Trailer/Floor assembled - moving right along

[EZ]

After suddenly deciding tho build a teardrop camper I already have an assembled trailer, trailer jack and completed floor. I used 2 X 3s on edge for the frame and 1/2" ply for the floor. I am sure glad I listed to the people who suggested 1/2" floor. It is great and anything thicker would indeed be overkill.

As best as I can tell, my HF 1200# trailer has only about 2 1/2" of travel in the leaf springs before it bottoms out on the U-bolts or less than 3" until it bottoms out on the spring. The floor should have enough clearance above the tires for no problem. It will be very light anyway.

Also shown is a crude sketch of what the interior layout will be. You guys said you like pictures.....

EZ

[madjack]

looks very workable to me EZ on gettin' her started......................................

[Kevin A]

EZ,

Glad to see you starting on the trailer, those gravity clamps are most impressive, particularly the one in the center. Don't let Ira see it...

[Ira]

BECKS!? YOU NAZI!!!

Just kidding. (That was FUNNY, Kevin!) G;ad to see you're up and running, EZ.

But how come you have those removable "thingies" there with the cotter pins at the very rear of the tongue, the things you pull out if you want to fold that trailer?

You ain't gonna be doing THAT, so don't you want to replace them with regular bolts?

[Hardin Valley Magic]

Ira maybe he's gonna leavem like I did BUT weld around the just to see how many people he can embarrass trying to pull them out!!

[EZ]

Ira, those "thingys" are to pull when you want to tilt the trailer, or fold up the tongue too as you mentioned I guess. Just haven't gotten around to replacing them yet. Not sure why I would want to tilt the trailer, unless I was parked on a serious downhill and needed a new levelling technique.

Becks beer was a special treat for completing the floor. Normally I have only Summit Pale Ale in my fridge. I'm not sure where in the country they sell that but I am glad they sell it here (brewed in Minnesota).

While I am here, can you guys please tell me how much the tar stuff smells or if there are alternatives. I either need to get that done or start on the sides and wait for the weather to warm up. I missed my window of opportunity since it has been record high temps of 40+ the past week but I am pretty sure that is history.

This is fun!

EZ

[madjack]

EZ...any good sealer will work...that tar is messy stuff that is amazingly attracted to anything you don't want it on...we used MinWax ClearSheild on the bottom of ours...it is a heavy bodied. outdoor rated polyurethane...we thinned it about 10/15% and sprayed several coats on...like it much better than messing with the tar
madjack

[Ira]

I didn't think the tar smelled THAT bad (asphalt emulsion), but others might disagree. (I think Tom got high from it.)

[Steve_Cox]

EZ

The plastic roofing tar I used smelled pretty strong, but I liked the smell. Wife on the other hand hated it. Left the garage door opened the first night. The stuff set up but still had a pretty strong odor for about 4 days in a closed up garage. Maybe Ira didn't notice it too much because he built outdoors. The odors dissapated pretty quickly with the garage door opened. Next time I'm going with sandwich construction and seal it on the bottom like MadJack did. But the reason for the sandwich construction is I want to use FBF insulation in the middle.

Steve

[EZ]

I have decided to use latex house paint on the bottom of the floor. See my new post regarding wood, painting, etc. I have an attched heated garage and it is winter here and the smell of roof sealer won't make it. I am confident a coat of latex primer and latex paint will be fine. My sailboat sure is holding up well.

Sailboat construction website
http://www.edzech.com/Sailboat/BUILDING%20DA%20BOAT%20PAGE.htm

EZ