Insulation on Ceiling

[BC Dave]

BC Dave wrote:

from Perm...

Again? What did I do to deserve this again?

Repeat: I've never had a perm in my life.

oh your so sensitive about tha; note that I have" typos galore-ous" ....

[Prem]

Ok BC Deva. You're forgiven.

[dudleydoright]

Hi Prem,

Was that a poodle or a fro???????

[Prem]

Faux hawk. ...and there goes this thread.

[southpennrailroad]

Looking at the way they installed wood around the vent, I would put the same thickness wood splints along side each brace and when I installed the 1" blue foam insulation between the wood splints and then put up the wood ceiling paneling and screw that on into the wood. This way no screws would be in the metal spars. Again I can't do that this year as I am in for the winter. I have to say that I have had condensation but when I heat the trailer up the dampness disappears and I have my 12" fan vent open so that I have fresh air constantly. I think with the Maxx Air cover it keeps the hot air in longer so that I am not just letting the heat out. I use the blue flame heater on the wall. Temps have been as low as 27 at night so far and condensation appears but disappears soon after it gets warm in the trailer after I turn the heater on.

[Engineer Guy]

Re: the question above about spray-in Foam, there's lots of solutions like this:

http://www.energyefficientsolutions.com/sprayfoam.asp?gclid=CK7mn5zZuqUCFYHc4Aodk0PWYg

Foam cutting down in-Wall air movement and convection also helps raise R values.

[mdvaden]

Condensation can be an issue with heaters, like propane.

If you put rigid foam sheets on the roof, I don't think moisture really goes through the stuff.

So if you could spray something like Goodstuff expanding foam around the perimeter of the sheet so when you stick it, the foam swells and cuts off air entirely, that may be an option.

But it would almost have to be done when humidity was very low so humid air did not get trapped.

That's how I did mine, before I put some paneling up overhead.

[southpennrailroad]

Condensation can be an issue with heaters, like propane.

If you put rigid foam sheets on the roof, I don't think moisture really goes through the stuff.

So if you could spray something like Goodstuff expanding foam around the perimeter of the sheet so when you stick it, the foam swells and cuts off air entirely, that may be an option.

But it would almost have to be done when humidity was very low so humid air did not get trapped.

That's how I did mine, before I put some paneling up overhead.

Thanks I kind figured that and money is the problem along with this is the wrong time and spring is to damp so summer it is.

Of course if I have the doors open while working and a sunny day would help sooner. Also the vent fan running would top that problem off. You all have been a great help. Thanks

[southpennrailroad]

Oh I got rid of the propane furnace and have a Atwood 18,000 BTU furnace now. But still have some water. It isn't dripping like it use to. I am just planning on the next phase come spring or when ever work picks up. The furnace is just right for the conditions but expect it will be a little much once I insulate this 6x10.

[southpennrailroad]

You all know I am living in my un insulated trailer so here is what I am finding so far on the condensation issue on the ceiling.

With the Atwood Furnace as well as the blue flame I had no condensation on the beams in the ceiling. The heat rose well enough to keep them warm at least in temps outside @ 14 degrees the coldest so far. The wood sandwiched between the roof skin and the beams is enough to keep the heat transfer or cold transfer to a min. so the heat in the trailer keeps the beams warm. Not so much on the back brace above the door. It still gets condensation but less with the Atwood furnace.

[southpennrailroad]

Was wondering. This might be a little work but as stated above the wood insulating the area between the roof skin and the beam is enough to keep cold transfer from reaching the beams. Should maybe I do each stud and loosen the screws and place insulation between them and screw the skin back in place? Then put in the 1" insulation in between the studs.

[nnyscolex]

I'm in the process of building a 7x 14 and putting the furring strips on the ceiling made installing the ceiling panels simple and easy. it also makes it easier to wire if that's how you want to wire your lights. As far as the condensate issue reducing the temp difference between the screws and inside air will prevent condensation or more circulation. I put the strips a foot apart across the roof. on the first test night it got down to 35 degrees and with my mr buddy heater it went from downright cold to warm and cozy in about 5 minutes

[southpennrailroad]

Well I went through another winter and the warmth of the heat from the furnace made the beams warm enough to keep the cold from penetrating through so no drips from the ceiling. However where warm air can't get to the screws on the wall near the blankets the screws are still freezing. So keep those screws open to the inside heat.

[norcal2]

To prevent condensation on my ceiling throught the screws Im going to use poly drive rivets, they are plastic and dont conduct, ive used them on other projects....now just have to figure out the rear ramp conducting, i may hang a moving pad over to insulate..
http://www.plasticsfasteners.com/PolyDriveRivets.html