1947 Kit Rebuild Update as of 23 February 2011

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby Classic Finn » Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:49 pm

Ageless wrote:Finn; doe these rivets just join aluminum to aluminum or do they hold the AL parts to wood?


These rivets are round heads and they just hold the aluminum together yes. not more than 2.5 - 3mm in diameter on the head.

Also the back tail light I just did some research and I came up with the same exact light for a 1947 Willy,s Jeep (Civilian Jeep).. so it does seem to match and make sense . :D

Take a look here.

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/1947-j ... -assembly/ 8) 8)

Even though Ive got these already which are a lot nicer but the year matches on the Jeep Lights. :twisted:

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Postby Ageless » Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:51 pm

Tubular rivets might be easier to use in your situation. This is just one source. I'm sure you can find a local source.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w02.htm
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Postby Classic Finn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 3:08 pm

Well the resto continues. Some may say why all the extra work in restoring old parts and aluminum. Well its simple. Use whatever you can without ordering new to replace. :lol:

Ok this is next on the resto schedule. The handles and locks will be repolished as well as the moulding and possibly the aluminum on the 2nd cupboard.. ;)

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I think I know the wood to be used on the 1st cupboard :twisted:

And also from the other Kit.

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Postby Classic Finn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:33 pm

Well all the handles, hinges and mouldings have been taken off. Ready for the buffing. The ply on the doors were pretty much rotted again so I have 2 nice sets of templates from them. :)

The 2 cupboard doors were of the same size even though they were from 2 different locations. Which is fascinating :lol:

The moulding I got off real nicely and after buffing them out will be like brand new. Nice.

Here,s all the parts laid out. Ready for buffing and recutting of new wood.

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Next will be the purchase of aluminum or stainless as well as New Marine Ply for the walls and so on as well as taken to the Laser Department to be accurately cut. ;)
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:52 pm

Great progress and it great that you are able to preserve as much as you have been able to, but I would think you would be up to the plimsoll line breaking up ice. :thinking:
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Postby Classic Finn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:03 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:Great progress and it great that you are able to preserve as much as you have been able to, but I would think you would be up to the plimsoll line breaking up ice. :thinking:


Shadow Catcher thank you for the nice comment. Can you however tell me what you mean by (up to the plimsoll line breaking up ice) Apologies I dont understand :lol: :lol: ;) :thumbsup: do you mean by all the extra work? :thinking: :roll: :D

Much of the aluminum moulding and lighting and all cant be found here so I have no other choice than restore. And in the long run this will make it all the more unique as if it aint already :lol:
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Postby vtx1029 » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:04 am

Classic Finn wrote:
Ageless since youve worked with aluminum and rivets.. do you possibly know where these rounded top rivets can be found? Reason being is on the hatch moulding there are rivets which are round headed holding the moulding onto the aluminum. Here I cant find anything as such.



Do they look like this?
Image

My guess is they are a solid AN470AD rivet (aircraft rivet)

If you drill them out you can identify the size.

The diameter of AN rivets are in 32nds of an inch, and the length is in 16th's. So:
AN470AD5-7 = Dome Rivet in 5/32" diameter, and 7/16's long.

To find the length of the rivet should be the thickness of the material plus 1.5 X the diameter of the rivet.

The most commonly used are -4 rivets that are 1/8 in diameter use a #30 drill bit to check the hole size.

They do take specialized tooling to install and your best bet may be to run up to an airport and see if they will install them when your ready. Or just use a different style of rivet.
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Postby Classic Finn » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:37 am

Similar to that yes.. but only 2 mm in diameter. ;)


vtx1029 wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:
Ageless since youve worked with aluminum and rivets.. do you possibly know where these rounded top rivets can be found? Reason being is on the hatch moulding there are rivets which are round headed holding the moulding onto the aluminum. Here I cant find anything as such.



Do they look like this?
Image

My guess is they are a solid AN470AD rivet (aircraft rivet)

If you drill them out you can identify the size.

The diameter of AN rivets are in 32nds of an inch, and the length is in 16th's. So:
AN470AD5-7 = Dome Rivet in 5/32" diameter, and 7/16's long.

To find the length of the rivet should be the thickness of the material plus 1.5 X the diameter of the rivet.

The most commonly used are -4 rivets that are 1/8 in diameter use a #30 drill bit to check the hole size.

They do take specialized tooling to install and your best bet may be to run up to an airport and see if they will install them when your ready. Or just use a different style of rivet.
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Postby Classic Finn » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:39 am

I think I may have come upon somthing. When in this case Im not too familiar with the rivet topic but here I found somthing of interest.

Both have codes that say DIN 660 & DIN 661 - What do these mean?

Here are a couple of pics. ;) 1st pic I dont understand what the tool used to install these would look like.

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This one is with threads on it so it may be useful?

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Postby GuyllFyre » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:38 pm

It could be as simple as hitting them with a hammer:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/e ... veting.svg

2-person team with gun and buck bar:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... _team2.jpg

Wikipedia where these were found:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet

Place that sells rivets and rivet tools:
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w06.htm#

What does 'DIN' mean?
DIN is an acronym for the roughly translated "Deutsche Institut fur Normung," a German standards and measurements organization. For our purposes, DIN simply indicates that a device complies with a generally accepted standard of dimension or configuration.

DIN660 Rivets - round head:
http://www.sapphireproducts.co.uk/din660.htm
http://www.brassnutbolt.com/din/technic ... in660.html

DIN661 Rivets - flat head:
http://www.brassnutbolt.com/din/technic ... in661.html

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Postby Classic Finn » Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:24 pm

GuyllFyre

Thank you ever so much in giving your time to give me some new info on a fairly unknown topic to me which is the Rivet :lol: Life is a learning process even for us over the hill :lol: :lol:

Thanks Again :thumbsup:
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Postby GuyllFyre » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:36 pm

You're welcome.
It's always fun to contribute when you know something.

Most people are familiar with "pop" rivets aka "blind" rivets.

Image

They're simple to use and require no access to the back of the items being joined. They use a simple tool called a "pop rivet gun."

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Postby vtx1029 » Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:42 am

Classic Finn wrote:I think I may have come upon somthing. When in this case Im not too familiar with the rivet topic but here I found somthing of interest.

Both have codes that say DIN 660 & DIN 661 - What do these mean?

Here are a couple of pics. ;) 1st pic I dont understand what the tool used to install these would look like.

Image

This one is with threads on it so it may be useful?

Image


Is it a little bigger then 2mm? A -3 rivet is slightly larger.

The rivet in the first picture can be installed to ways. With a rivet gun (kind of like an air hammer but with much more control) with a special die that
fits the round head of the rivet, then there is a bucking bar on the skinny end while you pull the trigger it smashes the skinny end. Or their specialized rivet squeezers that kind of look like a C clamp with 2 handles. Find an aircraft mechanic to install new rivets for you they will have the tools (very expensive) and experience to install them properly. It's really easy to mess up the surrounding metal if you don't know what your doing. Then again it's not like it will fall out of the sky :lol:

The second picture would only work if your driving it into a solid base so yes they could work the normal install for that style is to drill a smaller hole then what you call threads and then tap it in with a hammer.

One tip on what ever you use put some silicone sealant on them before you put the rivet in the hole, once the rivet is installed then wipe the excess sealant off this will keep the water out. ;)
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Postby Classic Finn » Sat Jan 15, 2011 5:46 pm

GuyllFyre wrote:You're welcome.
It's always fun to contribute when you know something.

Most people are familiar with "pop" rivets aka "blind" rivets.

Image

They're simple to use and require no access to the back of the items being joined. They use a simple tool called a "pop rivet gun."

Image


The above rivets and rivet gun is what I have here at home. Not exact brand though. ;) These are the basic ones. But its the other ones weve been writing and reading about that are perdy much Greek to me :lol: ;)
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Postby Classic Finn » Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:57 pm

All windows now bead blasted, rewelded where needed and base painted, Now to decide the colors of the main paint and installed with EU standard approved safety glass. They be lookn like new off the shelf. :twisted:

Pics asap. 8) 8) ;)
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