Questions about walls/materials/strength/techniques...

[kayakrguy]

Friends,

Still reading and learning. Have ALMOST made a decision about the trailer (REd vs TSC). The expertise--hard won, to be sure--of builders here can be intimidating. Since everything I have done since shop 101 (where I had a very vivid encounter with a band saw) has involved a book, asking friends questions or just winging it, this build will likely continue that way. After reading here, I have several questions related to strength, integrity, weight
materials. I will try to KISS them....

1) using 1/4 inch luanoutside and framing with 3/4 inches of insulation with 1/4 inch birch inside...this looks as if it could save weight--would the walls travel well?

2) for the chassis: Is a 1x3 frame bolted to the trailer with insulation and 1/2 inch fir floor on top (inside), outside bottom covered with 1/4" luan and roof tar a strong enough base or would it be unstable at highway speed given the torsion the walls will place on the frame/floor?

3) Roof struts--the builders here seem to favor poplar or other hardwood. I haven't found any of that locally--red oak is the closest I have found so far--at HD. Red oak ok?

4) A general question about weight saving but strong materials/techniques--I would welcome any thoughts that people would offer. My limit is 1000 lbs< (fully loaded) and 100lbs < tongue weight.

5) And a more general question arising out of Mike's 'weekender': if one goes with a solid wall instead of sandwich construction would 1/2" stock be ok strength/travel well?

Thanks,

Jim

[asianflava]

I used 1/8 luan inside and out with 3/4 frame and insulation. All of it glued with epoxy thickened with microfibers.

I also used poplar for my roof spars. I got it at Home Depot next to the Oak. Poplar is popular because it holds screws/nails better then pine and it is cheaper than other hardwoods. Oak would also be fine it will cost more.

[goldcoop]

Jim-

IMO as follows:

1) You could go 1/8" as Rocky suggests, it will save weight and travel just fine.

2) Construction should be just fine.

3) Beech, Birch, Maple, Poplar all have similar properties/costs. You could use Southern Yellow Pine, Hemlock or even Alder if you are out West.
Save the Oak for the Galley Hinge Spar, laminate 2 pcs. for strength there. Just predrill before screwing.

4) I'm assuming you are building 5 x 8 & skinning with Aluminum?

5) 1/2" ply walls should be fine with GOOD mechanical fastening of all walls, floor, spars, etc.

IMO I think you are on the right path to a good solid build within your 1K lb. limit


Cheers,

Coop

[weasel]

I'm usin' 3/4 ply on the Weekender, no insulation. That way the interior will be done. Stain,poly or paint, haven't decided yet. Body should weigh around 600#

[kayakrguy]

Coop,

Thanks for your thoughts re 1/8', 1/2" sheathing/walls. I have not decided about the skin part. One worry--I have never worked with sheet aluminum and am not sure whether I could get it watertight--??? Course, I have the problem no matter what I do! <G>

Jim

[kayakrguy]

Asianflava,

How did you finish of the luan inside and out? Paint, varnish, aluminum..???

Jim

[kayakrguy]

Weasel,

Your build is a tempting one. One thought I have is that here in the mid-Atlantic (New Jersey) we get a lot of hot and humid weather so insulation might be a good thing--and also, if we camp farther south and in NE or midwest in the fall insulation might be nice, too. Decisions, decisions. The 3/4" alternative is tempting...certainly would answer the strength question striaght up...!

Jim

[kayakrguy]

Folks,

From 'down under'--could make TD construction a whole new ballgame?
Would need LOTS of velcro <g>

Jim

[kayakrguy]

From down under http://www.housesofthefuture.com.au/hof ... html#howit

[goldcoop]

One thought I have is that here in the mid-Atlantic (New Jersey) we get a lot of hot and humid weather so insulation might be a good thing--and also, if we camp farther south and in NE or midwest in the fall insulation might be nice, too. Jim

Jim-

Maybe a hybrid like 1/2" ply with skeletal cutout areas for insulation AND weight reduction, then 1/8" skin in & out for a total of 3/4"?

Cheers,

Coop

[asianflava]

Asianflava,

How did you finish of the luan inside and out? Paint, varnish, aluminum..???

Jim

I rolled on some epoxy and tipped it with a foam brush. I will be covering it with aluminum but I was concerned with condensation between the wood and aluminum.

[doug hodder]

Rocky...sounds like you are planning on floating the aluminum... trowel on some carpet cement and that will take care of the aluminum thumping in the wind and minimize the moisture...just a thought...but I know you've been on this forum long enough to know that one... Doug

[asianflava]

Rocky...sounds like you are planning on floating the aluminum... trowel on some carpet cement and that will take care of the aluminum thumping in the wind and minimize the moisture...just a thought...but I know you've been on this forum long enough to know that one... Doug

Yeah I still have to get around to it. I'm gonna do the Henry's carpet adhesive thing. My initial plan was to use glass tape along the roof-wall joint. I couldn't find it light enough (3oz) and long enough. (I could have just bought a sheet and cut it but I ditched the idea by then)

[Ira]

I would just comment on the 1 by 3 for the floor framing:

I went with 2 by 2's, actually measuring 1 1/2 square. Never saw anyone using 1 by 3 for the frame.

[kayakrguy]

Ira,

I think that part of my reason for selecting 1x3 is ummmm ignorance...yes!, that's it! <g> When I think of a 1 x2 (Mike's generic's floor) or even 2 x2's I'm ok when it comes to attaching the plywood floor. It's when I try to visualize putting 3/16 inch carriage bolts (with pre-drilled holes) through there that I get nervous as in: my TTT is loaded to 999lbs and suddenly the Tractor trailer on my right tries to pull in front of me as I am passing him (its raining and he can't see me in his spray--had this happen on I-84 coming back from Kentucky to NJ) I swerve to the left to avoid getting hit, correct to the right on the berm and watch the TTT swaying back and forth on those 1x2 or 2x2's. Would they stand up on that stress or splinter? Now, if the smaller lumber can take the stress, then I'm ok with that. I know I am not building a tank or a hilton--well a SMALL hilton ,G>

Jim