Will I still need a fuse block with a switch panel?

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Will I still need a fuse block with a switch panel?

Postby JoshInReno » Wed Aug 24, 2011 8:42 pm

Looking at something similar (or exactly) like this switch panel to control my electrical:

http://www.seasense.com/products/35/fly ... tails/2526

I noticed to switches come fused and wired. My question is do I still need a fuse block or does a panel like this just have a single power inlet?

I know it's a long shot, but I thought someone here might know. I wish I could get more information on the panel, but so far all I can find is a picture and a price!!
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:20 am

Not all switches are fused, but the panel that you posted does indicate that it has 2 fuses per switch. In that case, I would say that you do not need to have those running to a fuse block.

Thats a pretty sharp switch panel. *bookmarked*

:thumbsup:
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Postby JoshInReno » Thu Aug 25, 2011 11:01 am

absolutsnwbrdr wrote:Not all switches are fused, but the panel that you posted does indicate that it has 2 fuses per switch. In that case, I would say that you do not need to have those running to a fuse block.

Thats a pretty sharp switch panel. *bookmarked*

:thumbsup:


Thank you for your help. I emailed the manufacturer this morning for a diagram.

I have noticed that the electrical I tend to gravitate to is marine based. Heavy duty, weatherproof items that are compact and easy to work with.
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Postby eamarquardt » Thu Aug 25, 2011 11:34 am

If the panel has fuses for each switch, then things wired to the panel will be fused. However, the lead from your battery to the panel will be unprotected. I'd put an fuse at the battery to protect that wire.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

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Postby JoshInReno » Thu Aug 25, 2011 12:19 pm

eamarquardt wrote:If the panel has fuses for each switch, then things wired to the panel will be fused. However, the lead from your battery to the panel will be unprotected. I'd put an fuse at the battery to protect that wire.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus


Thank you - I will be adding a fuse. The question is what amp fuse?
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Postby dh » Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:02 am

You gotta figure your amp draw for each switched circuit, add 'em up to determin your amp draw for the switch board. Add a little wiggle room and size the input wire and fuse accordingly.
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Postby GuitarPhotog » Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:25 pm

slowcowboy wrote:hate to say it but i am operating pure simple. I have no fuses on my teardrop.

it just not nessary on something so simple as a teardrop.

slow


Not necessary until you have a short circuit, then a fuse or circuit breaker just might save your scrawny cowboy butt from cooking in the burning trailer.

But it's your butt....

Me, I have a full compliment of circuit breakers on the 120VAC side and fuses on the 12VDC side.

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Postby dh » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:25 pm

GuitarPhotog wrote:
slowcowboy wrote:hate to say it but i am operating pure simple. I have no fuses on my teardrop.

it just not nessary on something so simple as a teardrop.

slow


Not necessary until you have a short circuit, then a fuse or circuit breaker just might save your scrawny cowboy butt from cooking in the burning trailer.

But it's your butt....

Me, I have a full compliment of circuit breakers on the 120VAC side and fuses on the 12VDC side.

<Chas>


It isn't just his butt, but could be that of anybody camped near by. This coupled with his putting propane through tractor hydraulic hoses could take out the entire camp ground.
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Postby Wobbly Wheels » Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:59 pm

Just figured I'd add a resource here for calculating wire and fuse sizes.
I keep a couple of these charts taped to my clipboard at work - handy stuff and more convenient than printing out the full ABYC ones.

http://bluesea.com/resources/7

Their toggle breakers are commonly used as switches on boats because they are rated to something like 10,000 cycles.
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