HF Tongue Modification - 2x2 tubing wall thickness?

[Toytaco2]

Well Bob, I took it out for a spin today. The difference in backing up is "night and day" for me (but I'm not an experienced trailer "backer-upper" anyway). I took it to the local school parking lot and practiced backing into spaces, around a curved drive way and putting it in tight spots. It worked great. Got up to 70 mph on the freeway and couldn't even tell I was pulling it.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this mod.

[bobhenry]

Mine was night and day also.

Swayed at 63 mph and a total P.I.T.A. to back up.

Now its a pussy cat even at 80MPH and backing up is a breeze.

I extended mine 15" beyond the stock couplers original position and it ends just in front of the axle to catch as many cross braces as I could.

[kzhorse]

Just a quick question is everyone replacing the coulper with one for 2" or are you shiming the original?And has anyone fliped the original bracket to lower the tube another 2"and placed the 2"x2" threw the original bracket?

Scott

[Nobody]

Just a quick question is everyone replacing the coulper with one for 2" or are you shiming the original?And has anyone fliped the original bracket to lower the tube another 2"and placed the 2"x2" threw the original bracket?

Scott

I replaced the coupler with one that fit my 2" tongue ext.

Not sure exactly what you're asking in part 2 of your question. I 'flipped' the original coupler & modified (with a grinder) the 'A' frame members so it'd fit between 'em', & ran the tongue ext thru the original coupler (see pic in first post of this thread). If you're asking about flipping the original coupler & bolting it to the bottom of the 'A' frame members you'd hafta devise a 'spacer' to go under the first 2 cross members (or whatever you fastened the back end of the ext to on the chassis) in order to maintain 'level' for the tongue length. You'd probably also need additional side support for the tongue ext at the rear to avoid possible excess lateral stress?? I'd think it'd be easier/simpler to just use a 'ball mount' that would place your ball at the correct height to tow the trailer level.

[bobhenry]

I see what Harvey is saying and I think I agree that it sounds like you want to go to picture #3



If you install as picture #2 shows you will plane out directly below all the crossmembers giving you a place to bolt ( or weld) the new tongue to.

I used 2 grade #5 3/8 bolts at each crossmember on the 40 x 48 when I extended it and it goes all the way to the rear. The teardrop was welded to the center spine of my modified ( handrail frame ) to just in front of the axle and the barn runs front to rear and is welded at each crossmember.

[bobhenry]

heres a grearwrench in the fun. I do all th above manuvers and towing with my harbor freight tongue at the same LENGTH as it CAME from the factory.

my other modifications take the place of a mile long tonuge.


SLowcowboy.

I know several people who like a mile long tongue

[Nobody]

I see what Harvey is saying and I think I agree that it sounds like you want to go to picture #3

- - - - - -

If you install as picture #2 shows you will plane out directly below all the crossmembers giving you a place to bolt ( or weld) the new tongue to.

- - - - - - - -

'plane' - that's the word I wuz lookin' for rather than 'level' CRS strikes again. Thanks Bob!

[ARKPAT]

As said by others the trailer pulls and tracks great =)
I used 1/4" wall 2 x 2 tubing that extends as one piece front to back and is 30" longer than the original length. I have a receiver hitch made into the back and 2 x 3 angle running the length of the HF frame and bolted at every place that is already drilled on the HF frame from the factory. I used the method Harvey used as the RECOMMENDED METHOD =) The angle iron I bolted and welded either would work; but I want to be sure my welds hold so I bolted them too =)





Pat

[Toytaco2]

kzhorse,

Regarding the coupler question, I used a new coupler sized for the 2x2 tubing/extension and a 2" trailer ball. I think it looks and works better than a wider coupler and shims. I found the coupler at Tractor Supply - I think it was about 20 bucks.


Good Luck,

Mike

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I'm planning on doing this modification this weekend, but my reason has nothing to do with its handling. My teardrop pulls fine even at 75mph

The front of my teardrop curves out in front of the trailer frame 1'-0", so my knuckles fight with my tongue box whenever I need to adjust the tongue jack height. I just need the extension so I can move my tongue jack forward and away from the tongue box. I guess the handling advantage will just be a bonus for me.

Yesterday, I called a local welding and fabricating shop to price an 8' length of 2x2 tube in both 1/8" and 3/16". The 1/8" was $28 +tax, and the 3/16" was $35.28 +tax.

So for less than $10 more, I think I'll just go with the heavier of the two.

I don't have a welder, so I will just be using bolts. It seems like other people have done the same, so I feel that I should be ok. My extension will move the coupler about 16" forward. I plan on using a bolt down through the original coupler mounting plates, and also a bolt up through each of the front 2 frame rails.

Sound good?

[Dale M.]

I'm planning on doing this modification this weekend, but my reason has nothing to do with its handling. My teardrop pulls fine even at 75mph

The front of my teardrop curves out in front of the trailer frame 1'-0", so my knuckles fight with my tongue box whenever I need to adjust the tongue jack height. I just need the extension so I can move my tongue jack forward and away from the tongue box. I guess the handling advantage will just be a bonus for me.

Yesterday, I called a local welding and fabricating shop to price an 8' length of 2x2 tube in both 1/8" and 3/16". The 1/8" was $28 +tax, and the 3/16" was $35.28 +tax.

So for less than $10 more, I think I'll just go with the heavier of the two.

I don't have a welder, so I will just be using bolts. It seems like other people have done the same, so I feel that I should be ok. My extension will move the coupler about 16" forward. I plan on using a bolt down through the original coupler mounting plates, and also a bolt up through each of the front 2 frame rails.

Sound good?

Just be sure bolt quality is at least grade 5... And probably 3/8 in diameter...

Dale

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Just be sure bolt quality is at least grade 5... And probably 3/8 in diameter...

Dale

Will do! Thanks Dale!

[Yota Bill]

I'm planning on doing this modification this weekend, but my reason has nothing to do with its handling. My teardrop pulls fine even at 75mph

The front of my teardrop curves out in front of the trailer frame 1'-0", so my knuckles fight with my tongue box whenever I need to adjust the tongue jack height. I just need the extension so I can move my tongue jack forward and away from the tongue box. I guess the handling advantage will just be a bonus for me.

Yesterday, I called a local welding and fabricating shop to price an 8' length of 2x2 tube in both 1/8" and 3/16". The 1/8" was $28 +tax, and the 3/16" was $35.28 +tax.

So for less than $10 more, I think I'll just go with the heavier of the two.

I don't have a welder, so I will just be using bolts. It seems like other people have done the same, so I feel that I should be ok. My extension will move the coupler about 16" forward. I plan on using a bolt down through the original coupler mounting plates, and also a bolt up through each of the front 2 frame rails.

Sound good?

check around for a local steel supplier, you will surely get the material cheaper, rather then paying the welding shop as a middleman without them doing any work.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

The place that I'm getting the steel tube from is a local company that's been around for 40+ years. They're a steel distributor and fabrication shop. Maybe there are better prices somewhere but I don't mind supporting the local economy.

The only other place I found was a steel distributor about a 40 min away. For this single piece, I doubt that the price advantage (if any) would be enough to justify the cost of fuel (and not to mention my precious time)

Thanks though!

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I updated my build thread with this, but figured I might as well put it here too.

I finished it up on Saturday afternoon. Took longer than I thought it would.

3/16" is fun to drill through.

The steel I used was 7' long ($32.99). Its bolted to the front and second frame cross members, as well as the original coupler mounting bracket, with Grade 5 nuts and bolts. I replaced the HF coupler with one designed for a 2" tongue ($19.99). Overall extension moved the coupler location forward about 23", which ended up being PERFECT length to allow for the relocation of the tongue jack. If it were much shorter, the jack would not be able to fold up and lock into position.







To anyone who decides they want to do this: Give yourself plenty of time. Use carbide drill bits. I used 1/4" and then 1/2". Use cutting fluid. Drill SLOWLY so you don't destroy the $20 1/2" carbide bit.

I've needed to repaint the tongue for a while, so that red plate will be painted as well. The weather this weekend didn't allow for that.

Also... when you move the coupler from its original position to the end of the steel tube extension, it raises your tongue height by 2". My teardrop now sits much more level than before. I know this can be achieved by a hitch draw-bar, but I don't think anyone mentioned this change in height before. I guess its obvious to most people, but it wasn't to me.