Wall Framing questions?

[Cdash]

While looking through all the builds here, I have noticed that most people that build up walls for insulation seem to use 3/4" plywood as the framing and cut out the pockets/areas for the insulation. Why is this?

My initial thought was to use my outside ply (3/8" since that is the thinnest I can find in 4x10) then use 1x2's screwed and glued to the skin as studs/framing then the inner skin would be glued and attached to the framing. I don't see this done, except in the cases where someone frames the trailer up before skinning - similar to stick building a house the old fashioned way. Is is necessary for stength, or just a build preference?

My curious mind would like to know....

Thanks,

Craig

[bobhenry]

You just didn't look real hard......



Exterior osb skin was left intact as a shear member and 1x3 and 1 x4 were added at floor, door framing , galley walls and outside perimeter. This 1 by material was used as nailers for the inside paneling after wiring and insulating. The 3/4 void left enough room for 1/2 depth carlon electrical boxes for the electrical wiring.

[toypusher]

I believe that it is just a preference of the builder. I used the 'stick built' version, but lots of people seem to think it is easier to use the 3/4 plywood and cut out for the insulation. BTW: 1 by material is 3/4" but most 3/4" plywood is not quite that thick. (typically 23/32) this can cause the 3/4" thick insulation to not fit as you would expect.

[planovet]

While looking through all the builds here, I have noticed that most people that build up walls for insulation seem to use 3/4" plywood as the framing and cut out the pockets/areas for the insulation. Why is this?

My initial thought was to use my outside ply (3/8" since that is the thinnest I can find in 4x10) then use 1x2's screwed and glued to the skin as studs/framing then the inner skin would be glued and attached to the framing. I don't see this done, except in the cases where someone frames the trailer up before skinning - similar to stick building a house the old fashioned way. Is is necessary for stength, or just a build preference?

Just a build preference.

I built mine with inner and outer skins attached to a 1x4 frame. Built the entire wall off the trailer, finished both sides and then attached all 4 walls at one time. Worked for me.

[Rock]

Mine similar to Planovet's. Built in this order only because that's how Mike did it in his original thread and I didn't see any reason to change.







Eric

[Toytaco2]

Here's one more stick frame using 1x for framing, then insulate, and skin both sides before mounting to the floor. I've seen people do it a lot of different ways by searching their albums. Lots of good ideas to be found there.

Good Luck,

Mike

[KenC]

While looking through all the builds here, I have noticed that most people that build up walls for insulation seem to use 3/4" plywood as the framing and cut out the pockets/areas for the insulation. Why is this?

My initial thought was to use my outside ply (3/8" since that is the thinnest I can find in 4x10) then use 1x2's screwed and glued to the skin as studs/framing then the inner skin would be glued and attached to the framing. I don't see this done, except in the cases where someone frames the trailer up before skinning - similar to stick building a house the old fashioned way. Is is necessary for stength, or just a build preference?

My curious mind would like to know....

Thanks,

Craig

Mine is stick built as well, building the walls on the work bench, for me it is easier to work on a flat surface at waist level. I'll bolt / glue the walls to the trailer floor and frame once I'm finished with the inner , outer walls and doors.

[aggie79]

As others have said, either way works.

I guess my teardrop is a "hybrid". I used 3/4" plywood (actually MDO) for my sidewall framing. My insulated floor, roof, and hatch were stick framing.

Here's the floor:



This is a sidewall with interior finish material applied:



This is everything assembled (except the hatch) prior to adding insulation to the sidewalls and roof.



Take care,
Tom

[DMcCam]

It's also a weight and temperature consideration. I'd ask myself, 'how and where do we camp?' If you camp where there is a significant changes in temperature the insulation can help with 'sweating' walls and keep things cozier. I wanted to camp in these conditions but also need a light weight trailer. The 3/4" stick framing or skeletonized ply with 1/8" ply inside and out is about as light as possible with insulation. Probably close to the weight of just the 3/4" alone but with the benefits of insulation and possibly stronger too. Steve Frederick's shop manual is worth looking into for construction methods. You can find a lot of great information in the sdtripper2's Index link in the masthead list above.

Cheers,

Dave

[gregp136]

We used 3/8th inch plywood, and used 1x2s to give us space in the walls to put in the insulation. No sweating problems, and not too heavy either.



Greg (and Laurie)

[Ptomaine]

1x2 framing, 3/4" rigid pink insulation, 1/4" luan inside wall, 3/8" t-111 outside. Held together with glue, staples, & screws.

[bdosborn]

Sticks! Lots and lots of sticks!



Then I skinned the walls and attached them to the trailer.



Bruce

[asianflava]

I may as well throw my pic up too. I used 1X wood with rigid foam insulation.

[cracker39]

Framing is all 3/4", mostly 1 1/2" inside framing, wider at the edge and where the three plywood sheets join. Open spaces filled with RMax foil faced insulation.

The Squidget constructed 2005. Front is to the right


The Squidget PT, under construction. Front is to the left