Strut Channel for Chassis?

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Strut Channel for Chassis?

Postby HandyAtLeast » Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:38 pm

Okay, I want to delve into some crazy talk for a minute. Has anyone tried using strut channel for building a chassis? See it here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=by28wp

Yes, it would have its limitations, but there are some great connecting plates and angles available for reinforcing the frame. If you used the slotted (or unstotted), deep channel struts with connecting plates (style 4 and 5), would that function well for a light-duty chassis? There are even some telescoping channel and hinges available. Its not the cheapest stuff in the world, but it is not that expensive either.

Like I said: crazy talk. But, man, it would be fast and easy to mount a trailer to.
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Postby Wimperdink » Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:11 pm

have you priced out how much of that material you would need? You might find yourself over the cost of a HF trailer and a new drill to make holes where you want them.
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Postby HandyAtLeast » Tue Apr 19, 2011 2:52 pm

Uploaded a couple of images of a solid model of a strut channel chassis using 1 5/8" x 1 5/8" channel. I looked at some and it is pretty stout stuff and I am amazed at the number of brackets and connectors available. Fastenal has a ton of different things for it.

Image

This is a bottom view of a 5x8 chassis. I don't have all the brackets on and I may have too many cross pieces. I'm thinking that mounting some half axles would be a snap.

Image

This is an iso view showing the tongue deck whick would serve to reinforce strength. Again, still missing some brackets. Need to work on the mounting of the tongue.

The channel runs about $27 for 8 feet. I calculated a little over $200 for the channel used here (not counting the tongue or brackets so far). I'm not expecting to be cheaper than a HF trailer, but looking for flexability. The telescoping channel would be great for framing up a slide out. The great thing about this is no welding required. Most places that sell struts will cut them for you also.
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Postby HandyAtLeast » Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:19 pm

I'm rethinking the orientation of the channel on the chassis. I have the channel facing up to the trailer and the slotted back facing down with no way to seal from water. If I face the channel down, I can seal it with closure strips on the bottom and end caps ofn the ends easily. The floor of the trailer would mount to the slotted backs of the channel, or the channel could be unslotted and drilled for mounting/bracing.
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Postby schaapveld4 » Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:19 pm

I use strut on a regular basis at work. if you're going this route, you may want to use double strut, it is two pieces of strut welded back to back. its lot stronger for what your thinking of using it for. as for all of the connections, check the quality of the strut nuts (they slide inside the strut and kind of lock themselves in place) I've had some of them snap in half if over torqued. Also I'd recommend using some locktight on all of your bolt threads as they will see a lot of vibration going down the road.
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Postby angib » Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:35 pm

The trick with this strut is how to make the tongue/A-frame, because I reckon almost anything is strong enough for the rest of the frame under the body.

So I ran some numbers on the bigger of the two slotted deep channels, 3-1/4" x 1-5/8", and it comes out about the same vertical strength as a 2"x2"x1/8" square tube. So I think two of those deep channels would make a perfectly good A-frame.
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Postby eamarquardt » Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:45 pm

How does this stuff compare in terms of weight to tubing. Being that one face is open you lose a lot of strength for the weight. I don't think you'll ever be able to seal it sufficiently to prevent any water entrapment and the resulting rust. Where you live, I'd be concerned about corrosion.

Plain steel tubing is probably a lot cheaper than the strut material.

Welds, unlike nuts and bolts, rarely come loose. If you network around a bit and find someone with a chop saw or band saw and welder you can build a frame in a morning.

I'm still a fan of building versus buying a HF or similar frame.

Visit So. Cal. and we'll build you a frame exactly how you want it in a day or less.

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Postby HandyAtLeast » Tue Apr 19, 2011 4:16 pm

schaapveld4: Yes, I think the double would be better. And from what angib says, I'm going to look more into it.

eamarquardt: Welds are definitly better, I know. Sealing this frame might be too much of a problem. But I've always liked Erector sets and this is a nice big one.
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Postby eamarquardt » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:33 pm

HandyAtLeast wrote: But I've always liked Erector sets and this is a nice big one.


Yup, but I prefer to play with my toys at the time and place of my choosing, not on the side of the road in the dark of the night. :lol: The more nuts and bolts you have, the more you have to loosen up. I understand why the airplane makers say if you only have 2 engines, versus 4, you are half as likely to have an engine failure; however, I still prefer 4 engines. The fewer nuts and bolts holding your trailer together, IMHO, the better. :applause:

Cheers,

Gus
The opinions in this post are my own. My comments are directed to those that might like an alternative approach to those already espoused.There is the right way,the wrong way,the USMC way, your way, my way, and the highway.
"I'm impatient with stupidity. My people have learned to live without it." Klaatu-"The Day the Earth Stood Still"
"You can't handle the truth!"-Jack Nicholson "A Few Good Men"
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. The Marines don't have that problem"-Ronald Reagan
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