Corrugated Roofing

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Postby droid_ca » Sun Jul 10, 2011 6:46 pm

I liked the idea of using the Corrugated metal cause you could use the roof as a rain water collector and have it redirected with the use of some strategicly placed rain gutters it would make your vardo feel more like a home then a trailer
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:22 am

hmmm I really appreciate the input, but I didnt realize it would involve as much as it would need for it to work. Im gonna have to think about it some more....Ive been rethinking my build alot since getting a larger more powerful tv.

thanks for the input!

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Postby willyswagon » Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:09 pm

I investigate curve roofs once. Could order the following product from Lowes. It was a more expensive than instore stock but available.

http://www.curveline.com/about-curvelin ... panels.htm


An idea anyway................
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Postby rowerwet » Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:33 am

the channels on the roofing won't matter that much to rain, look at all those premade metal carports sold with the roofing ribs going the "wrong" way, snow won't slide off so easy but rain isn't the problem you might think.
I considered using the enameled steel roofing for my TD, but couldn't figure out how to take care of the edges to keep the ends of the ribs sealed. Even really chunky edge trim like at T@B would take a ton of finicky fitting...
I put these panels on my house roof and love it, the manufacturer paperwork says steel panel roofing is rated the best for hurricane resistance compared to shingles.
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:52 pm

So if I ran the corrugated roofing long way, and put purlins in every foot, what is roofing felt for?

thanks
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Postby rowerwet » Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:29 am

with shingles it helps waterproof the edges where water blows under the shingles, with steel the felt keeps the sweat on the inside of the panel out of your house.
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:40 am

With the corragations running in the direction of travel they can scoop up a lot of wind driven water in route. You might look at ice dam material for the 1st and last two foot of the run front and back.This is simply a big sticky rubber membrane. It can be stretched spar to spar but I think I would offer it some backing with maybe 1/4" ply let in to plane out with the spars. After installing the membrane and installing the roof that nifty yellow foam in the can could be foamed into the voids and will stop all water infiltration.

How do I know......... When we added on our kitchen I had to cut thru the existing roof to set the mono trusses and working alone I knew rain would be an issue. Relaying my fears to the wife she said "Why don't you just foam the hole?" DUH ! it worked great and despite 2 or 3 good rains while getting the roof decked and weathered in no drips in the plastered ceiling in the dining room.
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:23 am

Hello

Well Im going to be useing 1/4" exterior plywood on the roof. Im going to try doing my roof similar to the pic Image Now I saw at lowes they sell the precut "wavey" lumber to set in the front and back side of the roof, but the low fill spray foam is a great idea to help fill the gaps. Im hopeing if I calk the "wavey" wood after screwing it down might help keep out the driving rain You know far more about this then me. Would the roofing felt cut down on the sound when its raining outside? Where can I buy the ice membrane? Is it a HD/Lowes kind of product?

thanks!
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Postby rowerwet » Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:25 am

if the blue/orange/green borg don't stock it they can order it in at the pro desk
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:03 am

Im gonna have to check then at the special order desk, they only had full 3' by 33' rolls for about $75
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:51 am

Deryk the Pirate wrote:Im gonna have to check then at the special order desk, they only had full 3' by 33' rolls for about $75


There ya go ! Cover the whole roof three 11' runs with a 8" to 12" overlap and you are waterproof and sound deadened also. The membrane is also self healing so fastner penetration will not cause a leak so that solves yet another problem. ! You WILL need good help and a calm day to install it without wrinkles cause when it touches it sticks (read no do-overs)

Just a dumb question have you concidered a rubber roof it could be faux painted to resemble leather !
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:52 pm

Just a dumb question have you concidered a rubber roof it could be faux painted to resemble leather !



I was thinkin of paintin the metal faux copper lol
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Postby Blotto Bros » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:03 am

In thinking about the drainage/ wind issue my thoughts are:

1. Make the center cross member very slightly higher than the end ones to put a very gentle slope to the roof....an inch will do fine. This allows water to run off rather than pool.

2. When you order your metal get it from a roofing supply house...they have machines to cut the EXACT length you want.

3. Ask them to cut several 6" pieces and use them to double the thickness of your roof at the very front. This gives that area that receives extra stress more material/strength to resist tear off from highway speed winds. I would install and seal roof as normal then go back over with these pieces.
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Postby Deryk the Pirate » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:35 am

Good Points Blotto! I'm gonna have to check with a few roofing places for better prices. Wonder if they sell any in faux patina'd copper look lol


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Postby aggie79 » Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:49 pm

Deryk the Pirate wrote:Wonder if they sell any in faux patina'd copper look lol


Deryk


With the price of copper these days, you don't want somebody trying to steal your roof because they think it is copper!
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