieces of wood at the break; clean break of the bond
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Postby GPW » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:03 pm

A friend of mine who makes guitars with T2 (New Orleans Guitar Co. ), had a few guitars underwater for several weeks (Katrina) ... None of them came apart in any way ...the wood was horribly stained (and smelly) ,the electronics were corroded , but the glue joints never let go :thumbsup:
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Postby tcolar » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:46 pm

@Ageless, a clean break of the bond is nice when you want to "reset", but I think in theory the best bond would have the wood break before the bond (the bond is stronger than the wood) ... of course that's theory.

@GPW Thanks for the info, sometimes it's quite interesting & telling to see what's still standing in the aftermath of a natural disaster like quakes, hurricanes, heavy snow etc ... like you will see whole houses leveled but a phone booth unscratched etc...
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Postby Arne » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:46 pm

I used titebond 2 on my entire trailer.. then sealed and painted it. Never a problem... I bought it by the gallon and put it into a smaller container to use.
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Postby tcolar » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:49 pm

@Arne: Yeah that's what I've been doing, definitely liking the ease of use & cleanup.

I also use some liquid nails here an there to fill larger gaps ... TB2 is just too runny for any kind of gaps.
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Postby xddorox » Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:16 pm

I don't know if it is available everywhere, but I've used PL Premium construction glue in other projects and I intend to use it for my current build. 9 000 lbs of test strength is hard to beat. Might be more expensive though.

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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:26 pm

If the glue is capable of making a bond that is stronger than the wood, then it is strong enough. I used TB2 throughout. It's as good as it needs to be for a teardrop that will be sealed.
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