Terry's TTT Garageable Standy Build modifications

[terryjones1]

I am now in the process of building the trailer sides. The picture below shows the construction detail of the right side of the trailer. The inside wall plywood is placed down below the framing. At top of picture, is rear of trailer wall. At left side of picture, is bottom of trailer wall. Of course, the right side of picture, shows the top of trailer wall. The drop floor & door area is shown about the middle of picture. The wheel well is just above that. The rear side window framing is shown. The top and bottom framing has been epoxyed to the plywood. Tomorrow, I will epoxy the rest of the framing.



The front of trailer wall is shown below. The location of the front window frame is also shown

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the rear section of the sidewall. The rear side window is framed. At the top of the picture is the sidewall roof. The roof line will be routed using the template that I previously posted a photo of. The wood wedges are used to level the sidewall framing side to side.



Shown below is the middle section of the trailer sidewall. The bricks are holding down the door/drop floor framing while the epoxy dries. The five horizontal boards in the door area are used to insure that I have a square door frame.



Shown below is the front section. The front side window framing is shown.



Shown below is an overall picture of the trailer sidewall. This will be the right side of the trailer.

[aggie79]

Terry-
At your current pace, you'll be done by Spring. Thank you for posting pictures of your progress. I'm learning about things I want to incorporate in my next build.
Tom

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the inside wall of the right sidewall of the trailer. The left side of photo is the front of trailer. Of course, the right side of the photo is the back. The long section is where the door will be. The shorter section will be the wheelwell. The window area and the door has yet to be cut out. I still need to use the template to form the roof outline. I am now storing this side, while I build the left sidewall. I am using the modified moving dollys to move the sidewall around so that I can get to things in the garage cabinets.

[terryjones1]

I have started on the left side. In the lower portion of the picture, is the top of trailer left side. Of course, in the uper portion of the picture, is the bottom of the trailer left side. On the left, is the rear of trailer left side. I have epoxyed the top & bottom framing to the plywood. Tomorrow, I epoxy the middle framing to the plywood.

[terryjones1]

I have completed the left side of the wall (except the outside plywood). I am now ready for installation of clearance lights wiring, foam insulation, and the outside plywood.

[terryjones1]

I have now installed the insulation in the wall of the left side of the trailer.
I first tried to use 3/4" foam insulation. It varied in thickness such that I could not use it. I then settled for 1/2" thick foam insulation.
The photo below shows the rear section of the left side of the trailer. The top is in the lower part of the photo. The vacant channel in the first insulation panel is where the rear clearance light wiring will run.



The photo below shows the middle section of the left side of the trailer. The vacant channel on the left is where the wiring will run for a 110 ACV duplex recepticle that will be mounted above the refrigerator cabinet. The vacant channel on the right is where a TV coax cable will run to an outlet and 12 DCV wiring will run to a recepticle, both also above the refrigerator cabinet.



The photo below shows the front section of the left side of the trailer. The vacant channel in the last insulation panel is where the front clearance light wiring will run.



I will next run string through the channels and holes so that I can pull the wiring after the outside plywood is installed.

[myoung]

I'm curious. Why pull the wiring after you skin the exterior. Wouldn't it be simpler to just put the wiring in place before you attach the exterior skin?

Also, you could anchor the wiring if you like as long as you do so before skinning.

[terryjones1]

I'm curious. Why pull the wiring after you skin the exterior. Wouldn't it be simpler to just put the wiring in place before you attach the exterior skin?

Also, you could anchor the wiring if you like as long as you do so before skinning.

I had thought about that (pre-installing the wiring).
My method of installing the outside plywood (skin) is to just epoxy the plywood to the framing. I will use weights to hold down the plywood to the frame.
The wall, as shown on the previous pictures, has the interior facing down. The interior plywood will be laying on top of 1" cheap foam that I will lay down. There will not be enough room between the cheap foam and the interior plywood for the electrical wiring to be placed. Therefore, I will use a thin string, which will leave room for the cheap foam to be next to the interior plywood. There should be no problem pulling the wires with the string.

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the outside plywood skin glued to the left wall frame. I used epoxy to glue the plywood to the 3/4" thick frame whitch had previously been glued to the inside plywood skin. Notice the red strings. They will be used to pull the clearance lights wiring, 110 ACV wiring, 12 DCV wiring, and TV cable through the wall.




I will be using 1.5" fiberglass tape & epoxy on the seams of the plywood. The tape is on order from RAKA. The outside will then be covered with epoxy and then polyurethane paint. I will not be routing out the profile using my template until painting is complete, inside and out.

[bdosborn]

I wonder if you should trim the walls before you paint. That way you fill any tearout as required before you paint?
Bruce

[terryjones1]

I wonder if you should trim the walls before you paint. That way you fill any tearout as required before you paint?
Bruce

On the side walls, I will not be painting any areas that would be below the "bed box" and the bench seats (approximately 12" high, measured from floor level, on each). I will be covering those areas later with CPES.

The part of the outside wall that is below the floor level, including the fender area and below the dropped floor area will be coated with epoxy on the inside part of the outside plywood. I plan on cutting/trimming the bottom of the plywood below the floor level after I have finished the inside, and epoxyed & painted the outside of wall.

On the top of the wall, I will be routing the roofline profile after painting the inside wall. I will be doing the roof installation the same way that you did.

I do not expect, because of the epoxy coat, any tearout at the roof line area while I am routing the profile. I will probably use the circular saw to cut the below frame level plywood trimming. Again, I will be cutting plywood that has been coated with epoxy on the inside and outside of the plywood.

If I have a problem, It's repair time.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[terryjones1]

I have turned the left wall over. We are now looking at the inside plywood. The "overhang" at the bottom of photos is what will mostly be used to cover the frame. The bottom will be trimmed and the wheel wells will be cut later. I have coated the bottom "overhang" with a coat of epoxy. I have coated the seams with epoxy & wood filler. The rear section of the left wall is shown in the picture below:



Notice the red pull strings for later pulling the wiring. The middle section is shown below:



The front section is shown below:



Tomorrow, I will prime the inside wall with Behr Premium Plus Interior/Exterior Oil-Based Primer & Sealer.

[terryjones1]

I primed the left side interior with Behr Premium Plus Interior/Exterior Oil-Based Primer & Sealer. It took 3 days to dry.

I masked off the following areas: bed platform, dinette bench, refrigerator cabinet, TV & 12 DCV & 110 ACV outlets above refrigerator cabinet, and front & back where overhead cabinets will be (hard to see).

Today, I gave the left side interior 2 coats of Behr Premium Plus Ultra Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel. It looks like it could still use another coat. See photo below:

[terryjones1]

I have turned the left side wall over, with outside facing up.

Today I sanded the plywood at seams. I then filled the seams with thickened epoxy.

As shown below, I have used the previous template, that I had made, to rout out the sidewall patern at the roof line.



Shown below is an edge view of the roof line. I have routed out 1-1/4" at top of wall & the front and back curves, leaving 1/4" flange.

This routed 1-1/4" area is where the top inside 1/4" plywood, with 1" roof spars attached (epoxyed), will be placed. Then, the spars will be attached to the 1-1/4" area with long screw at ends of spars.



Next, I will attach 1-1/2" fiberglas tape, embeded in epoxy, to the seams.