A 12 ft. FEATHERLITE conversion

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Postby Prem » Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:29 pm

Yeah, I hear that those hollow areas with the rear extensions work, but what a waste of space! Might as well bend the extensions in to a center point. I'm stickin' to stick on AirTabs on three sides. They gain me some extra MPG and are no fuss.

:D
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Postby Prem » Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:10 am

Too much hassle

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Postby Prem » Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:24 pm

Look what's coming! Transparent solar cells for windows:

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http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/2011/transparent-solar-windows-0415.html
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Postby Prem » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:21 pm

At COSTCO this week: Coleman 60 Watt Solar Panel Kit

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Postby Prem » Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:35 pm

5 x 8 :thumbsup:

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Featherlite 12 wall structure

Postby ABH19 » Tue Apr 26, 2011 9:55 am

Prem wrote:After I took out the heavy OSB wall panels, everything that I added back to make it a camping rig barely replaced the weight of the OSB.


I'm thinking of converting one of these 12 footers too, and removing the OSB so I can insulate the walls better (and reduce the weight too, of course). I don't have the trailer yet, so my question is this: does the OSB in the walls contribute to the trailer's structural rigidity? Are there any problems with taking it out?

Also along those lines... I'm assuming there are vertical aluminum posts in the walls that provide structural support, something like the ceiling ridges. From pics, the ceiling supports look like they're about 2 feet apart. Are the wall posts connected to these ceiling ridges? I'm wondering in regard to window placement—where can holes be cut and how big can they be without having to cut through a structural support?
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Postby Prem » Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:26 am

ABH19,

The stiffening added with interior paneling is minimal. I've seen Featherlite car haulers that had none, just bare metal showing.

I took it out because I wanted thin Birch plywood on the interior. Featherlite has that "Wonderwood" OSB made with extra resin/glue and compressed (like MDO in plywood). You could hit it with a hatchet and it would not penetrate. Good stuff for a contractor's cargo trailer. Very durable. Not what I needed.

My trailer is stiffer now than from the factory because I panelled everything including the ceiling, put rigid foam tightly in every hollow and used hardwood crown molding.

For Featherlite trailers, YES on the wall posts being connected to the roof structure. It's all aluminum welded. (And all the steel trailers I've seen are welded there also.)

Hope that answers your question.

Prem :coffee:
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Postby ABH19 » Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:21 am

Prem wrote:Hope that answers your question.


Thanks, that's helpful. I think I'll insulate the walls like you did, and put foam plus an outward facing radiant heat barrier (like mylar) in the ceiling.
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Postby Prem » Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:20 pm

Paint the roof white with RV elastomeric. Kills the heating from the direct sunlight. :thumbsup:
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Postby kickintail » Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:42 pm

Prem wrote:5 x 8 :thumbsup:

Image

Image

who's trailer is this i want more pics
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It makes sense if you don't think about it
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Postby Prem » Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:25 pm

kickintail,

Sorry amigo. I don't know whose it is. Those were only two photos of it I could find. I just thought he did a really good job with such a small trailer.
:thumbsup:
I have a 5 x 10 V-nose that I'm about to convert and took some pointers from these two photos.

Prem
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Postby Prem » Sat Apr 30, 2011 11:56 pm

Speaking of small trailers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHUL1ZnLZ-c
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Postby Prem » Mon May 02, 2011 11:10 am

A REALLY NICE JOB: Somebody built one of my fantasy trailers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C2ufYuoauQ&feature=related
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Postby Prem » Tue May 03, 2011 11:32 pm

Fiberglass cargo trailer from South Africa

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Postby Prem » Wed May 04, 2011 11:07 am

Modular military cargo trailer

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