DC and AC Electrical Panels

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Postby rampage » Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:59 pm

do you guys know if you can run the ac and dc at the same time with this converter? i read thier text but maybe i missed it.
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Postby madjack » Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:08 am

...if you are talking about the Best Convertor, the answer is yes...it is an electrical distibution box for all your electrical needs
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Postby cracker39 » Sun Feb 19, 2006 4:33 am

Hi Rampage. I'm thinking of changing my mind again and getting that converter...the 25 amp model.

Where in Florida are you located?
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Postby Sonetpro » Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:11 pm

mwolford wrote:
Does anyone have a good diagram and parts list (source) for a AC/DC Electrical Panel for my TD/Benroy?


After considering the need to purchase AC breakers, DC fuse block, a box to put them in, 12V power supply, battery charger, and possibly a battery minder, I purchased this box for $123.00. It does all of the above and is in a nice looking, nice sized package.
http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=63

Mike


I like it, all in one package. I just ordered a 25 amp. I only planned on one 110 circuit anyway and dc is perfect. I will wire high loads to dc off the panel and one of them I will use as a main for a sub panel with 5 amp circuits
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Postby cracker39 » Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:24 pm

Sonetpro wrote:... I will wire high loads to dc off the panel and one of them I will use as a main for a sub panel with 5 amp circuits


I didn't think of that and it's a great idea. A 4-fuse block costs very little at the auto parts stores. I saw a 6-fuse block for $8 at one store.

Got another electrical question for the experts. Does it make a difference if you daisy-chain all of the ground wiring, using a 12 ga. wire, than running individual wires from a ground block?
Dale

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Re: DC and AC Electrical Panels

Postby Steve_Cox » Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:49 pm

Bandit wrote:Does anyone have a good diagram and parts list (source) for a AC/DC Electrical Panel for my TD/Benroy?
Thanks,
:thumbsup:


AC and DC Electrical panels... I tried to keep it simple. Used premade panels that were from the marine industry. I didn't have a critical load that required a constant "12 Volts" only lighting for the most part. That allowed me to use my cheap simi-dumb battery charger from Grainger. I do control the charger from my 120 volt panel with a dedicated "battery charger" circuit. The oly thing I might add to this set-up would be a 0-12 Voltmeter with a momentary pushbutton to turn it on when checking voltage.

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Postby Sonetpro » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:22 pm

cracker39 wrote:
Sonetpro wrote:... I will wire high loads to dc off the panel and one of them I will use as a main for a sub panel with 5 amp circuits


I didn't think of that and it's a great idea. A 4-fuse block costs very little at the auto parts stores. I saw a 6-fuse block for $8 at one store.

Got another electrical question for the experts. Does it make a difference if you daisy-chain all of the ground wiring, using a 12 ga. wire, than running individual wires from a ground block?


Dale I plan on doing that, But am going to use a larger wire for the common ground. Probally a 6AWG with 12 ga c-tapped off it. Ground (return) must be as large as your supply.
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Postby cracker39 » Sun Feb 19, 2006 2:48 pm

I was only thinking of a common ground for my fan and two lights, probably no more than 6 amps. I was considering running these off one of the circuits from the Best Converter. The 12VDC outlets would have their own hot and ground wires from the other two converter circuits.
Dale

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Postby rampage » Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:03 pm

cracker39 wrote:Hi Rampage. I'm thinking of changing my mind again and getting that converter...the 25 amp model.

Where in Florida are you located?

Dale, I'm in the Jacksonville area. I believe I will be getting the 25 amp model too.
Where do you guys plan on placing the unit? tongue box? galley?
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:24 am

Since my trailer isn't a TD, I have an inside "galley" (i.e., a "kitchen" counter) and a low cabinet on the left side for my porti pottil. I haven't made my final decision to locate electrics yet, but it is likely to be in one or the other. It won't be in my tongue box, as I want it where I can access it easily and quickly. I'll wait unti I have the unit in hand and see where it will best fit in. I may even extend the galley cabinet to the ceiling by making a narrow "cabinet" from the counter top to the ceiling at the left side for the electrics. that will give me depth to place my outlets and an auto type radio if I decide to put one in.

Any electrical equipment (breakers, fuses, etc.) should not be placed near the battery, unless the battery is completely isolated, as sparks could ignite gasses given off by the battery while charging. All I'll have in my tongue box is the battery and will store my shore power cord and leveling jacks in it.

Being in Jax, you're pretty close to Steve Cox.
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Postby Artificer » Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:50 am

cracker39 wrote:
Got another electrical question for the experts. Does it make a difference if you daisy-chain all of the ground wiring, using a 12 ga. wire, than running individual wires from a ground block?


The 2 main drawbacks to doing this are combined amps, and connection failure. The single ground line needs to be able to handle the current of all the circuits. 12ga wire gets you 20 amps, so 4 5amp circuits are fine. The rule of thumb is only 80% loading, so your usefull amperage is only 4amp/circuit.

The single ground becomes a point failure for everything. If it has a problem, then everything in the trailer has a problem. Not a big deal, but something to consider.
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Postby mikeschn » Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:58 am

Artificer wrote:The single ground becomes a point failure for everything. If it has a problem, then everything in the trailer has a problem. Not a big deal, but something to consider.


Hi Artificer,

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you know a thing or too about electrical. Maybe you should pay Ira a visit! ;)

So what are you planning on building?

Mike...

P.S. Madjack told me to tell you; "Remember da pics"! :lol:
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:38 pm

Artificer wrote:
cracker39 wrote:
Got another electrical question for the experts. Does it make a difference if you daisy-chain all of the ground wiring, using a 12 ga. wire, than running individual wires from a ground block?


The 2 main drawbacks to doing this are combined amps, and connection failure. The single ground line needs to be able to handle the current of all the circuits. 12ga wire gets you 20 amps, so 4 5amp circuits are fine. The rule of thumb is only 80% loading, so your usefull amperage is only 4amp/circuit.



I can live with that. I would only have the vent fan, and maybe 3 lights on at any time on the one circuit. The light bulbs pull 1.2 amps each I believe and the manufacturer's specs on the vent fan is 3 amps max. That's a total of 6.6 amps max being used.
Dale

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Postby Artificer » Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:08 pm

mikeschn wrote:Hi Artificer,

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you know a thing or too about electrical. Maybe you should pay Ira a visit! ;)

So what are you planning on building?

Mike...

P.S. Madjack told me to tell you; "Remember da pics"! :lol:


I'm an ag engr in charge of a small prototyping lab doing ag equipment research, so while not an expert, I've done a bit of wiring, along with everything else.

I'm half way done with a trailer based on the "Trailer for Two" as shown at: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear20.htm

It has 60" interior (63.5" exterior), and is 10' long to fit a queen sized futon. It uses a frame I made myself. If I can get some time to throw together a web page, I'll post some progress pictures. (is that the "Remember da pics"!?)

I'll post a project synopsys in the next few days, if time permits.
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