Radiusing bottom corners of a teardrop

[shamrock]

I'm in the planing stages of building my teardrop , and looking thru all the messages I didnt see any that has covered anything about radiusing the bottom of a teardrop. I'm not looking for the large radius like from the roof to the frame but the small radius just at the bottom by the frame.
I see it done on a lot teardrops like the Camp-inn models,
But what I would like to know is how the wood is machined or sanded or formed so when its instaled between the 2 outside walls and over the frame. and when it is skined it will take that radius also?

[halfdome, Danny]

Shamrock, First off, any radius should over hang the chassis or it won't work. I used some Tiger Wood decking scraps (Goncalo Alves) as it's guaranteed by Home Depot to last 20 years outdoors. Make blocks from a good exotic wood and trace the profile from your sides, bandsaw and sand. You'll need a 3/4" backing slightly away from your back cross member and a piece on top to glue & screw to your floor member. I skinned the radius in the same plywood as the roof, 2 layers of 1/8" Baltic Birch. I know 3/8" bender board (ply) will bend on a 4" radius. I plan on skinning it with aluminum but since my alum. was cut all wacky by the supplier I may make a break @ the radius and cover the seam with some alum. trim. I had a photo but I lost it. If you need any more info on this subject Grant Whipp is the expert. Danny

[Gaston]

the tear I'm building has a 7" radius lower rear and 8"radius lower front. These are built as a subasembly of wood frames, ribs and 1/8 luan skins (to be covered with fiberglass) then attached to the ends of the floor & overhanging the frame rails. If you want a smaler radius you could start with a solid "chunk" like a 4x4 and plane away the excess to get the profile you want and attach it to the ends of the frame. Kind of like a bumper. I found a 7" radius was about the tightest I could get with 1/8" luan, but you could cover the ribs with alumium skins if you want a smaller radius nstead. I made the front radius as acompartment in a front cabinet to use the space . the rear radius will have an axcess in the galley and will hold the power cord. the down side of the rear radius is a high galley sill, making a stepped floor in the galley. Look at my album for more photos of them

[halfdome, Danny]

Gaston, That’s very similar to the way I did mine but I skinned them on the trailer to make it one piece. Good work . Danny

[TRAIL-OF-TEARS]

My rear bottom radius is just the aluminum skin but I did use pretty thick aluminum .050. The front lower radius is just two little 6" sections I made that tie the sided with the tongue box so my floor is square except the two 6" parts on either side but the whole thing is covered witha matress and pillows so nobody can see it. If I was to do it again I would complete this lower section before attaching the tongue box.

[shamrock]

OK. I understand how the back is done - 1 long board with the radius cut and sanded in to it and then mounted between the walls , fair enough. but you say it needs to be over the frame. I am building a frame with an A style hitch so, if I im right I'll do the same thing to the front execpt i'll have to notch the board to fit over the A frame and then notch the alum, skin also?
Sorry Gaston I could not view your picturs all I'm getting is the small x, nothing more.

[halfdome, Danny]

Shamrock, I too have an "A" frame and I just made two assemblies as far as I could go to the "A" and I will scribe in the angle when I apply the .040 aluminum skin. You'll have to be stone drunk and laying on your back to see How I cheated. Danny

[shamrock]

Ok now Gaston's pictures came thru and I can see how you did them . Now ,is this the back section if so how about the front?

[Gaston]

the front of mine is built as a cabinet and forms the front of the trailer. built much like the rear. these pics show it best.