Ever convert a reefer to an ice box ...

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Ever convert a reefer to an ice box ...

Postby GPW » Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:27 am

First , let me say , I was STUPID enough to buy a commercial TT :oops: ... and it has a Norcold reefer in it ... which is Heavy , unreliable , not any good in Hot weather (like we have here) , subject to many recalls , and a total pain to deal with , save the worries of a Fire .. :o
I cannot even consider selling it to anyone else ( I do have a conscience) , and imagine if I remove it , it will sit around my garage as just another piece of expensive useless junk... so I guess the alternative would be to convert it to an ice box .... It is a box with a door and shelves... Maybe just an ice tray and a drain tube... :thinking: I could even insulate the enclosure better ...
Or should I just toss the whole thing out , get an Igloo and not have any worries at all ?

Is this just a Fool's errand ??? Now I have come to Trust and depend on the learned opinions of the many Teardroppers here... mainly because the interest is in making a Quality (and safe) camping trailer, that we don't have to repair every 20 minutes ... It would appear the RV industry is only interested in making money , for themselves and their dealers ... :twisted: I'm Done with them !!!! :thumbdown:
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Postby Pottercounty » Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:41 am

Sounds like alot of work. I would just buy a good used to replace..
best, Tim

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Postby bobhenry » Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:51 am

I on the other hand I would repurpose it as an upright cooler. Strip it down and toss all the unneeded parts to lighten it up. If it has an upper freezer compartment utilize it as a locker for dry ice. The use of dry ice will do 2 things it will allow you to keep things colder and not have the need for a water drain. I would insulate the outside of the cabinet top, bottom, back ,and both sides with aluminum faced polyisocyanurate board 3/4 is about an R 5 if memory serves me correctly. This should greatly increase the effeciency of your new "cooler"
Last edited by bobhenry on Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby GPW » Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:57 am

Tim , Thanks , but I'd rather NOT ... for the above reasons ... ^

BH, yep, that makes sense ... :thumbsup: 8)
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Postby terryjones1 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:25 am

Sorry to hear about bad experiences with Norcold refrigerator.

I have had 3 van RV conversions in the last 8 years.
I had installed Norcold DC0051 12 DCV refrigerators in all.
My experience with this refrigerator is very posative.
I had no problems with controlling tempature, or problems with maintenance.

I am now building a TTT.
I have ordered and received a new Norcold DC0051.
I highly recommend this refrigerator.
My TTT Garageable Standy Build Journal: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=40591
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Postby planovet » Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:29 am

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I was wondering why the water balloon was getting bigger... and then it hit me.

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Postby DMcCam » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:38 am

Hi GPW, I'm building a new version of the ice box for my TD for many of the reasons you site. Perhaps the design thread could be of some help for you. Here's the link:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=42784

It seems to me that you could make something work, at least better than what you have now.

All the best,

Dave
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:47 am

The link to the older icebox thread led into the concept of using frozen salt water to drop the temps in the unit.

A little looking around led to finding frozen salt water can drop the freeze point up to 40 degrees. Figures I saw gave a 23% salt water mix by mass a -5 F freezing point. I am no thermodynamics engineer and an not interested in debating the math but it did set me a thinkin'

Here is what I came up with........

Image

The shelves you see above and below the 2 liter pop bottles of frozen salt water are perforated or perhaps a close wire rack. The inset lid on top is removed and the top shelf is also removed. Place the frozen bottles in place tightly replace the shelf and deposit the crushed ice. Then the food stuffs that are more frequently accessed and are more water tolerant are placed in the bed of ice. While the colder salt water filled bottles will greatly extend the life of the store bought ice it will eventually melt. It will then drips down to the diverter and is funneled down the side close to the super insulated outside walls and deposited into the catch pan where it will give up the last of its cool. A drain is shown but a higher mounted overflow with a trap may be a better option to avoid overflow. The back wall of the front drawer when pulled full out for access should close off the icebox to eliminate the escape of the cold air.

OK what did I miss ?

and does this look to be a viable design ?
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Postby pete42 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:22 pm

GPW I have had three of the RV type fridges and you are right they don't work as well as one with a compressor.

We camped in St Bernard parish SP one very hot I mean very hot time I had installed a muffin fan in the outside rear of the fridge blowing up to help remove the heat from the stack.

with then fam on it lowered the inside temp of the fridge 10 to 15 degrees which is all it took. later I installed another fan this one was 12 volts so I could if needed run it on the battery.

you could give it a try before getting rid of it, remember ICE melts fast in NOLA.

I also have a small college fridge it works very well but is only 120 volts.

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Postby GPW » Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:22 pm

Pete's right .... Everything melts fast here... :o 85F today and HUMID ....

Just that the wife and I do Not care for propane ...#1... and our campsites (evac) are always someplace with electricity ... I've removed pretty much everything propane from the TT .... set it up for our "style" of camping ...
I checked the Nor' and it looks horrible in the back ... corrosion , nasty !!! Just thought I could repurpose it into something friendlier and not subject to so many recalls ... because of the chance of a fire ... :roll:
I have a dorm fridge that's been in the house for 6 years ... working faithfully , no problem . If I wanted a new Norcold replacement , that's over 1K $ Not likely that'll ever happen ...
Now an ice box (literally) would come in Handy ... I read the icebox thread with Much interest ... Think that's a Great idea !!! And if it only looks like a Norcold , that's cool !!! (excuse the pun).. already has nice shelves and a door ... great start ... :thumbsup:

Now say I wanted to yank the guts out ... is that dangerous ??? ... ammonia and all ... Have the propane disconnected already ...
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Postby madjack » Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:34 pm

Ammonia gas is DANGEROUS...it can burn/shrivel your lungs...the correct way would be to have it professionally removed...the redneck way, would be to hold your breath, punch a hole in the system and run (upwind) like hell's after ya...there is not a lot of ammonia so, it should not take long for it to dissipate...but obviously, :roll: I wouldn't recommend the second option..........
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p.s. do you need anyone to hold your beer :D ;) .....................................mj
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Postby planovet » Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:53 pm

madjack wrote:p.s. do you need anyone to hold your beer


...or take pictures?? :lol:
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I was wondering why the water balloon was getting bigger... and then it hit me.

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Postby GPW » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:48 am

MJ , I'll just bring it up to you to remove professionally ... that way we can both run like heck with the Beer... :lol:
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Postby madjack » Fri Apr 08, 2011 8:12 am

GPW wrote:MJ , I'll just bring it up to you to remove professionally ... that way we can both run like heck with the Beer... :lol:


.22Mag from about 50yds...that's about as "professional" as I get...besides, thataway, we don't havvta run and worry about spilling beer :roll: :D ;)
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Postby GPW » Fri Apr 08, 2011 8:41 am

MJ, That'll work !!!! :thumbsup:

Cowboy, I dunno' ??? That would be easy huh , but thinking there may be inner coils involved :o ... don't have a clue really ... never took one apart ... :oops:
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