Best way to orient 4x8s ?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby TBuilder » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:33 pm

planovet wrote:
Lgboro wrote:A biscuit joiner (aka plate joiner) works really well joining two pieces of wood, although a good plate joiner is fairly expensive initially ($150 or so for a name brand). They are easy to use and make a strong and almost invisible joint is properly done.


That's what I did. It took 2 1/2 5x5 sheets to make each side.

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How did you clamp those sheets together?
:shock:
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Postby CARS » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:43 pm

TBuilder wrote:How did you clamp those sheets together?
:shock:


If I had to guess, a 10' and 6' long pipes, a coupler and the clamp ends.
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Postby john warren » Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:04 pm

Pizzaguy wrote:You could just do what I did. Join 2 different species together to get to 5' (even thou mine is only 4' high)

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Directions are in Steve Frederick's shop manual available here....

http://www.steve-frederick.com/shopman05.html


now that is slicker then snot on a doorknob!
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Postby TBuilder » Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:20 pm

It is pretty slick.
SO slick, I ordered the manual!
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Postby planovet » Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:47 pm

TBuilder wrote:How did you clamp those sheets together?


I did not have any clamps long enough so I used ratchet straps. They tended to curl the ends some so I just weighted the ends down and it worked great.
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Postby angib » Sun Apr 03, 2011 1:58 pm

My gut feel is that a horizontal seam is 'right'.

However the thinker in me says that a vertical seam is probably best for longevity - the horizontal seam is just dying to trap water in it if the joint is ever flexed (ie, cracked), whereas the vertical seam should drain fairly well.

Doesn't matter in the lest, if you're skinning with aluminum.
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Postby TBuilder » Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:57 pm

All good information, but I'm gonna see if I can get away with a 4' board, and maybe throw in a drop floor if I need it.
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Postby NathanL » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:57 pm

Depending on where you live you can get pre-scarfed plywood from yards that supply wooden boat builders up to 24' long.

Chesapeak light craft will ship pre cut CNC puzzle joint plywood that you only have to edge glue as it has more glue surface than a traditional scarf.

You can buy 4'x10' MDO (not MDF) and 5'x10' MDO in thicknesses from 3/8 to 1" pretty much in any semi large town at a real yard (not a box store) and it's ready to paint with a resin impregnated paper on one side over a high quality exterior grade plywood that is normally used in outdoor signs that works well and requires minimal prep for either paint over it or glassing.
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Postby NathanL » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:59 pm

planovet wrote:
TBuilder wrote:How did you clamp those sheets together?


I did not have any clamps long enough so I used ratchet straps. They tended to curl the ends some so I just weighted the ends down and it worked great.


Another way if you don't have long clamps or ratchet straps is to simply use a couple of 2x's laid across the plywood and screw a foot long piece dopw on top of it on each end for a short clamp to grab onto and let the 2x be the actual long part of the clamp.
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Postby len19070 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:30 am

angib wrote:My gut feel is that a horizontal seam is 'right'.

However the thinker in me says that a vertical seam is probably best for longevity - the horizontal seam is just dying to trap water in it if the joint is ever flexed (ie, cracked), whereas the vertical seam should drain fairly well.

Doesn't matter in the lest, if you're skinning with aluminum.


That was exactly my thoughts on running the grain horizontal also Andrew...Nothing Scientific, just a gut feeling.

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Postby TBuilder » Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:07 am

NathanL wrote:Depending on where you live you can get pre-scarfed plywood from yards that supply wooden boat builders up to 24' long.

Chesapeak light craft will ship pre cut CNC puzzle joint plywood that you only have to edge glue as it has more glue surface than a traditional scarf.

You can buy 4'x10' MDO (not MDF) and 5'x10' MDO in thicknesses from 3/8 to 1" pretty much in any semi large town at a real yard (not a box store) and it's ready to paint with a resin impregnated paper on one side over a high quality exterior grade plywood that is normally used in outdoor signs that works well and requires minimal prep for either paint over it or glassing.


Thanks for the tip. I found a wholesale place that sells 5x9 marine fir plywood. I'll call them to see if they have any retail places that are local.
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