why do nuts stay tight on spring hanger bolts?

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why do nuts stay tight on spring hanger bolts?

Postby mike_c » Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:16 am

Hi all--

Work on my chassis is progressing! The frame and cross members are done, I'm welding on the tongue today, and I've mounted the axle sort of. I say "sort of" because I have the axle seat and the front and rear spring hangers welded on and the axle bolted up loosely, but nothing is tightened yet.

I'm using an Alko 2K# straight axle, mounted underslung.

Looking at it is sketching me out though. First, the U-bolt nuts came without lock washers and I wonder how tight they'll stay. Can anyone offer some reassurance about that, or should I go and buy lock washers anyway?

Second, I realize now how the springs flex in the rear hanger and shackle, and I'm freaked out about the nuts loosening as the bolts rotate slightly in the hanger and shackles. What keeps them from loosening?! The bolts are splined, so I can see how they move "with" the shackles, but what about the nuts? Why don't they loosen as the shackle moves back and forth and the bolts twist slightly in response?

--Mike C.
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Postby LDK » Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:23 am

Maybe you could use lock washers and nylock nuts too. Just a thought.
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Postby Cdash » Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:23 am

I am by no means and expert, but when I had to replace these on my rather large RV with tandem axles, the bolts were shouldered, and only threaded on the end. So there was really no outward pressure on the nut that would cause the rotation to loosen it.
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Postby mike_c » Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:49 am

Cdash wrote:I am by no means and expert, but when I had to replace these on my rather large RV with tandem axles, the bolts were shouldered, and only threaded on the end. So there was really no outward pressure on the nut that would cause the rotation to loosen it.


I'm guessing that's the case with mine, too, although the shoulder is certainly not obvious-- but the threads are only cut on the ends of the bolts and I'm assuming that once the splines are fully seated there won't be any contact with the nuts, even when they're tightened all the way down, because they'll be at the end of the thread and still have some air between them and the shackles, etc. Scares me to look at it assembled loosely and think about pulling it down the highway with the shackles flexing back and forth, though!

--Mike C.
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Postby Steve_Cox » Mon Jul 25, 2011 2:03 pm

Most hangar bolts use distorted thread locking nuts. Photo came from Mcmaster.com is of a center distorted thread, but there are several types including an oval distortion that is almost undetectable just looking at it.

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Postby Yota Bill » Mon Jul 25, 2011 3:50 pm

as Steve Cox said, the nuts should be a design that is self locking, and some of the designs take a very close look to see the distortion. I always leave mine with a small gap to make sure the spring and shackles do not bind. You dont want to crnk those down tight so that the spring or shackles cannot turn around the bolt.
If you think they are not self locking, or are still concerned with it, thread another nut on and tighten it against the first one (if you have enough threads), which will stretch the bolt slightly between the two nuts and lock them both in place, and still allow you to leave a small gap.
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Postby dh » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:16 pm

Steve_Cox wrote:Most hangar bolts use distorted thread locking nuts. Photo came from Mcmaster.com is of a center distorted thread, but there are several types including an oval distortion that is almost undetectable just looking at it.

Image


+1 :thumbsup:
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Postby Dale M. » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:40 pm

Steve_Cox wrote:Most hangar bolts use distorted thread locking nuts. Photo came from Mcmaster.com is of a center distorted thread, but there are several types including an oval distortion that is almost undetectable just looking at it.

Image


Ditto....

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thanks all-- hubs are built, wheels are on....

Postby mike_c » Tue Jul 26, 2011 10:42 am

Today it gets a tongue and (hopefully) stabilizer jacks!

--Mike C.
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Postby dh » Tue Jul 26, 2011 11:55 am

These distorted thread bolts go on like nylocks. A little trick I use to make life easier when putting all 6 in a trailer is to use an air ratchet (not impact gun) which goes slow enough that you won't overtighten.
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Postby grant whipp » Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:46 pm

Steve_Cox wrote:Most hangar bolts use distorted thread locking nuts. Photo came from Mcmaster.com is of a center distorted thread, but there are several types including an oval distortion that is almost undetectable just looking at it.

Image


+2 ... :thumbsup:
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