Floor and routing electrical under the trailer

[Aint2Proud]

I have my floor finished and didn't plan well enough for the electrical. I am planning on running the electrical through 1/2" PVC. My framing is 2x4 (thicker than original due to another issue ) and my floor is 1/2" ply.

My question is - Will my floor be sturdy enough if I route a channel big enough for the PVC to go through across each crossmember directly in the center of the trailer (approx. 1.25 inches by 1.25 inches)? To visualize it see attached picture and draw a line down the center of the floor from front to back and that is where the channel/pvc will be.



I have done a small test piece and it is still strong. In addition there will be 3/8 bolts through the floor, crossmember and 2x2 steel tube of the trailer on either side of the channel so the portion of the crossmember with the channel shouldn't see any stress.

Thanks for any thoughts,

Ryan[/img]

[wannabefree]

With 2x2 tubing under it? Sure. You've got plenty of overkill.

[Muggnz]

why not clip the tubing to the wood?

david

[Cliffmeister2000]

I ran the wiring to the back of my trailer through a 1/2 inch piece of PVC. I ran it under the frame, and used clips and plumbers tape to secure it.

[planovet]

I would go with the clips too, that's what I did. I used flexible tubing and ran it from the tongue box to the galley. No problems so far. I would hate to reduce the strength of your cross-members by routing a groove in them. Will you still have plenty of strength? Probably but why take a chance.

[GPW]

Might consider using the thicker schedule 80 PVC for the wiring , better at resisting rocks and stuff ... ... and I would mount it with the clips as indicated ^... easier to repair/replace , just in case ..... wouldn't weaken the floor frame with any routing/ channels /holes /etc. either ... my 2 cents ...

[Aint2Proud]

I appreciate the comments. I was ready to go on the routing idea for the past two nights and just couldn't pull the trigger. I have had my own personal saying throughout this build that has served me well - "If you don't have to do it right now - don't do it. Wait until you have the right answer".

This answer just wasn't coming to me. The main reason for the routed channel would have been to keep the wires above the trailer frame for aesthetic purposes. I have good clearance under the trailer so that isn't a concern. I believe the clips and blue flexible tubing is the way I will go.

How do you split the wires off for marker lights with the blue tubing? Do they have fittings like pvc or do you just slice a hole and tape the junction where you have wires that split off?

Thanks again.

Ryan

[GeoDrop]

Could you route the wires in the "ceiling/roof" instead of the floor?

I appreciate the comments. I was ready to go on the routing idea for the past two nights and just couldn't pull the trigger. I have had my own personal saying throughout this build that has served me well - "If you don't have to do it right n
ow - don't do it. Wait until you have the right answer".

This answer just wasn't coming to me. The main reason for the routed channel would have been to keep the wires above the trailer frame for aesthetic purposes. I have good clearance under the trailer so that isn't a concern. I believe the clips and blue flexible tubing is the way I will go.

How do you split the wires off for marker lights with the blue tubing? Do they have fittings like pvc or do you just slice a hole and tape the junction where you have wires that split off?

Thanks again.

Ryan

[planovet]

Could you route the wires in the "ceiling/roof" instead of the floor?

That's where I ran most of my wiring. The only wiring I ran under the trailer was for the brake light on the hatch and the main wires from my tongue box (battery) to the galley (power center).

I don't know if the blue tubing has fittings or not. I just ran it from point A to point B and did not need to split it off.

[Cliffmeister2000]

I ran the PVC just like Mark did, from the battery box in front to the power center in the back. I used wire wrap to bring wires from the back to the rear sidemarker lights, and from the battery box distribution center to the front sidemarker lights. My battery goes to a distribution panel in the front, as do all the wires from the 7 contact cable that connects to my truck. From there, most go to the power center in the galley.

[aggie79]

I don't know if the blue tubing has fittings or not. I just ran it from point A to point B and did not need to split it off.

They do have fittings which allow you to attach them to junction boxes - plastic or otherwise.

[Miriam C.]

The 1/2" plywood is enough floor by it's self so what you do to the 2x's is fine. Personally I would run it on the bottom just to keep water from having a hole to get in.

[Muggnz]

How do you split the wires off for marker lights with the blue tubing? Do they have fittings like pvc or do you just slice a hole and tape the junction where you have wires that split off?

Ryan

The solid tubes have special inspection/junction "boxes" enabling changes of direction. Perhaps these will fit the plastic tubes.

BTW I suspect that the the blue tube will accumulate more dirt than smooth tubing.

david

[dh]

I'm using the clips as stated above, and nobody brought it up, so I will. I really like to use rivits to hold the clips to the frame, they won't loosen up with vibration like threaeded fasteners can.

[planovet]

BTW I suspect that the the blue tube will accumulate more dirt than smooth tubing.

Possibly so especially since I left the ends open. But all the wiring I ran through them is shielded so I'm not concerned. It was more to keep them from snagging on something than keeping them clean.