Compact III -- New Modification w/ front galley

[myoung]

Here's the chassis plan. Some modifications from Andrew's plan, apart from increasing the width 2 inches and the length by 13, include the relocation of the axle 10 inches forward to account for the reversal of the galley and the addition of another angle cross brace under the most trafficked area of the floor for more stiffness and for a place to attach bands that will support the holding tank.

I wonder if these small changes in dimension are sufficient to warrant the larger longitudinal box sections of 3 x 2 rather than the Compact III size of 2 x 2, especially since I doubt that my build will be much heavier than Andrew's original conception. I'd sure like to gain that extra inch in interior height if it doesn't compromise structural integrity.

[myoung]

Here's a section thru the rear showing the angle cross piece that will anchor the trailer in the rear. The front angle cross piece isn't as close to the front as the rear is to the rear (that sounds funny). According to the design I'm following, the only bolts securing the floor to the frame will be placed on these angle cross pieces.

I have two questions. First, how large should these bolts be? And second, how many should there be or how far apart should I place the bolts?

Advice more than welcome, since I have no experience in this area. Thanks in advance.

[starleen2]

Perhaps - according to your drawing is to use 3/4 X 2 furring strips or else you'll have 1/4 gap in your walls. I wouldn't short yourself on the width of the strips to attach cabinets - that extra inch might help in finding the strip!

[Cliffmeister2000]

Perhaps - according to your drawing is to use 3/4 X 2 furring strips or else you'll have 1/4 gap in your walls. I wouldn't short yourself on the width of the strips to attach cabinets - that extra inch might help in finding the strip!

Isn't 1 x lumber always 3/4" finished?

[myoung]

I'm using the nominal dimensions of the furring strips. My drawing is to scale of finished dimensions of all materials.

1x2 is finished to 3/4 x 1-1/2.

1 x 1 is finished to 3/4 x 3/4.

1 x 3 is finished to 3/4 x 2-1/2.

Pretty sure this is standard notation.

[Ageless]

Be careful with so-called 'furring strips' I bout a bundle at HD and they varied in width buy +/- 1.8"

[myoung]

Be careful with so-called 'furring strips' I bout a bundle at HD and they varied in width buy +/- 1.8"

I plan to use poplar rather than pine or other soft wood. I've checked dimensions at local yards including HD and am confident I'll get what I need. The cost will be a bit more but I'm worth it.

[Cliffmeister2000]

I've gotten the best prices in Phoenix on poplar at Arizona Hardwoods on Thomas just west of I17 on the north side of the street.

[starleen2]

I mentioned 3/4 because I cut my own strips on a table saw to match the exact width of the 3/4 foam insulation - when i say 1 inch - that's what i meant not inferring to industry standards - sorry about that

[myoung]

I've gotten the best prices in Phoenix on poplar at Arizona Hardwoods on Thomas just west of I17 on the north side of the street.

Thanks for the source, Cliff. I'll check it out.

[myoung]

I've been working on the tongue box trying to fit a 20-lb gas bottle and an AGM battery inside. With the chassis dimensions shown previously, I was having trouble squeezing the box, the bottle, and the battery in without adding unnecessary length over the A-frame.

My solution was to move the A-frame and angle front cross braces forward by 3 inches. That makes the base of the trapezoidal-shaped box (the face that adjoins the front of the trailer) wide enough to accommodate both the bottle and the battery. In fact, it seems that I might be able to drop both 4 inches and put the floor of the box at the bottom of the box section frame rather than above it.

I think I will have to have the bottle and battery available for a final decision.

Another byproduct of moving the A-frame forward a bit is a small increase in the tongue weight. This is probably a good think, because another problem I have yet to resolve is whether or not to add stabilizers in the rear corners. I'd rather not so having more weight forward may tip the scale in favor of eliminating them. I suppose I could also move the axle rearward a bit more too.

Here's the sketch of the tongue box to be fabricated from diamond tread plate.


And, here is the result of moving the A-frame forward by 3 inches.

[Ageless]

You realize that one of the areas will need to be sealed off? Placing a propane bottle near a battery; a source of a possible explosive situation. The propane will require bottom venting; the battery, upper venting

[myoung]

You realize that one of the areas will need to be sealed off? Placing a propane bottle near a battery; a source of a possible explosive situation. The propane will require bottom venting; the battery, upper venting

I am aware of the issue. I would put a partition between the bottle and the battery. The battery will be an AGM type so no gas discharge is expected. I'd drill holes in the floor below the gas bottle.

On my Airstream, the two 30-lb gas bottles sit in front of and above the two AGM batteries that are suspended between the A-frame. I should think that if there was an issue with the proximity of the two and the relative positions, something would have been done about it by now.

I'd like to know more about the real hazard, if any. It just doesn't seem to be such a big deal with other installations I have seen.

[vtx1029]

If your building the trailer from scratch why not put the battery mounted on the frame under the body of the camper closer to the axle? It would help out on reducing tong weight + less chance of someone steeling it.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-In-Battery-Box,3455.html

[myoung]

If your building the trailer from scratch why not put the battery mounted on the frame under the body of the camper closer to the axle? It would help out on reducing tong weight + less chance of someone steeling it.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-In-Battery-Box,3455.html

Yes, I like the idea of putting the battery underneath somewhere. I started researching on the Forum and found your references to Speedway Motors and have bookmarked it for more research. I would rather not put a trap door in the floor for access but if I could mount it close enough to the perimeter, perhaps I could get at it someday when necessary.

Since my frame is a 3 x 2 box section, the battery would extend down say 5 inches below the frame, which would give a ground clearance of only 6 inches in the unloaded position. I wonder if this would be enough. What do you think?

The least amount of variation between ground and frame while bouncing down the road would seem to be right at the axle. I plan to use a Dexter torque axle, so I could probably attach a weld-on box to the axle itself. Does this make sense?

I want to use an AGM battery whose dimensions seem to be a little wider than conventional batteries and it seems that the Speedway boxes might not accommodate the AGMs. I'll have to research it a bit more.

As far as tongue weight is concerned, I might actually prefer more so that I can avoid the nuisance of stabilizers. We have 4 stabilizers on our Airstream and almost never use them. Our Dodge Durango can take quite a bit of tongue weight with no adverse consequence.

Thanks for your advice.