Iron on edge band, alternative to door edge molding?

[Robbie]

So I just priced out how I want to do my door hinges, edge trim, seal, etc. and its more than I thought it would be. I'm trying to keep my build on a budget so $70+ dollars of edge trim doesn't sound that great. My walls and doors are 3/4" plywood. I was wondering if I had all the edges of the doors edge banded here at my work with, I don't know, a maple edge band for example and then hit the entire door with CPES and then primed with Kilz and painted would that provide a proper seal on the plywood edges from water and moisture? I would use the iron on edge banding for the opening and then finish the walls the same way. I'm just looking for a cheaper alternative to finish out the edges around the door/opening.

Robbie

[aggie79]

I think you'll need a little more "meat" than the iron on edge banding. I would make a strip 1/8-1/4" thick by the width of the plywood and glue it in place.

I've seen some of your other threads, but can't recall how you intend to seal our doors. Aluminum t-molding allows you to use an outside seal. You can put an inside flange/door stop around your door opening and seal to it instead of the t-molding.

BTW - I don't mean to stir up the CPES versus epoxy debate, but if you're teardrop is going to be a woody, then I would use epoxy instead of CPES. My teardrop is not a woody, but I used both products on mine. CPES will take a lot of coats to fill the bores and get buildup which can be expensive.

Personally, I think using both is probably the ultimate. I used a coat or two of CPES on the bottom of my floor and sidewalls. After a month or so, to allow all of the CPES solvents to dissipate, I followed the CPES with a coat or two of epoxy.

Take care,
Tom

[Breezy13]

I really like the RAKA epoxy, two coats on my walls and they look like glass!! Tough as crap too, dropped the wall on some pavement and didn't make much of a mark.

Breezy

[Robbie]

To seal my doors I was gonna make a door stop from solid wood (maple or something) and then use a EPDM seal from lowes to seal against the door. I have a cross section drawn in cad posted in my album. A solid edge would be just as easy as getting tape on there. Maybe 1/8" solid maple edge all around the door and tape in the opening? I thought the tape alone would be a good edge cap under the CPES as the glue will fill into the edge of the plywood and then the CPES would seal up the now smoother edge tape. Maybe I'm just thinking it will work to save some money. I don't plan to finish it as a woody though. Once I apply a few coats of the CPES I will do a few coats of the Kilz exterior primer and then a few coats of an exterior grade paint.

[aggie79]

Robbie,

To seal my doors I was gonna make a door stop from solid wood (maple or something) and then use a EPDM seal from lowes to seal against the door. I have a cross section drawn in cad posted in my album.

Oops. I guess I should have looked in your album. I did almost the same method on my build.



(Nice CAD work BTW. Are you set up to do CAD work on fee basis for someone else? I may have a need for build #2 so that I can get a local sign shop to do some CNC work for me.)

A solid edge would be just as easy as getting tape on there. Maybe 1/8" solid maple edge all around the door and tape in the opening? I thought the tape alone would be a good edge cap under the CPES as the glue will fill into the edge of the plywood and then the CPES would seal up the now smoother edge tape.

You probably have access to better edge banding than I do. I suggested a hardwood band because the edgebanding I used before didn't stick real well. And, as thin as it is, I was thinking that the sovents in CPES may penetrate to the banding. Sounds like will be using quality plywood, so I'm not sure that banding of any kind would be necessary.

Take care,
Tom

[Robbie]

Hey Tom,

I am an architectural draftsman by profession so all of my CAD work was done on my work computer with AutoCAD 2006. We use Inventor 2011 and AutoCAD 2011 as well. I can certainly help you out with any CAD needs you have! Just let me know what it is with a sketch or something and I'm sure I could get it done for ya. Once I rebuild my home computer I will have these programs at home also.

The plywood is AC Fir Plywood from Sierra Wood Products here in Salt Lake. Not sure how their quality is compared to the box stores but we do multi-million dollar jobs mostly so I'd assume its pretty good quality, or at least I hope it is! The edge banding we use is hardwood and is great stuff. Not like the super thin stuff at the big box stores. That's a good point about the CPES soaking into the edge banding and deteriorating the glue. I'll go talk to our finish department and see if they can answer that one for me. The solid 1/8" edge on the door will help against dings too so I'm pretty sold on that.