Modifying Bolt together frames

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Modifying Bolt together frames

Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:48 pm

Deleted content.
Becky
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Last edited by Oldragbaggers on Thu Aug 25, 2011 7:59 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby asianflava » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:00 pm

At the very least you have to move the axle rearward. It is a cargo trailer, a teardrop is pretty empty in the front, the galley is where most of the weight is. If you don't move the axle, it will be too light ion the front which can cause fishtailing. You also have to move the wheels because you can't open the doors.

I built a custom frame so I didn't have to worry about having to work with what they gave me.
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Postby Steve_Cox » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:03 pm

I agree with Rocky 8)
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Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:05 pm

Okay, so say all I did was move the axle.... would I be courting disaster to leave the rest as is? I see most of these other modifications being discussed as if it is just a foregone conclusion that they are things that HAVE TO BE done. Is that the case, or are folks erring on the side of extreme caution and overbuilding?
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Postby Sonoma ZR2 » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:09 pm

The other option available would be the 5x8 welded trailer available at Northern Tools Stores.
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Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:14 pm

Sonoma ZR2 wrote:The other option available would be the 5x8 welded trailer available at Northern Tools Stores.


And is the axle movable on that one, or placed in a more ideal position?

We're much closer to a NT store than we are to Michigan. I would definitely be interested in checking that one out.
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Postby Sonoma ZR2 » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:20 pm

Here is a thread on the 5x8 trailer and the reinforcement for the tongue. http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=22538
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Postby madjack » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:46 pm

I'm in the custom frame club...you get EXACTLY wattcha want from the get-go...having said that, these modifications come from hundreds of builds and what has been learned from them...take and use them as you will...there have been plenty of builds on unmodified frames...some successful, some notso, the choice is upto you..........
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Postby Lgboro » Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:05 am

I am nearing completion of a tear built on a CarryOn trailer from Tractor Supply and I would build or have built a custom frame if I was starting a new build. I ended up buying a welder so I could get what I wanted done to the trailer as 2 different welders failed to fabricate what I ask them to instead I guess they thought they knew what I wanted more than I did. Just got tired of paying for and grinding off useless steel. It is really easy to have more money in a commercial prebuilt than a custom trailer. I'm sure I could have bought a custom cheaper.
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:26 am

My trailer is based on an ENTIRELY STOCK Harbor Freight 1720# 4x8 trailer kit. I didn't move or upgrade the axle. The only mod that I am planning, is to extend the tongue using tube steel - not for strength, but just to be able to move my tongue jack forward and away from my tongue box.

1 1/2 years and about 2500 miles later, no problems for me! Even tows fine around 75mph (not that you should).

FWIW... the tongue mod (on HF trailer) is going to cost around $40.

Good luck with your decisions! :thumbsup:
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:43 am

$850 for a frame :shock:

Chubby's was $75.00 of of Ebay

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A mashed HF frame was replaced with a couple dock handrails. I reused the undamaged tongue and axle cradel !

3500 Miles later its still rolling along!

OK I did spend an additional $95.00 to reinforce the tongue and add a rear receiver. $50.00 to my welder buddy and the rest for the steel.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:12 am

This was a used Namco 5x8 I picked up for $250.

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Spent about 12 minutes with a saws-all removing the side rails to make a flat bed. Spent abou 13 cents on fresh grease for the bearings after cleaning and inspecting them. It is still rolling too.

Point is there are unlove and unwanted/no longer needed trailers everywhere. Drive down the alleyways and just look. It costs nothing to walk up and ask if its for sale. I have 4 builds in my stable and have exactly $624.00 total in all 4 frames. I also have an 8x20 flatbed and an 8x24 mashed up camper at work in the back lot and have $275.00 in both of those. Ebay craigslist and local classified ads are good sources also.

But ya know what ~~~ it is a great feeling when you ask about a trailer and the owner says "just take the damn thing it in my way" Thats what happened with the big mashed camper and it was 2 block from my work. :D
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Postby Oldragbaggers » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:34 am

Thanks so much everyone for taking the time to answer and share your experience, and for all the good suggestions and words of wisdom.

Becky
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Postby Sam I am » Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:10 pm

Becky, I used a Red Trailers 5'x8' frame unmodified, including leaving the axle in the factory position, and it works fine. However, my tear has no galley cabinets, just a counter top. The galley bulkhead has a trap door in it to remove the double bed mattress we use, and cabinets would interfere. I also have a tongue box where I carry stabilizing jacks, wheel chocks, firewood, etc. so the center of gravity is just right for the axle position. I designed it this way to avoid modifying the frame. We've used it for 5 years with no problems.
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Postby dh » Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:32 pm

Ok, I'll be the one to ask it, you can't find a welder who can build a frame any closer to you than 10 hours away? I've built several bare bones trailers, no lights, no paint, no fenders all for people who want to finish them themselves and save some cash, or build something else on top of them. I purchased a set of magnetic tow lights so they can get them home. They mail them back to me and I send thier deposit check back to them.
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