Red Folding Trailers--any experience with these?

[kayakrguy]

Folks,

TSC New Jersey site is Washington NJ NOT Washington NY...sorry!

Jim

[kayakrguy]

Tom and all,

Thank you for the advice and information. I am curious about the Red Trailer modifications. Those dealing with making it rigid and not foldable I get.
What I am uncertain about is why it is necessary to change where the axles attach. I realize there are rules of thumb about where the axle weight should fall--60x40--etc. Is there a problem with this with the RT as delivered?

Also, IF one DOES move the axle just what minimum of tools does one need to accomplish that? And, as a sidebar...if I put a metal cutting blade in my mitre saw can I cut angle supports as in transforming the RT to a rigid configuration?

Thanks again,

Jim

[toypusher]

......What I am uncertain about is why it is necessary to change where the axles attach. I realize there are rules of thumb about where the axle weight should fall--60x40--etc. Is there a problem with this with the RT as delivered?...........

Typically there is alot more weight in the galley area, thus causing a light tongue weight. Moving the axle back with even this out.

Also, IF one DOES move the axle just what minimum of tools does one need to accomplish that? And, as a sidebar...if I put a metal cutting blade in my mitre saw can I cut angle supports as in transforming the RT to a rigid configuration?

I used a metal cutoff blade in my circular saw to cut crossmembers from an HF trailer. You should only need a drill in additon to sockets or wrenches for the bolts. You will have to drill some new holes to rebolt the axle assembly to the side members.

[TomS]

Thank you for the advice and information. I am curious about the Red Trailer modifications. Those dealing with making it rigid and not foldable I get.

What I am uncertain about is why it is necessary to change where the axles attach. I realize there are rules of thumb about where the axle weight should fall--60x40--etc. Is there a problem with this with the RT as delivered?

The reason for moving the axle back is to achieve the proper balance. Teardrops tend to be tail-heavy because the galley and most the storage is located in the rear of the trailer. I built mine according to the Kuffel Creek plans, locating the axle 36" from the rear of the trailer.

A trailer that is too tail-heavy will not track well. It will fish-tail at highway speeds making it hard to control.

Also, IF one DOES move the axle just what minimum of tools does one need to accomplish that? And, as a sidebar...if I put a metal cutting blade in my mitre saw can I cut angle supports as in transforming the RT to a rigid configuration?

I borrowed a metal chop saw. I also used an air-powered cutoff tool, a heavy-duty corded drill, an impact wrench and varoius hand tools, including an assortment of open and box ended wrenches.

I own a DeWalt mitre saw, but have never tried using a metal cutting blade with it.

[madjack]

...just remember that if you put a metal cutting blade in a miter saw that the continuos shower of sparks can melt any plastic parts they spray on plus coat any moving/adjusting parts with metal dust...I would prefer to use such a blade in a regular skill saw or get a side grinder ($15@HF) and use a cut off wheel in it
madjack

[kayakrguy]

Kerry, Tom and MJ,

First, thanks for the heads up on the mitre saw/metal cutting--bad idea 26.5 into the shredder. Will take MJ's advice on that if I get the Red Trailer and do the modifications. Tom, that list of tools makes me think you moonlight at the HD tool rental place!

I am curious about one thing. I do understand the need to keep the trailer/axle/tongue/center of gravity lined up so as not to be light on the tongue. What I am not clear about is why that is a problem with the Red Trailer and not say, the TSC or HF? I would assume (dangerous?) that trailers would be built in such a way that the CG/axle/tongue thing would be ok, assuming normally distributed loads. I do understand that the TDs are tail heavy...but why is that a problem with just the RT and not the others?

Thanks guys!

[mikeschn]

Andrews spreadsheet to the rescue...

It doesn't matter which trailer you are talking about, if the axle is too far forward, you are going to have problems... the best way to determine the best axle location is to review andrew's balance spreadsheet... (That's in the design library... in the menu up there...)

Mike...

[TomS]

The same balance and axel placement principals apply no matter what trailer frame you use. I don't have experience with the TSC frames. But, there have been numerous posts about moving the axel back on HF trailers. Ira authored several posts on that very topic.

Fortunately for me My son has a 5 HP air compressor with various tools. It came in handy througout all phases of the build.

[madjack]

having too much weight on the tongue is not as bad as not having enough...if the tongue is too light, everytime you hit a bump the coupler is trying to lift off the ball...not a good thing. If you have too much weight on the tongue, your vehicle will be affected by not having enough weight on the front wheels causing a deterioration of braking and a lessening of "bite" on slick roads. Also under heavy braking, a real light weight on the trailer axles can cause fishtailing and even jackknifing so you want to try and and hit that sweet spot somewhere between 10% and 20% of total weight onto the tongue
madjack

[rampage]

i have a question about the wood brace. should you use pt lumber? or put a coating of something on it? i'm doing mine tomorrow and i'm gonna use pt lumber if i dont hear from anyone on this. thanks

[madjack]

...using pressure treated lumber would be OK...probably better than coating a regular board ...........................

[mikeschn]

i have a question about the wood brace. should you use pt lumber? or put a coating of something on it? i'm doing mine tomorrow and i'm gonna use pt lumber if i dont hear from anyone on this. thanks

What wood brace are you talking about?

Mike...

[rampage]

I meant the cross member. Sorry.

[mikeschn]

Ah, that cross member in the chassis. Anything will work. Pine, poplar, spruce, oak, pt wood... your choice...

I would probably just use a pine or spruce, so that I can put a coat of roofing tar on it. Just pick a piece that is free of knots...

Mike...

[TomS]

I used a plain old 2x4, not treated.