new technique

[droid_ca]

I've been reading lots about light weight builds and was wondering if this style would work or not would like your opinion
http://www.gaboats.com/construction/

[toypusher]

I've been reading lots about light weight builds and was wondering if this style would work or not would like your opinion
http://www.gaboats.com/construction/

That is very cool and looks like it would be a blast to build one.

I used to build RC airplanes and this is very similar.

Anyway, I do not see why it would not work for a teardrop. Just would be worried about road debris damaging it while being towed.

[droid_ca]

I was thinking the same but I looked mor into it and it seems pretty solid

[toypusher]

I was thinking the same but I looked mor into it and it seems pretty solid

No reason that you could not reinforce the front somehow to help with that.

[Shadow Catcher]

My usual rant is that most teardrops are built like tanks and not airplanes, can't do that with this one
One of the water craft that fascinated me most was the Bidarka, an Aleut skin coverd ocian going kyak http://vilda.alaska.edu/cdm4/item_viewe ... 1537&REC=1
One of the greatest enthotechnology examples using minimal materials.

No reason you can't come up with something really interesting and very lite weight.

[aggie79]

It is interesting and lightweight technique. The site says it resists tears from rocks in streams, but I wonder how it would stand up to a rock kicked up by a tire at highway speeds.

[droid_ca]

one of the ideas I was thinking is to sandwich some corigated plastic between it still light weight wouldn't be that great for colder camping but thats what blankets are for

[Hillmann]

It would work wonderfully for a teardrop(my plan is to build on with skin on frame construction) I have built several boats with the skin being canvas and linseed oil. They are much stronger than you would imagine, the first one I built using 1/4 x 1 inch oak for the frames and 1/8 x 3/4 cedar for the ones running lengthwise. The first year or so I took real good care of it an made sure not to ever let it touch rocks. But now when I hit a shallow spot in a stream and bottom out I wont bother getting out I juts keep shifting my weight until I am free. In the four years since I built it I have put two holes in it, which are easy to patch and with even the slightest amount of care when using could have been avoided. Also I am not sure how it happened but about half of the cedar strips in the bow are broken and it still holds its shape just fine.

[GPW]

Hill, I've also built many skinned frame and stringer structures in the past.. All worked fine and were more than strong enough to do the job ....
A while back I proposed a TD built like this ... Got little response...



BTW, for long strips of structural wood , we found the grain orientation to be very important ... and search out /cut only absolutely straight grained wood... any ring violation (feathering) is a weak spot .. and where it will break first ... A fact well well proven out in our other pastime ... making wooden long bows...

[Hillmann]

to add to what GPW said about the grain having to be perfect, I have also found that the best to get the wood right from the sawmill and ask for wood that hasn't been kiln dried yet and it will steam bend very easy compared to wood that has been kiln dried and even better would be to buy wood that hasn't even been air dried yet.

[Hillmann]

to add to what GPW said about the grain having to be perfect, I have also found that the best to get the wood right from the sawmill and ask for wood that hasn't been kiln dried yet and it will steam bend very easy compared to wood that has been kiln dried and even better would be to buy wood that hasn't even been air dried yet.

[GPW]

Hill, I've heard of Hickory strips sold Green to make sled runners up your way ... Seems like those would make some dandy laminated profile "ribs" ...

[Hillmann]

GWP, I hadn't heard of anyone selling hickory strips being sold green but that is exactly how I learned that green wood steams better than kiln dried. I was building a tobaggon out of hickory that was kilned dried and broke half of the pieces when trying to bend them around a five gallon bucket after steaming. I then tried with undried hickory and the same sized strips I could get to bend around a pop can before they would start to crack. Ever since then all my steam bending projects have been undried wood.

[GPW]

Hill, I use Hickory for making long bows .... Tough wood !!!

[OuttaHand]

That is a very interesting idea for building an extremely light tear. I would have a few concerns, though:

1) The boat you linked to is going to be supported in the water, by the water. The entire weight of the boat and its cargo (you) are supported completely and evenly along the entire under-side. Weight distribution is completely even in the water.

Likewise, an airplane wing is supported (almost) completely evenly by the air underneath it. There are no single points that receive a lot higher area of stress.

When mounting this to a trailer frame, you have mounting points, and possibly uneven bending and stressing of the trailer frame. That could lead to problems.

2) You will also have major stress points where the hatch hinges and where the doors hinge. Extra support would need to be built into those areas.

3) If you've ever been around a cloth-covered airplane, you know that they are a little "sensitive". In a trailer and camp setting, I would be concerned about someone leaning back against it with a chair, or a person trips and catches themselves with their hand on (or through) the wall of the trailer, etc.

So the idea is VERY interesting! And worth putting some thought intoo. But you need to consider ALL the angles before committing to it.