I used 14 thats right 14 pieces 3/4 thick doubled up with 2x2's between them with a 2x2 piece at the top and a solid 2x2 at the bottom.
No spring back just heavier made than it shoulda been.

mikeschn wrote:HVM,
That's a hatch after Dean's own heart... What better to go with an over built trailer than an overbuilt hatch... Sorry guys, I couldn't resist...![]()
It may be heavy, but it's certainly not going to flex. But you'll need heavy duty hatch supports. I would definitely consider gas shocks, so you don't rupture a disc every time you try to open it.
Mike...
Hardin Valley Magic wrote:O.k. Dean here it is over build of the week.
I used 14 thats right 14 pieces 3/4 thick doubled up with 2x2's between them with a 2x2 piece at the top and a solid 2x2 at the bottom.
No spring back just heavier made than it shoulda been.![]()
Yep that's what happens when there is nothing to hold the shape. The ply is always going to want to straighten out.JohnF wrote:I built my Cubby's hatch with horizontal spars and thought I had it perfectly fitted to the frame...but I now have spring back. <snip>.
Spring back is only common with those who don't listen and insist on building thier hatches with only horizontal spars. The way I built my (but not rule) 5'wide and 4'high hatch with a constant curve in it, was basicly the frame work in the tear. Then I took it to the work bench (after applying about 5 or 6 screws to hold the exterior skin to the frame) and applied all the remaining screws. That first skin was only a temp skin that was on the tear for two years. The current skin is glued with some alum twist nails. When it was finished on the work bench, I took and just placed it where it should go and it fit perfectly just laying in place. So easly a hatch can be built with no problems or spring back.JohnF again wrote:Since spring back seems so darn common there must be some generally agreed-to method of getting out of a bad situation.
What do you recommend?
Hardin Valley Magic wrote:O.k. Dean here it is over build of the week.
I used 14 thats right 14 pieces 3/4 thick doubled up with 2x2's between them with a 2x2 piece at the top and a solid 2x2 at the bottom.
No spring back just heavier made than it shoulda been.![]()
Dean in Eureka, CA wrote: <snip>
Jim,
I don't know if there is a set rule on clearance from sidewall to rib...
I'm still debating that one myself... I wanna put some snaps on the sides of the outer ribs, so I can snap on side wall flaps when the hatch is open, but I need to think about the strike lengths on the latch too. I might run a dado and have the snaps reccessed, so I don't need to have as much clearance... Just haven't made up my mind on that one yet. I just know that putting them on the side of the rib would be a good place, because they wouldn't show when the hatch is closed.
Jim Marshall wrote:Thanks fellows, I really do appreciate your input. I just want to do it right the first time so I won't have to do it over.
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