CPES, How much do you need?

[CliffinGA]

I've been reading alot of build journals and sticky's on CPES but nonody mentions how much to get for their tears. I'm building a 5' x 8' benroy and can't decide how much to get to cover it.

Cliff

[Toytaco2]

My TD is 5' x 9' and also 5' tall. I got the 2 gallon kit which was more than enough to do 2 heavy coats plus the inevitable "extra stuff" that would benefit from some water proofing (such as the battery box and stove stand table top I made). I didn't want to have to place a second order once I got into the job, so the 2 gallon kit just made more sense to me.

Good Luck,
Mike

[LDK]

Cliff

I got a gallon of it and I'm thinkin that might be enough since I'm skinning with aluminum. I also used henrys 201 roof tar on the bottom of the floor.

[CliffinGA]

Thanks Mike and Larry,

I did my subfloor bottom and the framing with the fence post asphalt from TSC as HD and Lowes do not carry the Henry's 201. HD does carry Henry's just not the 201. I can attest to the fense post stuff going on thick and penetrating as I used two coats on the first subfloor I screwed up on and when I tried to cut it up it was a royal pain to cut as it had penetrated between 1/4" and 3/8" in the 2/4's and the ply. I was at West marine today and was looking at their different topside paints and noticed they have their own pes but when you add up the price $82 x 2 your still close to the price of CPES from Rot Doctor. I was talking to the manager and he suggested using poly resin or epoxy resin to seal it. Not sure which is better but looking at both of them for the sides and roof. Also been reading the thread here http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=42735

That has me thinking of using this and then after taping the seams with fiberglass tape and epoxy then painting with Interlux Perfection 2 part polyurethane.

Cliff

[doug hodder]

Cliff....if you want to build up the sides for a smooth finish prior to painting, and lay glass tape/cloth...I'd recommend just an epoxy. The CPES will penetrate...but after the first coat....that's it! It won't penetrate any more and doesn't build like an epoxy would (quickly) for a smooth finish. It also won't wet out cloth or tape like an epoxy would. Just my opinion however, others will probably vary. Doug

[S. Heisley]

Cliff....if you want to build up the sides for a smooth finish prior to painting, and lay glass tape/cloth...I'd recommend just an epoxy. The CPES will penetrate...but after the first coat....that's it! It won't penetrate any more and doesn't build like an epoxy would (quickly) for a smooth finish. It also won't wet out cloth or tape like an epoxy would. Just my opinion however, others will probably vary. Doug

When applying any type of epoxy, a person can most easily get into trouble by not applying it thoroughly or not applying enough. When CPES is applied, I believe it should be applied until the surface begins to shine after it has dried. To my way of thinking, the shine demonstrates that the wood has absorbed all that it can.

You're right, Doug. CPES can't/shouldn't be used for attaching fiberglass. Doc Rot suggests using their product called "Lay-up & Laminate" for that. However, if I were to use fiberglass again, I might choose an epoxy such as what Doug uses with the cloth. I would still use CPES as the base coat on the wood first. CPES is compatible with other brands of epoxy.