It's All One Big Hatch

[TBuilder]

OK, so my build has stalled since getting the floor complete.

I'm now stuck trying to figure out how to get the most from a 4x8 piece of plywood, with regards to ease of access(getting my bicycles in/out).

Here's my latest incarnation:


I plan on skinning the hatch with a single layer of 1/8" lauan, with the hatch sides being 6" thick for vertical support. Spars will be concentrated in the front. There will be no doors/windows, maybe just a fanless vent.

Here's what I'm struggling with now:
* how would I hinge that thing? I'd like to consider whatever the pacman was hinged with.
* since I'll be losing alot of the structural strength attributes of a tear, how do I provide lateral support? I guess I could add some bracing of some sort to minimize the top/bottom tendency to slant.
* how do I seal the top/bottom sections? I'm thinking of either rabbeting to create a vertical mini-wall + a rubber seal, or just simply butting the top/bottom together with a rubber seal between.
* how do I raise the thing? It shouldn't be that heavy, but I am considering using some struts to help... I'll have to figure out where to seat them later. The sides will be a single layer of 3/4" birch plywood.
* how do I attach/lock the hatch down? I guess these popup top latches will work: http://www.adventurerv.net/camper-roof- ... p-958.html

What do you guys think?
Comments would be appreciated.

[48Rob]

Perhaps a side entry would be easier than a roof that hinged?

A large drop down door that doubled as a ramp, if needed.
Bikes aren't that heavy, or large, maybe a 4' tall x 3' wide opening could work?
If you were going to use the roof as a hatch, it seems you wouldn't have a galley anyway, so using a side door, even a much larger one than I mentioned would allow you to have a very strong structure with much less chance of leaks.

Rob

[TBuilder]

Rob, thanks for the suggestion.
I wonder if I could build a side that was 90% of the wall, leaving a 6" border around the entire side?

[48Rob]

I wouldn't have a problem with an opening up to 1/3 the size of the side wall.
Anything larger, I'd consult an engineer...

I have a 6" strip of plywood over my door that spans 3', and it is very strong.
It should be noted however, that I have a weight bearing wall just in front of the door opening.
(it doesn't bear much weight, but it does add strength.)
I walk on the roof with no issues and I'm just shy of 200 pounds.

Rob

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b8cc24b3127ccec59f64858bbd00000040O02AbNGjdu5bMge3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/">

[bobhenry]

or a barn





Just kidding , I know they are not for everyone !

However there are many boxter style tiny trailers here on this forum with swing out style rear cargo doors.

Have you given any thought to a dropped floor? The shape of most bkes would allow a well fore and aft and a high section over the axle then the hatch would not have to rise as much.

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

You could forget the hatch all together. Why not put the hinges at the very front on the floor. Let the entire top and sides hinge upwards in one piece leaving nothing but the floor. You’ll need struts to help lift it, but it wouldn’t be THAT heavy. This makes the seal problem and loading/unloading really easy.

[TBuilder]

You could forget the hatch all together. Why not put the hinges at the very front on the floor. Let the entire top and sides hinge upwards in one piece leaving nothing but the floor. You’ll need struts to help lift it, but it wouldn’t be THAT heavy. This makes the seal problem and loading/unloading really easy.

I've spent many restless nights thinking about doing just that very same thing. I guess I could try it, and see how well that goes. The good thing is that with that approach, I can change my mind later without too much headache.

[TBuilder]

Have you given any thought to a dropped floor? The shape of most bkes would allow a well fore and aft and a high section over the axle then the hatch would not have to rise as much.

Good idea, I may put in a dropped floor. I just guesstimated with the bike on top of the trailer, and I think the cross members won't get in the way.

[dh]

How wide are you building? would it be possible to put the bikes in there cross wise with a side door? Do the bikes have to be inside the tear??? I solved the problem by welding a reciever hitch to my frame for a bike rack, then the rack can be transfered to the TV when I make camp, so I can hit that trail 30 miles down the road without breaking camp.

[dh]

I forgot to ask, are you building a camper that holds your bike or a tear shaped bike trailer. If a camper, you will have to open your entire trailer to the elements every time you get up to go to the bathroom if you have no side door, on a really bad night, if you hinded your celing and walls up your blancket could blow away.

[mezmo]

Hi Tbuilder,

Tumbleweed Tex's suggestion is exactly like a lot of the
small tilt bed enclosed snowmobile trailers. Most of them
are small dimension aluminum tubing frame with aluminum
skin and the whole upper structure hinges at the front and
lifts up at the rear with strut lifting assist. For example:

http://www.worthingtontrailers.com/trai ... ilers.aspx

[Just the first Mfr that came up on a Google search. There are
plenty of other builders out there.]

Most of the commercially made units are wide, but no reason you couldn't
make it narrower on a home build. Other than the width, I always thought
something like them would make an interesting conversion to a TD if you
could pick up a used one reasonably.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo