Taller Wall ....

[NathanL]

You can buy 16' plywood if you live in the right locations in either 4' or 5' wide.

But....it's just factory scarfed 8' pieces. I've bought lots of it for boatbuilding. I have a jig that makes scarj joints for plywood (and dimenional stock) and they come out great...but you can see the joints even if they are 100% smooth.

You can buy 5'x10' and 4'x10' MDO plywood just about everywhere in the country. However it has no grain on the face, instead it has resin impregnated paper that holds paint/fiberglass/epoxy extremely well but wouldn't be worth squat for a grain face.

My first teardrop I built with MDO because I wanted it 9'6" long. Just used one piece (no seam) and only had to paint it when done and I glassed the edge connection to the roof with 6" tape.

[Billy K]

Larry, you're right. The cost is gonna rise with a two sided veneer. But, I would then go with the 3/4(plus veneer) walls and not buy the pre-made doors....offset?

I know there are gonna be some things I want but, can't quite get....it's just that the free and clear woody side is the kicker (to me).

As for glue. I will use epoxy to seal the wood and then a contact cement unless I find out that the epoxy will do the trick. I'll be hoping for glue suggestions.

Did find out that the 5x9 ping pong board is hardwood plywood, not MDO or MDF.

[Larry C]

Larry, you're right. The cost is gonna rise with a two sided veneer. But, I would then go with the 3/4(plus veneer) walls and not buy the pre-made doors....offset?

I know there are gonna be some things I want but, can't quite get....it's just that the free and clear woody side is the kicker (to me).

As for glue. I will use epoxy to seal the wood and then a contact cement unless I find out that the epoxy will do the trick. I'll be hoping for glue suggestions.

Did find out that the 5x9 ping pong board is hardwood plywood, not MDO or MDF.

Veneering such a large surface with contact cement seems logical. However, contact cement softens in the sun which could break the bond of the veneer and let it float. Thickened epoxy would probably be better, but getting the veneer flat would require uniform weighting.
Are you planning to cover the exterior of the veneer with glass/epoxy?

Larry

[George Taylor]

They wayI did our tear was fairly easy and did not waste much. I used 5/8 CDX plywood fo the sides. On the inside I cut some of the scrap into 1 inch stips so I could insuate the walls. Where I had to extend the wall from 8' to 10' I just used a 6" wide peice of the plywood and used construction adhesive and screws. For the inside paneling I used Baltic Birch plywood, it comes in 5'x5' sheets.

[Billy K]

I've looked into renting a vacuum system to help the bonding process.

Will probably use the epoxy for glue and then epoxy and clear coat is the plan. The contact cement is one method I've been learning about.

I've never used the cloth but may need to do that....then clear coat.
I've had a couple of different opinions on; cloth or no cloth...

With so much time between now and 'cash in hand'; I may change back to butt joints and sandwich walls. I would use the cloth for sure then. The idea would be 1/4" ply that would need two jonts and the cloth would help smooth them before veneering.

[afreegreek]

Larry, you're right. The cost is gonna rise with a two sided veneer. But, I would then go with the 3/4(plus veneer) walls and not buy the pre-made doors....offset?

I know there are gonna be some things I want but, can't quite get....it's just that the free and clear woody side is the kicker (to me).

As for glue. I will use epoxy to seal the wood and then a contact cement unless I find out that the epoxy will do the trick. I'll be hoping for glue suggestions.

Did find out that the 5x9 ping pong board is hardwood plywood, not MDO or MDF.

Veneering such a large surface with contact cement seems logical. However, contact cement softens in the sun which could break the bond of the veneer and let it float. Thickened epoxy would probably be better, but getting the veneer flat would require uniform weighting.
Are you planning to cover the exterior of the veneer with glass/epoxy?

Larry

laying up wood veneer with contact cement is a big no-no... unless you like bubbles in your veneer..

[afreegreek]

if you want to lay up wood veneer and don't have a vacuum pump, you can do it with white or yellow carpenter's glue.. you water it down about 10% and roll it on both surfaces... SMOOTHLY.. when it is dry, iron the veneer down.. this will give you a permanent bond.

[Billy K]

That's a thought..I can run an iron. Use to make fairly crisp creases and flat pockets..