StandUpGuy's TTT (Not-a-RV)

[StandUpGuy]

By the way I took a simple and lightweight approach to my pop up top and thus far it weighs less than 20 LBS. Since it is hinged on one side to pick it up you can use one finger. In addition using fabric will be of no weight really so the only additional will be the rubber membrane for the roof. Simple, no weight issues and no complicated hinged sides and such. Like they say "Keep it simple stupid".

[StandUpGuy]

You never know...it may just settle down a bit once you get it all built/ loaded and a few miles on it, so the 3/4" might not be an issue. I have to either run my 14's down to 5psi for a 1/2" clearance...or swap wheels, which is what I do. I've got some 8"s on a utility trailer that I use. Older Low-liners came with 2 sets of wheels so that they could go into the garage. A hassle...yup, but I have a system, and can swap them out really fast. Nice build! Doug

I completed the pop top short of the rubber membrane. I put it in place and wheeled the trailer to the garage door and as it is now it is just scraping its way under the door and opening. Whew! I know it will grow in height with the membrane in place and with the hinge installed but with a little vaseline and a good push I think it will make it without deflating the tires. If it seetles a litle bit say 1/8" or more then certainly it will go. Here is a photo of the lid scraping the doorway on the way out. Parden the cob webs on the door handle.


By justoneman at 2011-06-11

[StandUpGuy]

I trimmed around the pop up opening today. Here is a photo looking up at the pop top slightly lifted off the roof.




By justoneman at 2011-06-11

[Wolfgang92025]

Standupguy,

I have the same problem with door clearance.
1st time it let air out of my tires and it just cleared.
Then I found a trick that makes it easier for me.

My drive way is close to level, but has a little down hill. But I can push my trailer in and out by hand. So I crank the tongue wheel all the way down. That changes the angle just enough for me with the curvature of the trailer that it just clears the door without having to let the air out of the tires. Funny thing is it only works with pulling the trailer in nose first. Tail first it will drag on the door.

Might be worth a try for you.

[StandUpGuy]

Standupguy,

I have the same problem with door clearance.
1st time it let air out of my tires and it just cleared.
Then I found a trick that makes it easier for me.

My drive way is close to level, but has a little down hill. But I can push my trailer in and out by hand. So I crank the tongue wheel all the way down. That changes the angle just enough for me with the curvature of the trailer that it just clears the door without having to let the air out of the tires. Funny thing is it only works with pulling the trailer in nose first. Tail first it will drag on the door.

Might be worth a try for you.

Good food for thought. When I get it completed on the roof, I shall experiement in the fashion you suggest. I did lower my nose a bit to get the begining of my pop up under the opening. I did not actually remove the whole trailer from the garage yet. It is a big releif that it is already close to coming out. At least I know now that some air let out of the tires will let it fit for sure. Whew!

[mikeschn]

Tight fit? I can relate...



Mike...

[StandUpGuy]

Tight fit? I can relate...



Mike...

Do you have that going on in your current build?

[mikeschn]

Tight fit? I can relate...



Mike...

Do you have that going on in your current build?

Yep!

And once the roof is on, it won't fit in the garage at all.

Mike...

[StandUpGuy]

Tight fit? I can relate...



Mike...

Do you have that going on in your current build?

Yep!

And once the roof is on, it won't fit in the garage at all.

Mike...

On purpose or by accident?

[mikeschn]

Tight fit? I can relate...



Mike...

Do you have that going on in your current build?

Yep!

And once the roof is on, it won't fit in the garage at all.

Mike...

On purpose or by accident?

It was a calculated trade off. I wanted to be able to stand up in the foamie, at least in the middle where the porta potty is.

I am going to build all the internal cabinets and bolt them to the floor prior to putting on the roof.

And once the roof is on, it no longer needs the protection of the garage.

Another approach would have been to build a slouchy, but in another thread, many folks indicated they would like to see a standie design.

So what is a standie for them, and will fit in their garage, won't fit in mine, because I have a lower opening than standard!

Mike...

[StandUpGuy]

Looks like a close call in your garage width wise too!

So let me get this straight. When entering your foamie, one has to crouch in the doorway and then step down into the drop down area? I am gathering there are counter all around the drop down.

[Woodstramp]

Standup,

Was looking at your build again (great work BTW) and noticed your wall thickness where the windows go.



I'm curious. I mentioned that I thought we had windows from the same manufacturer. Seeing that wall thichness I'm thinking we have different windows. Mine came off a fiberglass shell that was only 1/4" thick and with the trim rings that came with it, that is the max that they'd mount back on. I just cut my window mounts in luan and reinforced the edges with epoxy to add strength. You got a pic of your interior trim rings?

[StandUpGuy]

Standup,

Was looking at your build again (great work BTW) and noticed your wall thickness where the windows go.


I'm curious. I mentioned that I thought we had windows from the same manufacturer. Seeing that wall thichness I'm thinking we have different windows. Mine came off a fiberglass shell that was only 1/4" thick and with the trim rings that came with it, that is the max that they'd mount back on. I just cut my window mounts in luan and reinforced the edges with epoxy to add strength. You got a pic of your interior trim rings?

No picture handy right now. My windows too are salvaged from an old fiberglass truck cap. They too have minimal clearance. The trim rings were pop riveted to the window frame. I drilled a million rivets out. I am not sure how I will finish them. I thought I was going to flip the rings the opposite way to increase the gap.

[Woodstramp]

Stanup,

Guess I was lucky with my rings....they had tiny sheet metal screws holding the rings. Bet the pop rivets were a pain.

[StandUpGuy]

Stanup,

Guess I was lucky with my rings....they had tiny sheet metal screws holding the rings. Bet the pop rivets were a pain.

Did your screws go through the trim ring and into the frame of the window and simply squeeze the two together to sandwich the fiberglass shell? Or did the screws secure directly to the fiberglass shell?