I snagged an '89 [or '88?] Play-Mor M 1500 a few months ago, and am about to take it out. Here's some thoughts. See Album TT pix linked below to understand some of my assumptions.
1. Your pic indicates it's an A Frame, as seen from the Trailer Ball Coupler going back to the TT 'Box'. >1/2 way back on each of those A Frames is where Sway Bars connect; that's likely the basis for your Mechanic's statement re: needing an A Frame config. I don't have them installed; no need.
2. A non-event, given the Cellphone pic supplied.
3. The option of a 5,000 lb. Towing Package is not applicable, and would be money-wasting overkill. See Outback Towing capacities linked below. If this Website info is off by a hundred lbs. or so, that's 'in the noise' and of no importance. Go only for the 3,500 lb. package at most.
4. You could first try a tow w/o the Tranny Cooler. My Montero Sport is good for 5,000 lbs Towing conservatively, and has overheated the Tranny at >9,000 [thinner Air] in Summer w/the AC on w/towing a Popup Tent Trailer. Only one way to find out; try it. If you 'burn' the Tranny Fluid from excess heat - you'll smell it and perhaps even see it smoking - and the darkened Fluid and Filter will have to be changed out after you limp home w/AC off. I'm not trying to be dramatic; that's sort of what winds up happening. You want to pull over and leave the Engine running to cycle and cool the Tranny Fluid. The full story is that my Tranny Pan was 'undersized'. A larger one was installed by the Dealer @ n/c to quietly 'fess up to the atypical Factory design mistake.
Rather than the likely-present 'Idiot Light', you could likely do a little homework and install a 'real' AT Temp Gauge down the line to first monitor Tranny temps. With 'Real World' Camping gear stowed, you'll be close to the Outback Tow Specs below.
5. In the latest go-round here, I weighed in on the 'gotta have Brakes' side. It's about control on curves, etc., to me, since hitting the Brakes on curves [not tracking in a straight line] to avoid a Deer at dusk is Real Life as I know it. At the very least, stopping distance will be longer w/o TT Brakes. To add them, the Manf. and Model of the Axle must be known, typically, and whether there's a Backing Plate on already for the Brakes to bolt to must be confirmed via pix. My $0.02: put your Moola towards TT Brakes. You can fatigue Tow Vehicle [TV] Brakes on curves, and face Mr. Murphy and his Law RIGHT when you need full stopping power. Rock in the Road, etc..
6. In the casual World of 'Standards', that dry weight of TT
could merit a 1 7/8" Ball or a 2" Ball. Do a dry fit to a Ball [even if unmounted] and confirm what you need. My heavier M 1500 has a 2" TT Factory-installed Coupler [female 'Ball' end]. The Owner might have USED a 1 7/8" Ball; that wouldn't be the first time. You don't want slop or a misfit, but this is very easily confirmed with a quickie dry fit experiment. The Ball diameter size is sometimes stamped on the TT Coupler.
7. A Furnace and Factory-installed Fridge have external, openable Doors, and exterior Vents. I see none in your Cellphone pix. I see no A/C. The 30 Amp Plug/Cable is just right of the Entry Door. The fresh Water fill is further toward the front end of the Box on that same Passenger side. As with mine, your Fresh Water Tank and 115 VAC -> 12 VDC Power Supply is either under the Dinette Seat, or under the Couch [where my Tank is]. Visually chase those down for confirmation by lifting Cushions and Wood Panels
I'm a Dog Lover, so I'd consider converting a Window to accept an A/C as many have done. Wal Mart A/Cs [like 'Haier' Brand] are used, and other folks can recommend accordingly. One fellow loves his Frigidaire A/C.
A Honda 2000 is often the quiet Genny of choice, and can be had new for $1,000- at Farm/Ranch Stores, or other Suppliers. Note the light Genny weight. Rooftop A/C will be MUCH more than anything from Home Despot. 4x $$ or more, if new...
TT Walls/Ceilings are most often 2x2s that measure out at lesser dimensions [1.5" x 1.5"]. Fiberglass 'stuffed' into available cavities nets low Insulation R Values like R-3 or R-4 on a 'good' day at the Factory during installation. Sun beating on TTs really heats them. I have a 12 Volt Fan for our Pooch, but A/C is needed for Dogs. TTs can really become sweatboxes, but Fans and shaded spots in cool Seasonal temps will help. Only ~15 mins of overheated Pooch can cause Heat Stroke. Where I grew up in the low Desert, there were cases every year of 'Palm Springs Poodle'. ~15 mins in the Car while Mom Shops and Fifi cannot recover. Sad, stupid, and it pisses me off because it is SO easily understood, and so avoidable. OK, down off my Soapbox...
8. My
guess is that stowing those weights won't matter. The larger issue is usually where [heavier] things are stowed front/back of of the Axle. With Water weighing ~8.3 lbs/Gallon, many of us wait until we're near the Campsite before filling the Fresh Water Tank. Mine's a 30 Gallon, or ~250 lbs., not to mention 'sloshing' action. I THINK you have an Electric [not Mechnical] Water Pump, but a clearer Sink Faucet pic will tell. Find/confirm that Water Pump near the Water Tank, most likely. Mine's the very-standard 'Shur Flo' Brand. They turn on/off automatically with need for flow.
9. Batteries are very nice; I can't imagine not having one [or two]. From the pic, I can't tell if there's an A Frame 'plate' to hold a Battery or not. A 'Forensic' look for Battery Wiring will tell the tale. My Wiring goes through the front cross section Frame piece through a Grommet. There's lot of Wizards here to chime in. First, confirm what Power Supply/Converter you have by Manf. and Model Number off a Plate on that 'Box'. Archived Documentation will provide details, especially if you have Factory Docs w/Subcomponent Manuals [I don't]. Standard mounting location is usually just in front of the TT Box, on the A Frame. Factory wiring to an OEM Battery [or not] will be obvious, by existence, and by age.
Mine has good ole round, Glass 3 AG Auto Fuses under the Couch for Stop, Running and Turn Lamps. Other Fuses or Breakers will indicate number of Circuits in the Power Supply 'Box', and other Factory-installed details.
Like a 2x4 not actually being 2" x 4", the 1500 reference is to my TT Box being 14' 2", sans A Frame or rear Bumper. It's rounded up to 15'. Mine has 2,400 hard stamped on the A Frame front; the dry weight. If TTs actually weigh what the Dry Weight spec is, then I'm a handsome and slender Underwear Model! Dry weights are known to be low-balled. Your actual Tow weight is likely closer to 2,000 lbs. Weighing the loaded TT on a Truck Scale for a few bucks is the ultimate answer. 'Stuff' and people and Dogs loaded into the Outback also total up to the maximum weight capacity spec'ed out.
One desirable Tongue Load [downward on the Ball] spec is ~10% of TT weight. I'm guessing ~200 lbs. in your case. Chock the TT Wheels and weigh that Tongue load on a Bathroom Scale with a Wood Block, etc., making the TT fairly level. Proper loading prevents 'wander'. If Wind, passing Semi Trucks, or 'grooved' Pavement causes 'excess' TT wander to your taste, install Sway Bars then. I don't predict you'll need them, but it's your Tow; not mine. Location of stored items in the TT can help adjust Tongue load.
My pal's 15' Fleetwood of almost the same year is listed at 2,600 lbs. or so. However, we both have Factory Fridges; Grey and Black Water Tanks supporting full Bathrooms; mine has A/C; etc.. Given that about all lil TTs back then were made the same, with the same materials and often similar Floor layouts, weight info can be inferred from standard Construction techniques. At first I 'scoffed' at your 'light' dry weight value, but the pix supplied later above make that number somewhat believable. Once all set up, go out on an isolated Asphalt, then a Dirt, Road and hit the Brakes in varying degrees to see what happens re: stopping distance and handling. Safety first, of course.
With a keen eye examining similar TTs for sale on Craig's List, or Archival or TT Club info on line, you can discern a LOT. Take and post lots of pix in an Album here, and we can chime in 'authoritatively' based on visual data supplied by you.
Play-Mor is still in Business and still privately held. There's not much info around on them, vs. my Avion TT. Play-Mor's reportedly gone with building larger TTs, and other Trailers. My investigation of my TT 'sample of 1' suggests their materials, techniques and quality are at least average or a little above similar TTs of that time and price point. For example, it's kinda weird to see 'only' large, square 'U' Staples holding Framing together, but that's how it was done. Some 'flex' is desirable in the TT Box. LOTS of House Framing is held together by parallel Nails that pull apart 'easily'.
Good fun awaits!
EG's Play-Mor Trailer Pix
Subaru Outback Towing Capacities
You know a man is on the level if his bubble is in the middle.
