Building on a 41inch x 48 inch harbor freight trailer

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Postby Danny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:31 pm

tinksdad wrote:
Danny wrote:
tinksdad wrote:With 3/4" walls, I ended up with a finished weight of 321 pounds dry (mattress and battery in the tongue box included).
....Noy bad, with thinner walls, and no tongue box, I should come in at about 250 or so..Excellent :twisted: Now, I have 3 new designs drawn up,, Decisions must be made :thinking:At 250 pounds or less,just unhook it and back it in by hand.. 8)


Even fully loaded for camping, with the jack wheel I can push it around by myself. Makes getting the ideal position on the site at the campground pretty easy. Just have to remember to push where the wall meets the roof. The roof skin flexes if I don't push exactly where the spars are.

If I'm not mistaken, Rolly got the Quarter Nelson to come in around that 250 mark. Shipping weight on the trailer with 12" wheels is 98 pounds.
:applause: Roly is a legend!...I am leaning toward a micro kit profile..I don't know maybe the harley enthusiasts can chime in here and help me decide.. Would harley riders rather tow a kit type profile or, a simple profile say 20 inch front radius 24 inch rear radius???.. :thinking: * remember this is going to be approx. 41 x 78 long box..Wish I had a scanner, I would put my drawings on the board here. Drat! thanks for the help, Danny
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Postby StandUpGuy » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:28 pm

Ah...ah... :thinking:


Never mind.
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Harbor Freight Trailers

Postby Wild Bill » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:39 pm

Seems to me that with the costs of mods to an HF trailer, axle, tongue, etc in this post, you could purchase a much better quality trailer made in America, for the same money and it would not need any modifications before starting a build. I realize that cost and weight are all important factors, but quality of components like bearings and thickness of the steel are worth the extra costs considering all the time and money you bolt on top of it. I know a lot of people build on them and to each his/her own. Just my 2 cents worth. Bill
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Re: Harbor Freight Trailers

Postby Danny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:23 pm

Wild Bill wrote:Seems to me that with the costs of mods to an HF trailer, axle, tongue, etc in this post, you could purchase a much better quality trailer made in America, for the same money and it would not need any modifications before starting a build. I realize that cost and weight are all important factors, but quality of components like bearings and thickness of the steel are worth the extra costs considering all the time and money you bolt on top of it. I know a lot of people build on them and to each his/her own. Just my 2 cents worth. Bill
Made in america? They shipped all the jobs overseas so, everyone is broke. :( That is why we buy cheap Whang Ho trailers :lol: The little harbor freight trailers are a low cost way to build,trust me, with this economy, it is DARN hard to get a profit if you spend to much on a build..Most folks want something they can camp in without shelling out 5000+ bucks..
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Postby Danny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:38 pm

OKEY Dokey, back to my question::I am leaning toward a micro kit profile..I don't know maybe the harley enthusiasts can chime in here and help me decide.. Would harley riders rather tow a kit type profile or, a simple profile say 20 inch front radius 24 inch rear radius???.. * remember this is going to be approx. 41 x 78 long box..Wish I had a scanner, I would put my drawings on the board here. Drat! thanks for the help, Danny
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Re: Harbor Freight Trailers

Postby parnold » Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:52 pm

Wild Bill wrote:Seems to me that with the costs of mods to an HF trailer, axle, tongue, etc in this post, you could purchase a much better quality trailer made in America, for the same money and it would not need any modifications before starting a build. I realize that cost and weight are all important factors, but quality of components like bearings and thickness of the steel are worth the extra costs considering all the time and money you bolt on top of it. I know a lot of people build on them and to each his/her own. Just my 2 cents worth. Bill


I would guess that there is a large percentage of builders who have a limited budget. In many instances a HF frame requires no modification, and is certainly at the low end of cost. It's very possible, that in the given economy you can get a custom "USA" made trailer at a very fair price, but probably double the cost of a HF.
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Postby Danny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:08 pm

Don't get me wrong, if we can find a nice used american trailer on the net at a good price,we will snap it up..Most anything that rolls is at least several hundred bucks,sometimes bargains can be found however.
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Postby tinksdad » Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:06 am

Danny wrote:Don't get me wrong, if we can find a nice used american trailer on the net at a good price,we will snap it up..Most anything that rolls is at least several hundred bucks,sometimes bargains can be found however.


If you find one, snap it up. I've come across a plethora of single jet ski trailers in the $150-250 range on the local Craig's List; but always too late. You got to be quick. They all sold within minutes of hitting the board.

As to the question at hand... go Kit. I like the graceful curves a lot more than simple radii.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:08 am

slowcowboy wrote:forgive me bob. I don't mean to be rude. but I own a stock harbor freight trailer frame with a factory length tongue. I am not finding it a problem to back any where I want to.

but I have a sercert to all that folks.

I just moved my axle to the rearend of the trailer.

slow.


And by moving the trailer axle to the rear you have essentially lengthened the tongue !
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:11 am

slowcowboy wrote:bob. just curios. you said your towing the chuck wagen behind the barn.

you say tonight your having problems backing it up.


Slowcowboy.


I have modified the tongue so the chuckwagon can be removed and shoved one handed into any reasonably level area be it grass gravel or pavement.

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Last edited by bobhenry on Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:13 am

As to style I was real pleased with Eggbert while towing him behind the Goldwing!

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Postby pete42 » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:46 am

BobHenry Said "And by moving the trailer axle to the rear you have essentially lengthened the tongue !"

You also add weight to the tongue so trailer pulls better, moved the "break over" point farther back which makes backing easier.

some don't understand how a fulcrum works, think teeter-totter.

But If you want space on the tongue for a battery or box then maybe doing both lengthen the tongue and moving the axle you end up with the best of both worlds.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:01 am

Yeah what pete said.....

Chuck wagon box measures 40 x 72+ and on the nose is an 18" deep tongue box making it just under 8' long on a 40 x 48 frame.

Image

This gave me 160# tongue weight about 1/2 loaded. Have test towed it alone not quite 200 miles and it pulls sweet. I hope it is as meek and mild mannered behind the barn towing as doubles :worship:

I am nuts , here it is 24 hours from my departure to CRA and still have not towed "the train" 10 feet. I am either real confident or real nieve.

P.S. yes I cleaned , sanded , and painted the tongue box since this picture was taken. :thumbsup:
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Postby Danny » Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:42 am

tinksdad wrote:
Danny wrote:Don't get me wrong, if we can find a nice used american trailer on the net at a good price,we will snap it up..Most anything that rolls is at least several hundred bucks,sometimes bargains can be found however.


If you find one, snap it up. I've come across a plethora of single jet ski trailers in the $150-250 range on the local Craig's List; but always too late. You got to be quick. They all sold within minutes of hitting the board.

As to the question at hand... go Kit. I like the graceful curves a lot more than simple radii.
:thumbsup: Yes, the kit is pretty much the standard "eye candy"..The main problem with designing a 78 incher, is of course sleeping area,,,"Toe room".. :lol: adding a curve to the bottom front looks better, BUT, you lose floor length..Thus the solution is, Kit profile, with no,or, very little bottom front curve..This should be ok for all but the tallest people.. :thinking: I have it drawn up 3 ways..full curved front, partial curved and ,flat bottom front.,, if you look at most kit knock offs, they use the no bottom front curve approach..
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Postby Danny » Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:45 am

Example of real thing:Image
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