Will this work for framing?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby Arne » Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:52 am

Unless you plan on making the box removable, I would blend it into the tear body, with no gap at the bottom..... so it would not look separate, more like a bump-out of the tear itself.

This is on a much smaller scale, but if I were to put a box on, it would fit in a similar fashion.....

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Postby Micro469 » Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:00 pm

Victor, Why not make the radius of the back of the box the same as the front of the tear? I think it would look a lot more pleasing and also stop dirt and roadspray from collecting there.
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Postby Micro469 » Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:02 pm

Arny beat me to it :lol:
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Postby madjack » Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:14 pm

VS, checkout this link for some pics of how we did the same basic thing to our tear
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Postby Darren » Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:20 am

Thanks again. I had thought about doing it that way and can't remember why I decided against it. It will look better that way and add a lot of strength to the front, more storage is good also. I'm working on another revision and I'm sure I'll have more questions.

I'm struggling now with how wide to make the front box. It seems like it always comes down to appearance or functionality.

madjack - Thanks for your post on the HF 20% coupon. I got my 1800# trailer this morning and to my surprise it was on sale for $299 so with the coupon and tax it came to 258 and change. :thumbsup:
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Postby Ira » Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:54 am

Cubby builders...or anyone else who remembers:

Does the 1800# HF trailer "require" modification as Kuffel instructs for the Cubby? I'm just bringing this up to make Victor aware of something that Kuffel definitely recommends for the lighter HF trailer that I myself used.

Victor, it has to do with not exactly following the HF assembly instructions, and instead, taking two of your supplied crossbar members and inserting/bolting them where the two side rails meet on each side, to strengthen the side rails. You then add a wooden cross member support in the middle, because you'll now be short one steel cross member.

This is for Cubby plans...I don't remember if they tell you to do this for the 1800# model too...or whether you really need to do it this way in the first place.
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Postby toypusher » Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:25 am

Yes, either trailer will need to be modified.
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Postby Darren » Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:02 pm

I have the cubby manual but I'll be deviating a lot from it. I'll be cutting both the width and length of the trailer down.

I was thinking the lighter duty trailer would ride better with the lighter springs but then again I could pull a leaf if the 1800# is to stiff.
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Postby madjack » Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:03 pm

Victor Star wrote:I have the cubby manual but I'll be deviating a lot from it. I'll be cutting both the width and length of the trailer down.

I was thinking the lighter duty trailer would ride better with the lighter springs but then again I could pull a leaf if the 1800# is to stiff.


...keep in mind that spring capacity should be around 50% greater than gross weight..........................
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Postby Ira » Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:42 pm

You're gonna cut it down? It's 4 by 8, so why would you make it smaller? The length AND the width???

If you're thinkng about cutting that length a few inches to allow for the front inward curvature/radius, I would HIGHLY recommend the hell with it. Just modify the rest of the plans to match your full 4 by 8 frame.

A few extra inches of floor ain't gonna kill you, and you'll be the first on your block to do it like this.

But why would you make it narrower?
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Postby Darren » Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:12 am

I really appreciate any input so keep it coming, I'm as new to this as they come.

Ira - I know most people think I'm nuts for making a 4' wide trailer but for my needs I think it'll work. (Disclamer....I always think I'm right and the future often proves me wrong.) Maybe I'm just laying the ground work for tear #2. :D BTW - I really like your trailer. :thumbsup: very cool.

I keep working on my design with the in the newest revision I may not change the length. (I need to plan out everything before asking questions.) I think the width needs to be changed so I can tuck the sides over the frame and still be able to use 4' wide material on the roof. I've been through a lot of revisions and I usually choose appearance over functionality.

My use will mostly be for 3 or 4 campouts a year and bringing along to car shows, not showing next year, just hanging out with my club. I hope that changes and I start heading out every chance I get for weekend retreats.

Thanks again.
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Postby madjack » Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:31 am

VS...the whole wall does not need to come down over the sides...just aluminum will be sufficient...checkout SteveH's tear...that is what he did to cover the frame...a lot simpler than cutting down the trailer...
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Postby Ira » Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:43 am

Victor Star wrote:.

Ira - I know most people think I'm nuts for making a 4' wide trailer but for my needs I think it'll work


A lot of us here did 4-feet wide, but like Madjack said, you don't have to narrow the width.
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Postby Micro469 » Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:27 pm

Madjack, I like your front box.Personally, I'd like to have more of a curve in the front, but that would be easy to do with your design. If you don't mind, I'd like to try to incorporate that in my tear. :)
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Postby madjack » Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:44 pm

Well since we "borrowed" the basic idea from Camp_Inn I don't see how I could object one litle bit :D ..................... 8)
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