Maximum size floor plan on a HF 4 by 8 trailer ?

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Maximum size floor plan on a HF 4 by 8 trailer ?

Postby MisterTFM » Fri Nov 26, 2010 6:43 pm

I'm looking to use the 1720 Lb. Capacity HF 48" x 96" Utility Trailer but would like to extend the floor plan base to at least 60" x 108" or 120" without modifying the actual steel frame.

Extending the width another 6 inches on either side by building out past the wheels looks simple enough, but are there any strength issues doing this? That would put the weight of the side walls out past the wheels. Would this require using 2" by 4" for the floor for additional strength ?

What about extending the length 6 inches towards the tongue and another 6 inches to the rear ?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

TIA
1996, Honda, ST1100, 115k miles

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Postby bobhenry » Fri Nov 26, 2010 7:13 pm

Chubby is 67" wide out to out and 120" nose to tail on a modified HF 4x8.

Modified might be a mild statment since I tossed the frame away and only use the tongue assembly and the axle cradle but I am familiar with the frame and its pecularities.

I would not try and cantaliver all 4 directions. Let the rear fall on the rear crossmember. If I were to do it I would make a 2x4 halo 5' by 10' or your desired dimensions with a 2x4 frame standing on edge.

Note : I had to go 5' 3" wide to clear the tires and then the 2x4 halo making the trailer 5' 7" wide for tire clearance but I only raised mine 2" your floor might clear but it is something to check !

Internal "joists" would be ran side to side shifting as needed to hit the cross members but do not excede 24" center to center except if necessary at the wheel wells.
Apply a diaphram to the bottom after checking diagionally to be certain you are square . I would probably use 1/2 " sheet goods. Next I would fill the cavities from the top with blue foam board this will insulate and add quite a bit of resistance to racking of the floor. Next apply the top diaphram this acts as a truss to help keep the 2x4 joist from bending. This is your floor. The H.F. tongue is rather anemic for a 1300 #+ 5 x10 trailer. My album shows 3 rebuilds to avoid problems. Leaving the stock tongue in place a 2x2x1/4 sq tube can be added to the center and I suggest it is ran from front to rear and bolted or welded to each and every crossmember. Extend the tongue 18" to 24" longer than the stock tongue for improved towing and backing up. The pictures in the album pretty much show all you need to know. Now install your floor but let it start flush with the rear crossmember remembering the now extended tongue and existing tongue can be utilized to support the leading edge of the trailer floor. Here is your base and a nicely reinforced tongue that will handle the weight and support the added length.

Here is Harvey's " Nobody 's " tongue repair

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Postby bobhenry » Fri Nov 26, 2010 7:52 pm

Here is the man who unknowingly lead me by the hand with this pictorial.

I thank him everytime I hook up .

http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=190079&highlight=#190079
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Postby Steve_Cox » Fri Nov 26, 2010 8:57 pm

Here's a HF 1,725# frame that was stretched to 10 feet by using a couple of the cross members for extending the side rails. I built out over the frame for the gypsy trailer.

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Added some bed frame angle iron to make a well so the trailer would be a standy.

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Postby satch » Fri Nov 26, 2010 9:51 pm

Did the same as Steve C, but only to 9'. I overhung the sides 6", each side for a 5x9. I had to cut/lenghten the axle ( I didn't want to tub the wheels), so it's do-able
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Postby Toytaco2 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:10 pm

Here's my 5x9 on the 1,720 HF frame, plus, its 5' high as well. Like Steve said, you can stretch it out to 10 feet if you want. That's the cool thing about these little trailers...you can build them the way you want.

Good Luck,

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Postby Steve_Cox » Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:22 am

[quote="slowcowboy"]neato folks. SO I am not the only one doing scary things with a motifed harbor freight 4x8 trailer frame!

I do like the canoe or boat trailer in the background on the gypsy trailer motifed photo. interesting concept.

does the foot well ever give you clearence problems on the gypys trailer like on humps speed bumps and things like that? Just courios? SLowcowboy.[/quote ]

Nope 8) Speed bumps average 3 to 4 inches, they just feel taller. My trailer clearance sitting level is 7 1/2" but I trail it a little higher than level.
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Postby MisterTFM » Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:06 pm

satch wrote:Did the same as Steve C, but only to 9'. I overhung the sides 6", each side for a 5x9. I had to cut/lenghten the axle ( I didn't want to tub the wheels), so it's do-able


Rick, how did you go about stretching the axle ?

I like the look of the wheels and fenders on the outside of the floor, but was willing to sacrifice the look for another 12" of inside floor space.
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Postby MisterTFM » Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:08 pm

Toytaco2 wrote:
Here's my 5x9 on the 1,720 HF frame, plus, its 5' high as well. Like Steve said, you can stretch it out to 10 feet if you want. That's the cool thing about these little trailers...you can build them the way you want.

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Mike, any guess on what your 5x9 weighs ?

Approximately where did you place the axle with relationship to the rear ?

Do you have a Build Journal on line and if so, a linkie please?
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Postby Toytaco2 » Sat Nov 27, 2010 9:02 pm

I've never weighed the trailer. I estimate its somewhere between 1,000 and 1,200 lbs. It tows behind my V6 Tacoma 4x4 like its not even there. I didn't try to keep all my posts together in a build journal, but, there are lots of pics in my album from beginning to end. If I remember correctly, the center of the axle was around 39-40 inches from the rear.

Good Luck,
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