Lowe's wall panels

[gratis]

On a scouting trip this weekend we looked at the wall board panels at Lowe's. We really like the blue Linen panels, but I noticed on the tag it said not for application directly to studs. I assume this means they are intended for installation over top of Drywall. Do you think they would be suitable for installation over a framed wall anyway? We are building an insulated camper so it will be pretty much a "stud" wall. I know from experience that these types of panels are less then ideal to use with the air brad nailer, but it seems like Liquid nails should be enough to hold them in place.

Has anyone ever tried these?

[Bandit]

I think the problem is that the panels will split or chip whrn forcing a nail or brad through the panel.
But, if you predrill and are very careful with the hammer, this material would work. The application of adhesive would also be beneficial.

[Jim Marshall]

Gratis, if the panels that you are talking about are tempered masionite, it will warp and wave without something to back it up. I have seen people use it outdoors in a carport ceiling without the backing and it looked like the ocean, it was so wavy. This may not be what you are looking at but I would check to be sure it wasn't before I bought it. JMO

[oklahomajewel]

I saw those too, and even pulled a sheet out of the rack to see how it would bend. Of course, I couldn't find a soul in the store to ask a question and found no brochures or anything online.

I thought of using it , but now may use the cheaper FRP for the interior instead. Or luan or birch... whatever says me money and then I'll just paint it.

Julie

[Boodro]

Juluie
If ya go with the FRP , which side do ya plan on putin out? The smooth side or the textured side ? I put the texture side out, & have not painted it yet. I am testing to see how long it can stay outside& not deterierate . I want to paint some kinda design on it & have experimented with several tests using a digital pic & MS Paint. I have yet made up my mind , its so hard to find it sometimes after building one of these !

[tears&sweat]

Gratis,thats the same panel i used on my first build. The bottom half is pine wainscotting. My walls are insulated and the panels are glued (liquid nail) and brad nailed . No problems so far, it's been a year and no warping. Jim

[Jim Marshall]

Now that is really sharp looking and we like it a lot. I didn't know if it was tempered masonite or not, it must not be. The wainscoting looks great also.

[Sonetpro]

It's called MDF Here's a link with the info. I'm using mine for the ceiling only. I'm using Steve Fredrick's method of glued to the ledge of the wall frames and to the spars and insulation. It should be as tight as a drum. I don't see any problems with it. especially since it's also being installed in a radius.

http://tinyurl.com/72z2q

[oklahomajewel]

It's called MDF Here's a link with the info. I'm using mine for the ceiling only. I'm using Steve Fredrick's method of glued to the ledge of the wall frames and to the spars and insulation. It should be as tight as a drum. I don't see any problems with it. especially since it's also being installed in a radius.

http://tinyurl.com/72z2q

OH, yeah that's right! Now I remember, I looked at the sticker on the back and it said MDF... but since it's 1/8" I wondered if that made any difference. And I guess MDF would fall apart if used on the exterior?
I'll look at that link !

Julie

[cracker39]

With foam insulation in the wall, stuck to the skin with construction adhesive, I'd think the panel would be fine stuck to the frame and the foam. I don't think you'd even need to nail or screw it. Just stick in on and apply molding to the edges. Might work.

[Jim Marshall]

MDF will swell when wet and deteriorates. I would not advise using it on the outside.

[gratis]

Thanks for all the input. I think we are going to go with this stuff for the inside. It looks nice and the price is right for a 5 foot wide tear that will end up wasting a lot of material.

I remember a whole lot of MDF (Masonite) type material in the late 60s camper I tore apart for my father. It seemed to hold up well where it didn't get leaky roof water directly on it.

I am guessing the real issue with this tuff is the need to make sure it is well supported due to the thiness of the material.

[cracker39]

Gratis, my TTT is going to be 5' wide, so I know how much will be excess. I'll use the excess 1/4" plywood for cabinet facings, bed platform, etc. The excess paneling may get used for the cabinet doors just for contrast. I am thinking of running my ceiling material from front to back with a center seam covered by molding. That way, I can cut the 8' lengths into 2 1/2' widths. One leftover 1 1/2' piece can be cut to 5' and run across the back. The molding would form a "T". But, I'm not sure how well that would look. It would take 3 sheets to run it from side to side, but it may look better. I'm thinking of white paneling for the ceiling, light oak on the walls (sides, front, and back).