tongue length

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tongue length

Postby tuber » Fri Nov 05, 2010 6:54 pm

I have an old Gator tilt boat trailer that I am going to use for a TTT. It has a tongue that is almost six feet long from the front of the A frame to the coupler. An 8 foot TTT sitting on the frame exposes about 20 inches of the A frame. There is about 7 feet 8 inches from the front of the TTT to the coupler. I want to shorten the tongue for two reasons. First, I would like the trailer to be in the same state as me when I tow it. Second I would like to increase the tongue weight. I can use the trailer spread sheet to devise a length of tongue that would give me a good tongue weight but I am wondering if there is a minimum length of tongue that should exist either from the front of the TTT or the A frame?
:thinking:
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Postby Lou Park » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:39 pm

My only thought is whether or not you plan to add a tongue box. If so, mark that out and then start from there.
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Postby tuber » Fri Nov 05, 2010 8:01 pm

Lou,
Thanks for the question. Yes, I am planning on having a tongue box. Initial plans have it ending at the junction of the A frame and the tongue. It will extend to within 12 inches of each side of the TTT. All this depends upon total trailer weight, tongue weight, and minimum tongue length. What I'm concerned about is some type of diatance for bumper turning radius or similar calculation.
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Postby Lou Park » Fri Nov 05, 2010 8:58 pm

I'm not an expert at most everything, but I would measure the back of the tow vehicle at the widest part and cut that number in half. Thats the final length (from tongue box) I would want to the end of the tongue where the hitch connects.
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Postby doug hodder » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:39 pm

Since you already have the trailer...I'd just go ahead and build the tear, add on the tongue box...then cut it to the length you want after it's done to suit your needs. It's a lot easier to cut it down than add some on if you cut it too short from the get go. Don't know what you tow with....but if it's a pickup or an SUV with a lift hatch...make sure to allow clearance and body area to load the vehicle. Shorter tongues also turn quicker when backing. Just some thoughts. Doug
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Postby bobhenry » Sat Nov 06, 2010 1:04 am

doug hodder wrote:Since you already have the trailer...I'd just go ahead and build the tear, add on the tongue box...then cut it to the length you want after it's done to suit your needs. It's a lot easier to cut it down than add some on if you cut it too short from the get go. Don't know what you tow with....but if it's a pickup or an SUV with a lift hatch...make sure to allow clearance and body area to load the vehicle. Shorter tongues also turn quicker when backing. Just some thoughts. Doug


Doug's statement about P/u trucks got me thinking. Remember you may want a tongue jack and they have a habit of getting in the way of the tailgate in the down position. You may also want to allow 18" extra for the tail gate in the down position. The tail gate corner will really mess up a tongue box in a tight turn or getting jack knifed while backing up.
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Postby tuber » Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:20 pm

Thank you all for the good ideas. Please keep them coming.

I'm not planning on cutting anything until I'm done and ready to tow it away. Just doing the math with the current tongue length gives me a tongue weight of almost nothing. If the kithen weighs up I'm afraid of having a negative tongue weight. Never a good idea!!!!

I do have a tongue jack. My original thinking was to take my truck width, plus tailgate factor, and divide by two and add this distance to the front of the tongue box, then install coupler. Having no experience in this I figured it was too simplistic and I was overlooking some very significant and critical point I would only diacover upon towing or backing for the first time. One of those moments we all look forward to!!!

It seems like this idea might not have been too far off. I'll wait until I get it built, weigh it up, calculate the real loads and then cut it off, I hope.
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Postby bobhenry » Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:34 am

Hook the trailer to the truck back up and jackknife until corner of tail gate in the down position is directly over the center tube and mark it. I would add about 12" for the swale effect where you are going up or down an incline at the same moment. You could stretch your build forward and the tongue weight will come up as you get closer and closer to completion. Cabinets in the front with cabinet doors and junk in them. Possibly a small TV or stereo should you choose to sleep head to the galley wall as we do. Weights and balance as you build. Do not be afraid to build out over the tongue. 2' of the front of my barn is cantalivered out over thin air. Build pics are in my album.
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