trailer frame tips

[gene so]

Hello,

I have decided to build my own teardrop based on a trailer I built in 1990 and towed behind a Toyota Tercel witha very small engine. The frame consisted of 2 x 2 by 1/8" thick steel tubing and was extremely strong and light.

I wish to use the same style of metal and wish to use it to gain some advantage ove the standard frames available from Harbor Freight etc. I could use insight since I have not built one of these for camping. Is there a dropped axle/ spring combination out there I could use for this frame assembly? I wish to drop the body to gain height without increasing wind resistance. With a dropped axle I could gain the advantage of a larger tire, axle/ bearing assembly and eliminate one vexxing problem. A gooseneck hitch and dropped axle would seem to be indicated to get the body 6 to 8 inches lower with still adequate ground clearance.

I also wish to make the body wider so the wheels can be enclosed by the skin and cut down on drag . Thus by widening the body style and lowering it I should be better able to utilize the square footage to be gained in this 5 x 8 design, which will use nylon/velcro material extensions to cut down the wind when we are stopped and using the kitchen.

I could use any advice from any seasoned veteran as to frame componentry, axles, wheels, wiring and storage opportunities for the extra space.

Thanks in advance

Gene So

[angib]

From the way you say dropped axle and springs, I assume you want a beam axle. If so, all but the smallest sizes are available with drop - probably the most common is the Dexter number 9:
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/6-8 ... _12-10.pdf

But if you are trying to save space, you might be better off with a rubber torsion axle - see the same link for Dexter's torsion axle.

To get a low riding trailer, you might want to have adjustable ride height so that you don't have to order the axle with a fixed ride height before you know how heavy your trailer will end up. If so, Flexiride axles have splined arms so the ride height can be changed:
http://www.trailerpart.com/torsionaxles.htm

A list of Flexiride licensees will show you the nearest builder of Flexiride axles to you:
http://www.ucfamerica.com/LITERATURE/li ... censee.pdf

I think you may need to look at your ideas in more detail, as I don't think all of them will work out as you wish. Moving the wheels inboard on a 5 foot wide design is going to leave you only a bit over 3 feet between the wheel boxes, even if you pick sensible (ie, not 'man'-sized) wheels, and that makes for a narrow bed - if you are going for a low trailer, you can't go over the wheels.

But I think you're right to want to lower the trailer to match the tow vehicle - but not any lower than the tow vehicle.

[doug hodder]

You could also go with 16 ga. 2x tubing...it'll save nearly 1/2 the weight over the .125". I've done a couple using that material in the frame. I do use the .125 on the tongue however. Doug

[CarlLaFong]

You could also go with 16 ga. 2x tubing...it'll save nearly 1/2 the weight over the .125". I've done a couple using that material in the frame. I do use the .125 on the tongue however. Doug

Ditto that.
.125 is big stuff. The frame on my one ton Diesel dually is thinner than that. 14/16 ga is plenty strong for a small trailer

[gene so]

Thanks to everyone who has given me some insight. The axle insight was most illuminating and yes, if the frame/body needs to be wider than 5 feet, it will be made that way! Regarding the thickness of 2 x 2 tubing. The vast majority of this tubing I had ever worked with was 1/4" thick and when I saw 1/8" for the first time It really looked thin to me. I have done some fabricating with 1 inch tubing in the last two years and it must be the 16 gauge thickness both of you gentlemen prefer. It seems amazingly light and strong to me.

Thank YOU,

Gene So