Can you open your upper galley cabinets?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby planovet » Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:53 pm

terryjones1 wrote:Did you make your cabinet doors?
If not, where did you get them?


Yes, I made them myself from red oak stock.

This project was the first time I had ever built cabinets. I did them in 3 stages...bulkhead cabinets were first, then back interior cabinets and then galley cabinets.
I got better with each try. :)
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Postby BillZ » Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:57 pm

CAJUN LADY wrote:
BillZ wrote:My cabinet doors are about 6-8" above the counter. Haven't noticed much of a problem with them getting in the way. The side tables help. They usually have the big stuff like the stove and water carrier on them. the counter is used mainly for prep.

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This beautiful Teardrop looks familiar....did you build this or buy it from Barb?


I bought it from Barb last March. My wife and I have used it 3 times now.
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Postby azmotoman » Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:17 am

From what we have witnessed at gatherings and how we use ours, most people use the cabinets more for storage and do their prep/cooking on a table outside the galley. Our cabinets are slightly raised and would clear a low profile item if opened, but we still use a table for the majority of prep/cooking space.

Once you actually start using it, you will realize what I mean. Keep the galley area as clear from clutter as possible. Use a table (small folding, roll-up aluminum or even a piece of plywood an a couple of chairs) and continue using the cabinets to store what you brought along for the convenience.

You can easily fashion extension tables to attach near the edge of your counter space and create that much needed area. You are only limited by your imagination and, sometimes, your budget.

Good luck to you.

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Postby bobhenry » Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:49 am

10' of counter space and we use it all.

The 5'4 main counter IS the door when it lifts up and locks.

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Postby eveningprimrose » Fri Aug 19, 2011 12:07 pm

nevadatear wrote:Vacations in a can went with roll top desktype, which I really like.

I really like that roll top desk type, too!

The cabinet door issue was a problem in our Little Guy, too. As you can see in the picture below, we took off the original doors (and stored them). My husband made fake doors, which I painted with chalkboard paint and then made the doors look like a chalkboard menu. So, we don't want the doors hidden by counter top stuff, anyway...and we never store kitchen things in there (it is the same cabinet that's in the bed part so we use it only from that side). I bought those stacking boxes and that little wood cabinet, for storage. My husband also built a footboard that included cubby holes for stashing items. That area used to be open and you could see the foot of the bed, and bugs would fly inside the camper. Eventually, he's going to add a lid on top of that footboard storage, but I don't know when that's going to happen.

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Postby CarlLaFong » Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:31 pm

I will use tambours in mine just because they're cool and fun to build. You do loose a bit of shelf depth, but you can keep it to about 3/4" without any difficulty. Amana has a bit set that eliminates gluing the slats to the usual canvas backing, or they can be done the traditional way with no special tooling. http://www.amanatool.com/tambour/
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Postby RandomAbstract » Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:53 pm

CarlLaFong wrote:I will use tambours in mine just because they're cool and fun to build. You do loose a bit of shelf depth, but you can keep it to about 3/4" without any difficulty. Amana has a bit set that eliminates gluing the slats to the usual canvas backing, or they can be done the traditional way with no special tooling. http://www.amanatool.com/tambour/


I like the bit set! They say that it will do a 3-1/2" radius corner. Seems kind of tight by looking at the profile. I hope it is true.

Have you tried the bits yet?
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Postby CarlLaFong » Sat Aug 20, 2011 1:38 am

RandomAbstract wrote:
CarlLaFong wrote:I will use tambours in mine just because they're cool and fun to build. You do loose a bit of shelf depth, but you can keep it to about 3/4" without any difficulty. Amana has a bit set that eliminates gluing the slats to the usual canvas backing, or they can be done the traditional way with no special tooling. http://www.amanatool.com/tambour/


I like the bit set! They say that it will do a 3-1/2" radius corner. Seems kind of tight by looking at the profile. I hope it is true.

Have you tried the bits yet?

No, not yet. I saw them demonstrated at a trade show and they seem to work as advertised. I will probably get a set soon for a small roll top recessed wall desk that I am building for our house. 3 1/2 does seem a bit tight, but I have hundreds of dollars worth of Amana bits and have no issues with any of them. there is a demo on Utube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JrKoMIb ... r_embedded
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Postby bdosborn » Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:40 am

That was one thing I would have changed on the tear, no drawers or cabinet doors above the counter. I got sick of moving everything around to open them.

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Postby Steve_Cox » Sat Aug 20, 2011 10:11 am

These sliding doors were glass cutting boards.

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Postby Shadow Catcher » Sat Aug 20, 2011 3:26 pm

One of the advantages of a grasshopper design is less slope and more upper cabinet. Ours open up and the sink is below.
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Postby eveningprimrose » Sat Aug 20, 2011 5:34 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:One of the advantages of a grasshopper design is less slope and more upper cabinet. Ours open up and the sink is below.
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Postby luluxiu » Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:14 pm

12 wiring panel on the right side of the kitchen there is a hinged door, because I only open it shows the connection settings, I usually just move the coffee pot on.
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