Will a concrete floor "Kill" your tires?

[LarryJ]

From Bridgestone site - pretty much the same answer from any tire mfg.

Dear Tire Doctor,

Can storing a vehicle on concrete effect the tires? Should I put barriers like plastic or other non-porous material under the tires? How about the effects of continuous storage for several days at a time with use between storage periods?

Thanks for your help on this subject.

Best Regards, Len


Dear Len,

Thank you for contacting Bridgestone and allowing us to assist you.

First of all, regarding the effects of storage:

A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is.

We would recommend the following steps in storing a vehicle:

1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to compound characteristics.

2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water.

3. Place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface.

4. Cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays.

5. Do not store the vehicle in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate oxidation of the rubber.

6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air.

7. When the vehicle is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operation.

Now, about the effects of time:

Yes, rubber compound does slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as it ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be:

1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration.

2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage.

3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone.

Best regards, Tire Doctor

[CarlLaFong]

I have lived in houses for over 40 years that are/were built on concrete slabs. So far, so good. My shop was built 25 years ago on a slab. Everything in it is still AOK, minus ordinary wear and tear. Floor mounted machines, lathe, mill, drill presses, etc., etc. show no rust, corrosion or damage as a result of sitting on concrete. Some of these items were moved into the shop when the slab was just a few months old. Both chainsaws are good to go. Many shops have rubber, interlocking mat systems for the floors to help with operator fatigue. They don't crack and dry rot. I've seen some that have been down for years and are still pliable. These stories are anecdotal and drawn from irrational conclusions, such as, "I have worn boxers for 63 years. My hair slowly turned gray. Therefore, boxers will make your hair turn gray."
BTW, does anyone want a radial arm saw? See my ad in the for sale section. I need to get it out of my way. I'm going to put it out at the curb next week

[vreihen]

You can buy Unozonium on ebay...That will fix that nasty concrete induced dryrot!

You can buy jack stands at the nearest Wal-Mart.....

[caseydog]

From Bridgestone site - pretty much the same answer from any tire mfg.

Dear Tire Doctor,

Can storing a vehicle on concrete effect the tires? Should I put barriers like plastic or other non-porous material under the tires? How about the effects of continuous storage for several days at a time with use between storage periods?

Thanks for your help on this subject.

Best Regards, Len


Dear Len,

Thank you for contacting Bridgestone and allowing us to assist you.

First of all, regarding the effects of storage:

A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is.

We would recommend the following steps in storing a vehicle:

1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to compound characteristics.

2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water.

3. Place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface.

4. Cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays.

5. Do not store the vehicle in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate oxidation of the rubber.

6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air.

7. When the vehicle is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operation.

Now, about the effects of time:

Yes, rubber compound does slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as it ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be:

1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration.

2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage.

3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone.

Best regards, Tire Doctor

This has been my experience with dozens of car collectors. The biggest risk in long term storage is flat spotting. I've driven old cars with this problem. Dry rotting can happen, no matter how you store the car.

On a teardrop like mine, that only weighs about 700 pounds, flat spotting is not an issue. The tires just don't deform enough.

Besides, if you store a car for a long time, and never drive it, the tires are the least of your worries.

CD

[doug hodder]

If you get enough overspray on the floor....the tires never touch the concrete....I'm working on that theory. Doug

[48Rob]

My shop was built 25 years ago on a slab. Everything in it is still AOK, minus ordinary wear and tear. Floor mounted machines, lathe, mill, drill presses, etc., etc. show no rust, corrosion or damage as a result of sitting on concrete.

Carl,

You're a fortunate man!

Here in the Midwest, the soil doesn't drain as well as other parts of the country, and will wick up moisture to any expensive power tool bolted to the floor

We use plastic under all concrete that will be enclosed, which corrects the problem.

For those who do not, moisture is a real issue.

Rob

[caseydog]

My shop was built 25 years ago on a slab. Everything in it is still AOK, minus ordinary wear and tear. Floor mounted machines, lathe, mill, drill presses, etc., etc. show no rust, corrosion or damage as a result of sitting on concrete.

Carl,

You're a fortunate man!

Here in the Midwest, the soil doesn't drain as well as other parts of the country, and will wick up moisture to any expensive power tool bolted to the floor

We use plastic under all concrete that will be enclosed, which corrects the problem.

For those who do not, moisture is a real issue.

Rob

Plastic under slabs is code, here. And, all bottom plates of walls have to be pressure-treated lumber.

But, that shouldn't effect tires.

CD

[46Kit]

These stories are anecdotal and drawn from irrational conclusions, such as, "I have worn boxers for 63 years. My hair slowly turned gray. Therefore, boxers will make your hair turn gray."

And most of all because we know that everything we read on inner-web forums is the absolute truth!

Fact is that tires begin to deteriorate pretty much as soon as they come out of the mold. I don't like to run tires on my motorcycles that are more than 3 years out of the mold and most tire manufacturers will tell you that you need to replace your skins at least every 5 years whether they are worn out or not. Since Y2k all DOT approved tires have a 4 digit code on the sidewall (usually in proximity to the DOT mark) stating the week and year of manufacture. If your tire has a 3 digit code it is older than Y2k and first 2 digits represent week, the last year, decade is your guess...

At any rate, point is that in addition to being subject to tread wear tires are also perishable and folks should pay a little more attention to their condition.

Regards-HW

[chartle]

In all the discussions I haven't heard this tip.

If you you are going to store a vehicle with tires you should put it on jack stands which makes it easy for a TD if it has jacks already built in.

[campmaster-k]

Its all about the moisture and ph level of the concrete. Get a ph test kit at any hardware store and you will know if you have evil concrete. The ph level of concrete is high when it is new and slowly dissipates as it ages. UNLESS it wicks water up from alkaline rich soil with no barrier.

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

Ok…this is going down hill really fast…

Down here in the south, when we pour concrete, we roll out 6 mil polyethylene, over a good foundation layer of 60/40 sand/clay. The plastic serves one purpose, PERIOD…to keep the water in the concrete from being wicked into the ground for about 12 hours, until the slab sets…otherwise, the concrete begins to cure too fast, and will crumble under load stress.

So…what the heck kind of plastic is everyone using under their concrete for a long term MOISTURE BARRIER? Must be some kind of SUPER plastic if it will last for the useable lifetime of the slab. I’ve been in the plastics manufacturing business for over 30 years, and I gotta know who makes this stuff.

[48Rob]

So…what the heck kind of plastic is everyone using under their concrete for a long term MOISTURE BARRIER? Must be some kind of SUPER plastic if it will last for the useable lifetime of the slab. I’ve been in the plastics manufacturing business for over 30 years, and I gotta know who makes this stuff.

...So what is it you're trying to say?

Plastic in the ground, away from sunlight won't last a long, long time?

Do you have information or statistics from your career that shows plastic won't last?
Is there something you know of that is better suited to the purpose?
If there is something better, I'd be very interested as we want to give our customers the best product available.

Thank you.

Rob

[Pottercounty]

Seriously?.....

[DrCrash]

Giggles and scratches noggin. Seriously?

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

Sorry…I didn’t mean to come across that way.

*looks for a rock to crawl under, hoping there aren’t any spiders under there*

OK…I agree…polyethylene plastic under a concrete slab works perfectly…for the cost, there is nothing on the market that can touch it, and if you don’t use it, you’re asking for real trouble.

What I was saying is, the plastic does not physically PROVIDE the moisture barrier, but rather indirectly CAUSES (or allows) it to occur.

This, of course, has nothing whatsoever to do with the wearing of boxers, the deterioration of tires, or S P I D E R S…sorry again.