What to use to skin all steel tubed frame?

[Siouxgirl2]

I have a trailer with upper teardrop frame welded in square steel tubing as well as the trailer (although no hatch frame yet). I would really like to at least get it closed in and useable by this summer, to finish doors for cabinets etc. next year, but maybe I'm optimistic.

This is the question... neither my husband or myself have ever done any work with aluminum or fiberglass. I'm in Arizona so the heat is impending. What would be easiest to skin it with.

I'm concerned the heat will be to extensive to work with the fiberglass as drying time in the heat will be difficult. Also, the Arizona sun may be horrible for longevity.

I am considering aluminum but how hard is it to work with? Also, most of the builds I see here are about how to attach aluminum to wood framing material. Do I need to put a wood skin over the foam and metal prior to putting on the aluminum or can I just use aluminum attached to the metal tubing without a wood lining? What sort of adhesive things would I need to consider since it is up agains steel tube frame?

It is 4'10 x 9'6 so a somewhat odd sizing with 4'4" side profile height so 4x8 sheets wouldn't work. I considered painted FRP but the size eliminates local inexpensive Lowe's FRP sheets.

Sorry for the newbie question but I've never done this before and I'm lost. Any suggestions and advice?

[emiller]

I live in Phoenix, AZ and did my current teardrop in steel and aluminum and I am currently doing a vintage trailer in the same way.

[emiller]

I would get painted sheets of aluminum. I used aluminum to steel on both trailers. the teardrop just used some seam sealer and on the vintage trailer I used that Tremco stuff from Vintage Trailer supply and Olympic rivets on both.
If you live in Phoenix your welcome to come by and see the trailers if you like.

[Siouxgirl2]

Thank you so much. I'm glad to know that used aluminum to steel.

I know you suggested painted sheets of aluminum. Do you have a good local source for aluminum? The only place I can think of is Industrial Metal Supply and I'm not sure they have the larger size sheets but I did e-mail them. Do you think they have painted sheets?

I would love to see your trailers. I'm out pretty far East (Gold Canyon) and I'm assuming you are more in Phoenix so I'd love to arrange a time.

Thank you so much.

Loyal

[corncountry]

Try a sign supply house for 5x10 painted aluminum. Most large citys will have one.
I have built two tears with aluminun over steel frames. One with rivets and one with 3M VHB tape. Both ways are good. It all depends on if you like to see the rivets, or if you like the smooth sides.
Here is a site to check out the 3M tape. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... /VHB-Tape/

Jim

[Siouxgirl2]

Ohhh good to know. Which did you prefer in the build tape or rivets? Was there a difference besides finished aesthetics? Thank you for that link.

Did you rivet straight to the steel tubing or have plywood/luan in between?

[corncountry]

I fastened the aluminun direct to the steel tube on both. The tape was quicker, but cost a little more, didn't have all the holes to drill. If I remember right, the tape was about $100.00 per 36 yd. roll.
You can see both trailers in my album.

Jim

[emiller]

Don't use tape in Phoenix use the rivets instead. I bought my 4x10 painted sheets from Industrial Metal supply for the teardrop and 4x10 painted sheets from United Aluminum. the 4x12 unpainted sheets I got here in North Phoenix. I live off of Union Hills and Central, pretty far from you. I will be here working on my vintage trailer Saturday and Sunday mornings. I usually get home from work around 1:30 pm also Monday through Friday.

[CARS]

I'm new here so be gentle, but aren't any of you worried about galvanic corrosion? When 2 dissimilar metals are joined without any form of insulator, corrosion will occur. This is why you will often see paint flaking around rivets on semi trucks and boats.

In my body shop I even have different tools for working aluminum because I don't want future paint problems because I "forced" a chip of steel into the softer aluminum.

[emiller]

I'm new here so be gentle, but aren't any of you worried about galvanic corrosion? When 2 dissimilar metals are joined without any form of insulator, corrosion will occur. This is why you will often see paint flaking around rivets on semi trucks and boats.

In my body shop I even have different tools for working aluminum because I don't want future paint problems because I "forced" a chip of steel into the softer aluminum.

Well this vintage trailer is in the 40's I believe and it had very miner corrosion. I and a few other teardroppers here have been using aluminum on steel hatch frames since 1999 and have not seen any issues. But yeah it will eventually start to corrode. I try to paint everything really good to minimize that problem.
Eddie

[GuitarPhotog]

My 1948 teardrop is aluminum riveted to a welded angle-iron frame, and exhibits no evidence of galvanic corrosion. The rivets have lasted since it was built and it's still tight and leak-proof.

So, I'd recommend riveting the aluminum skin to the steel frame

<Chas>

[TheOtherSean]

I'm new here so be gentle, but aren't any of you worried about galvanic corrosion? When 2 dissimilar metals are joined without any form of insulator, corrosion will occur. This is why you will often see paint flaking around rivets on semi trucks and boats.

In my body shop I even have different tools for working aluminum because I don't want future paint problems because I "forced" a chip of steel into the softer aluminum.

Galvanic corrosion can be a problem, but its not typically a very rapid process, especially if in a dry environment. If in high humidity, it'll be a problem sooner. If subjected to extended exposure to a wet and salty environment, such as on a beach or in oceanfront towns, it may become a problem fairly rapidly because the salt and water can act as an effective electrolyte.

There's a standards document from the US military that serves as a good reference on dissimilar metals, MIL-STD-889B. It lists the galvanic potential of a number of metals and alloys. If I understand correctly, corrosion is mainly a problem when the difference in galvanic potential between the alloys being joined exceeds 0.15V.

[Siouxgirl2]

Good information. I'm having a horrible time finding 5' wide sheets locally. I know some have suggested big sheets to repair trucks but I imagine that isn't painted aluminum as Eddie suggests. I even check the local sign supplier and they only carry 4x10. I'm worried that I'm going to have to get into shipping unless someone knows something that I don't.

Eddie, my husband is dealing with his airplane and finishing a job in Alaska so it will be a few weeks before he gets back (probably the beginning of April sometime) but he would like to go see your work with me and ask you some questions. So... if you don't mind, I'll try to reach you for the best time when he gets home from Alaska.

[Siouxgirl2]

Getting closer. I found a local source of 5052 Alloy 5x10 or 5x12 in .063. I'm worried that will be to hard to work with around the curve on top especially for a newbie. I'm waiting on a few other calls so we'll see... I'm trying to find the painted.

[Wobbly Wheels]

One option is to make a layup table and make your own glass sheets. A 4'X 10' table of 3/4 ply laid across sawhorse will work. If you glue non-textured Formica onto it, the glass sheets won't stick - a quick polish with turtle wax (or plain ol' beeswax) will help with that too.

Two units (layers) of 6 oz cloth will give you a nonstructural, waterproof sheathing. I use Interlux's Epiglass HT9000 epoxy (about $150/mixed gallon - 1/2 gallon should be lots). It's low viscosity makes wetting out the cloth a cinch and since you're doing it on a flat surface you don't have to be worried about drips. The table will give you a nice surface on the outside without having to fill the weave.

If you are going to be working in the heat, go with the slow hardener and spread out the mixed epoxy in a paint tray liner to keep it from kicking off in the heat.